http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=BupsterAllotments4All - User contributions [en-gb]2026-04-06T03:55:44ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.22.0http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/ChicoryChicory2006-03-03T09:18:40Z<p>Bupster: </p>
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From Wikibooks, the open-content textbooks collection<br />
<br />
CHICORY is grown for two purposes,--for the roots and for the herbage. "Barbe de capucin" is a salad made from young shoots of chicory.<br />
<br />
The Magdeburg chicory is the variety usually spoken of, it being the one most extensively grown. The roots of this, after being ground and roasted, are used either as a substitute or an adulterant for coffee.<br />
<br />
The Witloof, a form of chicory, is used as a salad, or boiled and served in the same manner as cauliflower. The plants should be thinned to 6 inches. In the latter part of summer they should be banked up like celery, and the leaves used after becoming white and tender. This and the common wild chicory are often dug in the fall, the leaves cut off, the roots packed in sand in a cellar and watered until a new growth of leaves starts. These leaves grow rapidly and are very tender, making a fine salad vegetable. One packet of seed of the Witloof will furnish plants enough for a large family.<br />
<br />
Retrieved from "http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Gardening:Chicory"<br />
This book is a modified version of the Manual of Gardening (Second Edition) by L. H. Bailey (1910)</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/ChicoryChicory2006-03-03T09:17:17Z<p>Bupster: </p>
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<div>[Main Menu]<br />
<br />
From Wikibooks, the open-content textbooks collection<br />
<br />
CHICORY is grown for two purposes,--for the roots and for the herbage. "Barbe de capucin" is a salad made from young shoots of chicory.<br />
<br />
The Magdeburg chicory is the variety usually spoken of, it being the one most extensively grown. The roots of this, after being ground and roasted, are used either as a substitute or an adulterant for coffee.<br />
<br />
The Witloof, a form of chicory, is used as a salad, or boiled and served in the same manner as cauliflower. The plants should be thinned to 6 inches. In the latter part of summer they should be banked up like celery, and the leaves used after becoming white and tender. This and the common wild chicory are often dug in the fall, the leaves cut off, the roots packed in sand in a cellar and watered until a new growth of leaves starts. These leaves grow rapidly and are very tender, making a fine salad vegetable. One packet of seed of the Witloof will furnish plants enough for a large family.<br />
<br />
Retrieved from "http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Gardening:Chicory"<br />
This book is a modified version of the Manual of Gardening (Second Edition) by L. H. Bailey (1910)</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/CompostCompost2006-01-31T21:30:43Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is the stub of an article on compost. I'm sure there's a lot more can be said - Ceratonia.<br />
<br />
'''Why Compost?'''<br />
<br />
Incorporating compost into your soil improves the soil structure - addition of organic matter improves drainage, water holding capacity and aeration. It also provides valuable nutrients. In short, it makes your plants grow better!<br />
<br />
Making your own compost saves money and reduces the amount of waste going to landfill sites. And digging rich, brown, crumbly friable compost out of a heap is a very satisfying part of growing stuff.<br />
<br />
'''How do I make compost?'''<br />
<br />
In essence, you make a big heap of compostable material and wait. The actual decomposition is done by a wide variety of earthworms, fungi, bacteria and other small creatures. The time to produce useable compost could be as short as two months, or as long as two years.<br />
<br />
You can shorten the waiting time and improve the quality of the final product by paying attention to the balance of materials in the heap, by ensuring the correct amounts of water and air reach the decomposing material, by raising the temperature of the heap and by regular mixing. <br />
<br />
Water is required for composting - very dry matter will take a long time to rot. On the other hand, too much water will stop the heap getting hot and wash away nutrients. Air is also required - this can be a problem if the heap becomes compressed, with no bulky material (eg all grass cuttings). Anaerobic decomposition is the result - the heap gets slimy and smelly.<br />
<br />
Mixing simply means that the heap typically has to be turned once or twice. Having multiple compost bins may make this easier. <br />
<br />
Shredding the material before it goes on the heap makes a big difference to decomposition times - it gives more surface area to the bacteria, better aeration and better mixing.<br />
<br />
'''What can be composted?'''<br />
<br />
Plant material - fallen [[leaves]], [[weeds]], prunings, [[grass cuttings]], [[manure]], straw and hay, newspaper, cardboard, vegetable and fruit scraps, tea bags etc. Avoid meat, fish, cooked food, dog and cat "manure", glossy paper, ash from coal fires. Some materials (eg tree branches/twigs & other woody plants) may take a long time to decompose and may not be worth composting.<br />
<br />
You should also avoid composting diseased plant material. The hot temperature of the heap will kill certain problems, but others (eg [[clubroot]], [[white rot]]) may survive. Similarly, it is often sensible to avoid composting weeds with seedheads or perennial weeds such as [[bindweed]] or [[ground elder]]. Again, a hot heap will sterilise these problems, but a colder heap may not. Eucalyptus leaves should not be composted, as they can be toxic to other plants. Holly leaves take for ever to decompose.<br />
<br />
Better results are obtained by ensuring a balamnce between 'brown' (eg fallen leaves) and 'green' material (eg grass cuttings). This relates to the ratio of carbon to nitrogen in the heap.<br />
<br />
'''Compost bins'''<br />
<br />
These can be the green daleks that many councils give away or sell cheaply. Or a wooden bin, made of old pallets. In general, the bigger the heap, the hotter it will get and the better the decomposition process. <br />
<br />
'''How to use compost'''<br />
<br />
Use it as a mulch, or dig it in!<br />
<br />
'''Compost Tea'''<br />
<br />
It's liquid compost. Take your compost, add water, strain and use as a liquid feed<br />
<br />
'''Composting with worms'''<br />
<br />
This is a special method, used to produce wormcasts from food scraps. Very different from normal outdoor composting.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Spuds.jpgFile:Spuds.jpg2006-01-27T23:17:29Z<p>Bupster: Potatoes from Wikipedia Commons</p>
<hr />
<div>Potatoes from Wikipedia Commons</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/PotatoPotato2006-01-27T23:16:56Z<p>Bupster: </p>
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Back to [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
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<br />
[[Image:Spuds.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
This was copied from the Thomas & Morgan (seed merchants) web site. Public domain.<br />
<br />
CHITTING (Sprouting) PROCESS <br />
It is very important that your tubers are kept in a frost free area. Remove them immediately from their nets, spread them out in a cool, well ventilated place prior to sprouting (called 'chitting'). <br />
All seed potatoes, particularly Earliest and Second Earlies, can benefit from 'chitting' and the formation of strong 'chits' over several weeks gives faster growth when planted out and heavier crops. Use seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons to 'chit' your potatoes.You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Keep in a cool, but frost free place in natural light. Sturdy 'chits' will form which should attain 25mm (1 in.) in length.<br />
<br />
PLANTING<br />
Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost (do not use fresh compost to minimise keeled slug problems) and do not lime the soil to minimise scab blemishes on developing tubers. <br />
Planting times are not critical and are dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide. Use our specially blended, high potash Potato Fertiliser when planting.<br />
<br />
POTATO FERTILISER<br />
Concerning application of the 3kg bag of pelleted, high potash fertiliser.<br />
This should be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of persona] choice, and to a certain extent depends on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.<br />
<br />
AFTERCARE <br />
Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay production severely. First and Second Earlies particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.<br />
<br />
HARVESTING <br />
Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when plants commence flowering, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting. As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.<br />
<br />
SECOND CROPPING POTATOES<br />
Given the UK climate, we would recommend planting our 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest we would recommend planting tubers outside is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting. There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to II weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time.The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they would be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.<br />
<br />
STORING<br />
For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will 'sweat' and rot.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/PotatoPotato2006-01-27T23:15:55Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
Back to [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Spuds.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
This was copied from the Thomas & Morgan (seed merchants) web site. Public domain.<br />
<br />
===CHITTING (Sprouting) PROCESS ===<br />
It is very important that your tubers are kept in a frost free area. Remove them immediately from their nets, spread them out in a cool, well ventilated place prior to sprouting (called 'chitting'). <br />
All seed potatoes, particularly Earliest and Second Earlies, can benefit from 'chitting' and the formation of strong 'chits' over several weeks gives faster growth when planted out and heavier crops. Use seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons to 'chit' your potatoes.You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Keep in a cool, but frost free place in natural light. Sturdy 'chits' will form which should attain 25mm (1 in.) in length.<br />
<br />
===PLANTING ===<br />
Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost (do not use fresh compost to minimise keeled slug problems) and do not lime the soil to minimise scab blemishes on developing tubers. <br />
Planting times are not critical and are dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide. Use our specially blended, high potash Potato Fertiliser when planting.<br />
<br />
===POTATO FERTILISER ===<br />
Concerning application of the 3kg bag of pelleted, high potash fertiliser.<br />
This should be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of persona] choice, and to a certain extent depends on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.<br />
<br />
===AFTERCARE ===<br />
Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay production severely. First and Second Earlies particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.<br />
<br />
===HARVESTING ===<br />
Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when plants commence flowering, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting. As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.<br />
<br />
===SECOND CROPPING POTATOES ===<br />
Given the UK climate, we would recommend planting our 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest we would recommend planting tubers outside is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting. There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to II weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time.The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they would be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.<br />
<br />
===STORING=== <br />
For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will 'sweat' and rot.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Talk:Rutabaga_-_SwedeTalk:Rutabaga - Swede2006-01-27T23:11:37Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>Mikeb, just added pretty picture and some formatting. Nice one!</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Rutabaga_-_SwedeRutabaga - Swede2006-01-27T23:10:41Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
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Back to [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===How To Grow Swede/Rutabaga===<br />
<br />
Growing Swedes<br />
<br />
Swede is one of the hardiest vegetable, and one of their great attractions is their ability to do well without much attention. It can be left in the ground throughout the winter and will still be tasty even if it has been frozen in the ground for weeks. <br />
<br />
Swede is a cousin of the true turnip which originally came from Sweden, and its name is an abbreviation of Swedish turnip. The crop is grown for its large yellow fleshed roots, which are hardier, sweeter and milder than turnips, and rarely get woody. One of he main differences between swedes and turnips is that swedes are used in winter, whilst turnips are harvested in summer and autumn. <br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Swede.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===SWEDE QUICK GUIDE===<br />
<br />
Latin Name<br />
Brassica napus napobrassica <br />
<br />
Type<br />
Hardy Biennial<br />
<br />
Sowing to Harvest Time<br />
20-24 weeks<br />
<br />
How Many?<br />
0.5-1kg (1-21/4 lb) per root <br />
<br />
Size<br />
7.5-17.5 cm (3-7 in) in diameter, 12.5-17.5 cm (5-7 in) long <br />
<br />
The growing season of the swede is much longer that that of the turnip. Growing a combination of the two vegetables will give you a long season of use. Although the crop is grown mainly for it's edible roots, you can leave the crop in the ground and it will produce pale green leaves in the spring which can be cooked and used as greens. Swedes are divided into three groups according to the colour of the upper part of the root. The purple tops, the bronze tops and the green tops. The green variety are slower to mature that the purple sort, which are much freer growing and the heaviest croppers. The bronze variety are intermediate in habit between the two other types. <br />
<br />
Where To Grow Your Swedes in the UK<br />
Swedes grow best on fertile medium soil, although with proper soil preparation the will grow well on a wide variety of soils, from light sandy loams to medium clay. Swedes like other members of the brassica family are subject to club root disease. Club root thrives in acid soil so make sure that your soil is between pH 7.0 and 7.3. Provided the soil was well matured for the previous crop, there should be sufficient organic matter for the swede crop. If the soil was not previously manured, dig in well rotted manure or compost at the rate of one barrow load to 11 sq m (12 sq yd). <br />
<br />
Do not apply fresh manure or compost to the ground before sowing swede, this will only result in watery, mis-shapen roots. When preparing the ground, make sure you get rid of all weeds, particularly the perennial ones, such as couch grass and thistles. If you live in an area of high rainfall it is best to grow swedes on a ridge. It is hard to define high rainfall but if you get more that 60 cm (24 in) of rain per year you would do better to grow the crop on ridges. <br />
<br />
Make the ridges 15 -20 cm (6-8 in) high, and between 60-67 cm (24-27 in) from centre to centre. Ridges are better drained in winter when the ground tends to become water-logged. Fine soil will gradually fall down to the bottom of the trench between the ridges and the roots will grow through into this. In lower rainfall areas grow swedes on the flat as ridges would tend to dry out in the summer. For the same reason do not make ridges if your soil is very sandy or free draining. Firm the ground before sowing whether on ridges or on the flat. Do not attempt to firm the ground if it is too wet or the soil will become compacted and lose its friable quality<br />
<br />
Sowing Swedes<br />
The time for sowing swede varies according to local conditions. In Britain sowing should take place in late spring in the north, early summer in the Midlands and mid summer in the south and south east. The temperature required for germination is over 7 degrees C (45 degrees F) and less that 37 degrees C (97 degrees F). By sowing late in the season in warmer areas, the plants will be less subject to the worst summer heat, drought and mildews. A last summer sowing will produce greens for use in the following spring. <br />
<br />
If you grow swede on ridges sow the seed as soon as possible after the ridges are prepared. If the soil is dry water the drills right before sowing. The rows should be about 67 cm (37 in) apart and the rows on the flat should be 45 cm (18 in) apart. Sow the seeds thinly at a depth of 2 cm (3/4 in) on light soils or 1.25 cm (1/2 in) on heavier ground. <br />
<br />
Care of Swedes<br />
The seeds take between seven and twelve days to geminate. Thinning the seeds takes place about three weeks after sowing, when the seedlings are at the rough leaf stage. Don' try and transplant the thinnings as these will not grow once they have been disturbed. The final spacing of the young plants should be 25-30 cm (10-12 in) apart in the rows. Water the young plants will until they become established. Cultivate the ground to kill the weeds but be careful not to damage the young swede roots. Also do not hoe too deeply just lightly loosen the soil surface, this will create a dust mulch which helps to conserve the moisture below. If the weather is dry, mulch with dry peat, working it up and over any protruding roots. <br />
<br />
Harvest Swede<br />
Although swedes may be large enough to use in early autumn they are often left in the ground until all the summer vegetables have been harvested and a frost has set in. They can be pulled as required throughout the winter as long as the ground is soft enough to dig. A touch of frost improves the flavour of swedes. Over wintering the roots leaves them open for attack by rabbits and pigeons, make sure they are well protected with nets or fencing. Otherwise you can leave them in the ground until the spring, when they will produce leaves which can be cut and used as greens. <br />
<br />
In the south, winters are rarely severe, and you can usually leave the roots in the ground until you are ready to use them. Lift them systematically, do not pull the biggest ones first. You will then have areas of cleared ground to dig over before winter sets in and any swedes left in the ground for spring greens will be grouped together. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
An outdoor crop of spring greens is harvested by cutting off the tufts of leaves at the neck as you require them. If you live in a colder area and have a good supply of roots, you can store them in boxes to ensure that you will have a good supply when the rest of the crop is frozen in the ground. Lifting the crop can begin in the autumn. Choose a day that is mild and gently ease the roots out with a garden fork. If you are going to store them for future use, top and tail them. Removing the leaves and root tails makes them much easier to store, and also helps to prevent rot. <br />
<br />
To store the swede indoors, pack them in layers in a box and cover them with fine sand. They can also be stored loose in a sack. Whichever method you choose make sure they swede is kept cool preferably at a temperature of 0-4 C (32-40 F) Once stored be on the look out for vermin, such as mice or rats. <br />
<br />
<br />
Pests and Diseases <br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
Aphids Curled leaves, twisted stems with colonies of green black or bluish insects on the leaves and stems <br />
Gall Weevil Swellings on upper part of roots containing white maggots <br />
Downy Mildew Greyish white downy patch or leaves turning yellow and wilting <br />
Slugs and Snails Slime trails, holed leaves , stalks and roots <br />
Flea Beetle Small round holes in leaves of seedlings or plants <br />
Wireworms Shiny yellow worms and tunnels in the roots <br />
Club Root Disease Weak sickly plants with swollen balled bad smelling and rotting roots</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Swede.jpgFile:Swede.jpg2006-01-27T23:09:59Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Rutabaga_-_SwedeRutabaga - Swede2006-01-27T23:09:32Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
Back to [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
<br />
How To Grow Swede/Rutabaga<br />
<br />
Growing Swedes<br />
Swede is one of the hardiest vegetable, and one of their great attractions is their ability to do well without much attention. It can be left in the ground throughout the winter and will still be tasty even if it has been frozen in the ground for weeks. <br />
<br />
Swede is a cousin of the true turnip which originally came from Sweden, and its name is an abbreviation of Swedish turnip. The crop is grown for its large yellow fleshed roots, which are hardier, sweeter and milder than turnips, and rarely get woody. One of he main differences between swedes and turnips is that swedes are used in winter, whilst turnips are harvested in summer and autumn. <br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Swede.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===SWEDE QUICK GUIDE===<br />
<br />
Latin Name<br />
Brassica napus napobrassica <br />
<br />
Type<br />
Hardy Biennial<br />
<br />
Sowing to Harvest Time<br />
20-24 weeks<br />
<br />
How Many?<br />
0.5-1kg (1-21/4 lb) per root <br />
<br />
Size<br />
7.5-17.5 cm (3-7 in) in diameter, 12.5-17.5 cm (5-7 in) long <br />
<br />
The growing season of the swede is much longer that that of the turnip. Growing a combination of the two vegetables will give you a long season of use. Although the crop is grown mainly for it's edible roots, you can leave the crop in the ground and it will produce pale green leaves in the spring which can be cooked and used as greens. Swedes are divided into three groups according to the colour of the upper part of the root. The purple tops, the bronze tops and the green tops. The green variety are slower to mature that the purple sort, which are much freer growing and the heaviest croppers. The bronze variety are intermediate in habit between the two other types. <br />
<br />
Where To Grow Your Swedes in the UK<br />
Swedes grow best on fertile medium soil, although with proper soil preparation the will grow well on a wide variety of soils, from light sandy loams to medium clay. Swedes like other members of the brassica family are subject to club root disease. Club root thrives in acid soil so make sure that your soil is between pH 7.0 and 7.3. Provided the soil was well matured for the previous crop, there should be sufficient organic matter for the swede crop. If the soil was not previously manured, dig in well rotted manure or compost at the rate of one barrow load to 11 sq m (12 sq yd). <br />
<br />
Do not apply fresh manure or compost to the ground before sowing swede, this will only result in watery, mis-shapen roots. When preparing the ground, make sure you get rid of all weeds, particularly the perennial ones, such as couch grass and thistles. If you live in an area of high rainfall it is best to grow swedes on a ridge. It is hard to define high rainfall but if you get more that 60 cm (24 in) of rain per year you would do better to grow the crop on ridges. <br />
<br />
Make the ridges 15 -20 cm (6-8 in) high, and between 60-67 cm (24-27 in) from centre to centre. Ridges are better drained in winter when the ground tends to become water-logged. Fine soil will gradually fall down to the bottom of the trench between the ridges and the roots will grow through into this. In lower rainfall areas grow swedes on the flat as ridges would tend to dry out in the summer. For the same reason do not make ridges if your soil is very sandy or free draining. Firm the ground before sowing whether on ridges or on the flat. Do not attempt to firm the ground if it is too wet or the soil will become compacted and lose its friable quality<br />
<br />
Sowing Swedes<br />
The time for sowing swede varies according to local conditions. In Britain sowing should take place in late spring in the north, early summer in the Midlands and mid summer in the south and south east. The temperature required for germination is over 7 degrees C (45 degrees F) and less that 37 degrees C (97 degrees F). By sowing late in the season in warmer areas, the plants will be less subject to the worst summer heat, drought and mildews. A last summer sowing will produce greens for use in the following spring. <br />
<br />
If you grow swede on ridges sow the seed as soon as possible after the ridges are prepared. If the soil is dry water the drills right before sowing. The rows should be about 67 cm (37 in) apart and the rows on the flat should be 45 cm (18 in) apart. Sow the seeds thinly at a depth of 2 cm (3/4 in) on light soils or 1.25 cm (1/2 in) on heavier ground. <br />
<br />
Care of Swedes<br />
The seeds take between seven and twelve days to geminate. Thinning the seeds takes place about three weeks after sowing, when the seedlings are at the rough leaf stage. Don' try and transplant the thinnings as these will not grow once they have been disturbed. The final spacing of the young plants should be 25-30 cm (10-12 in) apart in the rows. Water the young plants will until they become established. Cultivate the ground to kill the weeds but be careful not to damage the young swede roots. Also do not hoe too deeply just lightly loosen the soil surface, this will create a dust mulch which helps to conserve the moisture below. If the weather is dry, mulch with dry peat, working it up and over any protruding roots. <br />
<br />
Harvest Swede<br />
Although swedes may be large enough to use in early autumn they are often left in the ground until all the summer vegetables have been harvested and a frost has set in. They can be pulled as required throughout the winter as long as the ground is soft enough to dig. A touch of frost improves the flavour of swedes. Over wintering the roots leaves them open for attack by rabbits and pigeons, make sure they are well protected with nets or fencing. Otherwise you can leave them in the ground until the spring, when they will produce leaves which can be cut and used as greens. <br />
<br />
In the south, winters are rarely severe, and you can usually leave the roots in the ground until you are ready to use them. Lift them systematically, do not pull the biggest ones first. You will then have areas of cleared ground to dig over before winter sets in and any swedes left in the ground for spring greens will be grouped together. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
An outdoor crop of spring greens is harvested by cutting off the tufts of leaves at the neck as you require them. If you live in a colder area and have a good supply of roots, you can store them in boxes to ensure that you will have a good supply when the rest of the crop is frozen in the ground. Lifting the crop can begin in the autumn. Choose a day that is mild and gently ease the roots out with a garden fork. If you are going to store them for future use, top and tail them. Removing the leaves and root tails makes them much easier to store, and also helps to prevent rot. <br />
<br />
To store the swede indoors, pack them in layers in a box and cover them with fine sand. They can also be stored loose in a sack. Whichever method you choose make sure they swede is kept cool preferably at a temperature of 0-4 C (32-40 F) Once stored be on the look out for vermin, such as mice or rats. <br />
<br />
<br />
Pests and Diseases <br />
<br />
Symptoms<br />
<br />
Aphids Curled leaves, twisted stems with colonies of green black or bluish insects on the leaves and stems <br />
Gall Weevil Swellings on upper part of roots containing white maggots <br />
Downy Mildew Greyish white downy patch or leaves turning yellow and wilting <br />
Slugs and Snails Slime trails, holed leaves , stalks and roots <br />
Flea Beetle Small round holes in leaves of seedlings or plants <br />
Wireworms Shiny yellow worms and tunnels in the roots <br />
Club Root Disease Weak sickly plants with swollen balled bad smelling and rotting roots</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/BroccoliBroccoli2006-01-27T20:16:19Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
<br />
There are two different types of broccoli, [[Purple Sprouting Broccoli]] and [[Calabrese]], which, confusingly, is the stuff you buy at the shop marked "broccoli". Both come from the same family, ''Brassica oleracea'' Italica Group. Like most brassicas they like soil rich in organic matter and must be rotated to avoid disease.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:Broccoli1.png]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===Important Facts about Broccoli===<br />
<br />
In a Halloween episode of The Simpsons, Homer is killed by eating broccoli. When examining the body, Dr. Hibert said that broccoli was one the of deadliest plants, that warned people with its bad taste.<br />
<br />
United States President George Bush (41st) was known to have an active disdain for broccoli, having actually said so in an offhand remark during his presidency. In response, a powerful broccoli agriculture lobby sent several tons of it to the White House.<br />
<br />
Also, in the TV sitcom Seinfeld, Newman refers to broccoli as a "Vile weed!". In the animated series Family Guy's episode "I Never Met the Dead Man", Stewie Griffin invents a weather control device in an attempt to wipe out global production of the vegetable.<br />
<br />
Dana Carvey did a sketch on Saturday Night Live where he sung an entire song about broccoli to Sigourney Weaver. The sketch was a big hit, and the song became quite popular.<br />
<br />
Broccoli even appeared as a contestant on a cartoon game show on an episode of MTV's Liquid Television. The character could only repeat its name, and did so for every answer it gave.<br />
<br />
There is also an episode of The Powerpuff Girls in which a species of aliens called the "Broccoloids" are attempting to take over the Earth. They hypnotise all adults that eat broccoli, thus leaving only the disobedient children to protect the planet. The only way to defeat the Broccoloids, as The Powerpuff Girls and the children of Townsville soon find out, is to eat them all.<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopaedia.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/BroccoliBroccoli2006-01-27T20:15:52Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
<br />
There are two different types of broccoli, [[Purple Sprouting Broccoli]] and [[Calabrese]], which, confusingly, is the stuff you buy at the shop marked "broccoli". Both come from the same family, ''Brassica oleracea'' Italica Group. Like most brassicas they like soil rich in organic matter and must be rotated to avoid disease.<br />
<br />
[[Image:Broccoli1.png]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===Important Facts about Broccoli===<br />
<br />
In a Halloween episode of The Simpsons, Homer is killed by eating broccoli. When examining the body, Dr. Hibert said that broccoli was one the of deadliest plants, that warned people with its bad taste.<br />
<br />
United States President George Bush (41st) was known to have an active disdain for broccoli, having actually said so in an offhand remark during his presidency. In response, a powerful broccoli agriculture lobby sent several tons of it to the White House.<br />
<br />
Also, in the TV sitcom Seinfeld, Newman refers to broccoli as a "Vile weed!". In the animated series Family Guy's episode "I Never Met the Dead Man", Stewie Griffin invents a weather control device in an attempt to wipe out global production of the vegetable.<br />
<br />
Dana Carvey did a sketch on Saturday Night Live where he sung an entire song about broccoli to Sigourney Weaver. The sketch was a big hit, and the song became quite popular.<br />
<br />
Broccoli even appeared as a contestant on a cartoon game show on an episode of MTV's Liquid Television. The character could only repeat its name, and did so for every answer it gave.<br />
<br />
There is also an episode of The Powerpuff Girls in which a species of aliens called the "Broccoloids" are attempting to take over the Earth. They hypnotise all adults that eat broccoli, thus leaving only the disobedient children to protect the planet. The only way to defeat the Broccoloids, as The Powerpuff Girls and the children of Townsville soon find out, is to eat them all.<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopaedia.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T20:12:14Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89.<br />
*[http://www.fothergills.co.uk Mr Fothergill's]<br />
Very wide range of seeds in useful categories.<br />
*[http://www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they receive their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedfest.co.uk/ Roguelands Heirloom Vegetables]<br />
No, I hadn't heard of them either. Heirloom seeds, with a quite extraordinary range of tomatoes. Also grow your own loofah.<br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Romanesco.jpgFile:Romanesco.jpg2006-01-27T20:05:10Z<p>Bupster: Romanesco</p>
<hr />
<div>Romanesco</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Broccoli1.pngFile:Broccoli1.png2006-01-27T20:04:35Z<p>Bupster: Broccoli</p>
<hr />
<div>Broccoli</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/BroccoliBroccoli2006-01-27T19:49:47Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
There are two different types of broccoli, [[Purple Sprouting Broccoli]] and [[Calabrese]], which, confusingly, is the stuff you buy at the shop marked "broccoli". Both come from the same family, ''Brassica oleracea'' Italica Group. Like most brassicas they like soil rich in organic matter and must be rotated to avoid disease.<br />
<br />
===Important Facts about Broccoli===<br />
<br />
In a Halloween episode of The Simpsons, Homer is killed by eating broccoli. When examining the body, Dr. Hibert said that broccoli was one the of deadliest plants, that warned people with its bad taste.<br />
<br />
United States President George Bush (41st) was known to have an active disdain for broccoli, having actually said so in an offhand remark during his presidency. In response, a powerful broccoli agriculture lobby sent several tons of it to the White House.<br />
<br />
Also, in the TV sitcom Seinfeld, Newman refers to broccoli as a "Vile weed!". In the animated series Family Guy's episode "I Never Met the Dead Man", Stewie Griffin invents a weather control device in an attempt to wipe out global production of the vegetable.<br />
<br />
Dana Carvey did a sketch on Saturday Night Live where he sung an entire song about broccoli to Sigourney Weaver. The sketch was a big hit, and the song became quite popular.<br />
<br />
Broccoli even appeared as a contestant on a cartoon game show on an episode of MTV's Liquid Television. The character could only repeat its name, and did so for every answer it gave.<br />
<br />
There is also an episode of The Powerpuff Girls in which a species of aliens called the "Broccoloids" are attempting to take over the Earth. They hypnotise all adults that eat broccoli, thus leaving only the disobedient children to protect the planet. The only way to defeat the Broccoloids, as The Powerpuff Girls and the children of Townsville soon find out, is to eat them all.<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopaedia.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/BroccoliBroccoli2006-01-27T19:49:27Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
There are two different types of broccoli, [[Purple Sprouting Broccoli]] and [[Calabrese]], which, confusingly, is the stuff you buy at the shop marked "broccoli". Both come from the same family, ''Brassica oleracea'' Italica Group. Like most brassicas they like soil rich in organic matter and must be rotated to avoid disease.<br />
<br />
===Important Facts about Broccoli===<br />
<br />
In a Halloween episode of The Simpsons, Homer is killed by eating broccoli. When examining the body, Dr. Hibert said that broccoli was one the of deadliest plants, that warned people with its bad taste.<br />
<br />
United States President George Bush (41st) was known to have an active disdain for broccoli, having actually said so in an offhand remark during his presidency. In response, a powerful broccoli agriculture lobby sent several tons of it to the White House.<br />
<br />
Also, in the TV sitcom Seinfeld, Newman refers to broccoli as a "Vile weed!". In the animated series Family Guy's episode "I Never Met the Dead Man", Stewie Griffin invents a weather control device in an attempt to wipe out global production of the vegetable.<br />
<br />
Dana Carvey did a sketch on Saturday Night Live where he sung an entire song about broccoli to Sigourney Weaver. The sketch was a big hit, and the song became quite popular.<br />
<br />
Broccoli even appeared as a contestant on a cartoon game show on an episode of MTV's Liquid Television. The character could only repeat its name, and did so for every answer it gave.<br />
<br />
There is also an episode of The Powerpuff Girls in which a species of aliens called the "Broccoloids" are attempting to take over the Earth. They hypnotise all adults that eat broccoli, thus leaving only the disobedient children to protect the planet. The only way to defeat the Broccoloids, as The Powerpuff Girls and the children of Townsville soon find out, is to eat them all.<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopaedia.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/BroccoliBroccoli2006-01-27T19:48:00Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>There are two different types of broccoli, [[Purple Sprouting Broccoli]] and [[Calabrese]], which, confusingly, is the stuff you buy at the shop marked "broccoli". Both come from the same family, ''Brassica oleracea'' Italica Group. Like most brassicas they like soil rich in organic matter and must be rotated to avoid disease.<br />
<br />
===Important Facts about Broccoli===<br />
<br />
In a Halloween episode of The Simpsons, Homer is killed by eating broccoli. When examining the body, Dr. Hibert said that broccoli was one the of deadliest plants, that warned people with its bad taste.<br />
<br />
United States President George Bush (41st) was known to have an active disdain for broccoli, having actually said so in an offhand remark during his presidency. In response, a powerful broccoli agriculture lobby sent several tons of it to the White House.<br />
<br />
Also, in the TV sitcom Seinfeld, Newman refers to broccoli as a "Vile weed!". In the animated series Family Guy's episode "I Never Met the Dead Man", Stewie Griffin invents a weather control device in an attempt to wipe out global production of the vegetable.<br />
<br />
Dana Carvey did a sketch on Saturday Night Live where he sung an entire song about broccoli to Sigourney Weaver. The sketch was a big hit, and the song became quite popular.<br />
<br />
Broccoli even appeared as a contestant on a cartoon game show on an episode of MTV's Liquid Television. The character could only repeat its name, and did so for every answer it gave.<br />
<br />
There is also an episode of The Powerpuff Girls in which a species of aliens called the "Broccoloids" are attempting to take over the Earth. They hypnotise all adults that eat broccoli, thus leaving only the disobedient children to protect the planet. The only way to defeat the Broccoloids, as The Powerpuff Girls and the children of Townsville soon find out, is to eat them all.<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopaedia.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T19:20:15Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
[[Common pests and how to deal with them]]<br />
<br />
Please only post public domain material. Just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's not under copyright. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T19:15:57Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they receive their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedfest.co.uk/ Roguelands Heirloom Vegetables]<br />
No, I hadn't heard of them either. Heirloom seeds, with a quite extraordinary range of tomatoes. Also grow your own loofah.<br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T19:13:36Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they receive their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedfest.co.uk/ Roguelands Heirloom Vegetables]<br />
No, I hadn't heard of them either. Heirloom seeds, with a quite extraordinary range of tomatoes. <br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T19:08:13Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
[[Common pests and how to deal with them]]<br />
<br />
Please only post public domain material. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T19:06:27Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
[[Common pests and how to deal with them]]<br />
<br />
Please be very careful about only posting public domain material! Not everything on the internet is in the public domain in its legal sense. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/AllotmentsAllotments2006-01-27T18:44:37Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
= Allotment (gardening) =<br />
<br />
=== From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopedia. ===<br />
<br />
Some suggested pages to create:<br />
<br />
*[[Compost]]<br />
*[[What can I grow in January]]<br />
*[[First early potatoes]]<br />
*[[How can I use an old washing machine drum?]]<br />
*[[Slug Control]]<br />
*[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
*[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
To edit one of the above pages, click on the link then click on the tab marked '''edit'''.<br />
<br />
To see how ''some'' of '''these''' effects are done, click on the edit tab above on this page.<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
In the United Kingdom, an '''allotment''' is a small area of land, let out at a nominal yearly rent by local government or independent allotment associations, for individuals to grow their own food. This could be considered as an example of a community garden system for urban and to some extent rural folk.<br />
<br />
The allotment system began in the 18th century: for example, a 1732 engraving of Birmingham, England shows the town encircled by allotments, some of which still exist to this day. Following the Inclosure Acts and the Commons Act of 1876 the land available for personal cultivation by the poor was greatly diminished. To fulfil the need for land allotment legislation was included. The law was first fully codified in the Small Holdings and Allotment Act of 1908, it was modified by the Allotments Act of 1922 and subsequent Allotments Acts up until 1950.<br />
<br />
Under the acts a local government is required to maintain an "adequate provision" of land, usually a large allotment field which can then be subdivided into allotment gardens for individual residents at a low rent. The rent is set at what a person "may reasonably be expected to pay" (1950), in 1997 the average rent for a 10 rod (50.29 metres) plot was £22 a year. Each plot cannot exceed 40 rods and must be used for the production of fruit or vegetables for consumption by the plotholder and their family (1922), the exact size and quality of the plots is not defined. The council has a duty to provide sufficient allotments to meet demand. The total income from allotments was £2.61 million and total expenditure was £8.44 million in 1997.<br />
<br />
<br />
The total number of plots has varied greatly over time. In the 19th and early 20th century, the allotment system supplied much of the fresh vegetables eaten by the poor. In 1873 there were 244,268 plots and by 1918 there were around 1,500,000 plots. While numbers fell in the 1920s and 1930s, following an increase to 1,400,000 during World War II there were still around 1,117,000 plots in 1948. This number has been in decline since then, falling to 600,000 by the late 1960s. The Thorpe Inquiry of 1969 investigated the decline and put the causes as the decline in available land, increasing prosperity and the growth of other leisure activities.<br />
<br />
Despite increased interest in "green" issues from the 1970s which revived interest in allotment gardening the rate of decline was only slowed, falling from 530,000 plots in 1970 to 497,000 in 1977 although there was a substantial waiting list. By 1980 the surge in interest was over, by 1997 the number of plots had fallen to around 265,000, with waiting lists of 13,000 and 44,000 vacant plots.<br />
<br />
Allotment users have a organisation that campaigns on their behalf, the National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners, known as the "NSALG".</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T18:42:18Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they receive their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T18:41:34Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they recieve their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T18:41:06Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk DT Brown]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[www.exhibition-seeds.co.uk/acatalog Exhibition Seeds]<br />
For the exhibitionists amongst us.<br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they recieve their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.kingsseeds.com Kings] <br />
If you have an allotment, you probably get most of your seeds here. Kings have a deal with several allotment societies - so check before you order online. <br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.plantsofdistinction.co.uk Plants of Distinction]<br />
Mail order only - the most attractive seed catalogue you'll ever own. A pleasure to browse. <br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.thecuttinggarden.com Sarah Raven]<br />
Very pretty website but outrageously expensive.<br />
*[http://www.secretseeds.com Secret Seeds]<br />
Rare and unusual seeds. Organic vegetables and herbs, though not all that rare or unusual.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T17:58:23Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.dobies.co.uk Dobies]<br />
As well as seeds, Dobies do quite a wide range of plug plants, especially useful for the newbie gardener or people without much time.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they recieve their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.meadowmania.co.uk Meadowmania]<br />
Organic herbs and vegetables and, peculiarly, horse paddock grass mixtures. Should you like your manure fresh. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T17:50:06Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; members can choose twelve, of which they recieve their top six plus a lucky dip.<br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T17:48:55Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] <br />
No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; member<br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] <br />
Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T17:48:19Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; member<br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T17:47:43Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
Cheers,<br />
Bupster.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.edirectory.co.uk/chilternseeds/pages/index Chiltern Seeds] No pictures but very entertaining descriptions of a good range of flowers, fruit and vegetables, including an enormous selection of wildflowers.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.hdra.org.uk Henry Doubleday Research Association (now Garden Organic)]<br />
Heritage seed library. Different range every year; member<br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.<br />
*[http://www.seeds.thompson-morgan.com Thompson and Morgan] Another major supplier, T&M often have special offers - the current season's offer is your most expensive packet of seeds free. Dangerous, if you ask me.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Common_pests_and_how_to_deal_with_themCommon pests and how to deal with them2006-01-27T17:25:12Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
This is work in progress, please feel free to add comments about commom garden pest and how to deal with them.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
<br />
*Using coffee for [[Slug Control]].</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Common_pests_and_how_to_deal_with_themCommon pests and how to deal with them2006-01-27T17:24:30Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
This is work in progress, please feel free to add comments about commom garden pest and how to deal with them.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Using coffee for [[Slug Control]]</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Common_pests_and_how_to_deal_with_themCommon pests and how to deal with them2006-01-27T17:24:04Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
This is work in progress, please feel free to add comments about commom garden pest and how to deal with them.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
Using coffee for [[slug control¦Slug Control]]</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Common_pests_and_how_to_deal_with_themCommon pests and how to deal with them2006-01-27T17:20:32Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
This is work in progress, please feel free to add comments about commom garden pest and how to deal with them.<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/List_of_vegetables_to_growList of vegetables to grow2006-01-27T14:39:57Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>= List of vegetables to grow =<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopedia.<br />
<br />
This has been translated from the American and I've taken out anything I hadn't heard of. Feel free to add more...<br />
<br />
Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
== Brassicas == <br />
<br />
* [[Broccoli]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Italica group)<br />
* [[Brussels sprout]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gemmifera group)<br />
* [[Cauliflower]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Botrytis group)<br />
* [[Cabbage]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Capitata group)<br />
* [[Kale]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Acephala group)<br />
* [[Rapini]] (''Brasica rapa'')<br />
* [[Chinese broccoli]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''alboglabra'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''pekinensis'')<br />
* [[Komatsuna]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''perviridis'')<br />
* [[Mizuna greens]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''nipposinica'')<br />
* [[Mustard plant|Oriental mustard]] (''Brassica juncea'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage|Pak choi]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''chinensis'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Leafy and salad vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Amaranth]] (''Amaranthus cruentus'')<br />
* [[Rocket]] (''Eruca sativa'')<br />
* [[Celtuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'' var. ''asparagina'')<br />
* [[Chicory]] (''Cichorium intybus'')<br />
* [[Corn salad]] (''Valerianella locusta'')<br />
* [[Cress]] (''Lepidium sativum'')<br />
* [[Endive]] (''Cichorium endivia'')<br />
* [[Good King Henry]] (''Chenopodium bonus-henricus'')<br />
* [[Lettuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'')<br />
* [[Sinapis|Mustard]] (''Sinapis alba'')<br />
* [[Sorrel]] (''Rumex acetosa'')<br />
* [[Spinach]] (''Spinacia oleracea'')<br />
* [[Chard|Swiss chard]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''cicla'' var. ''flavescens'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Fruiting and flowering vegetables ==<br />
<br />
* [[Avocado]] (''Persea americana'')<br />
* [[Cayenne pepper]] (''Capsicum frutescens'')<br />
* [[Chayote]] (''Sechium edule'')<br />
* [[Chilli pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Longum group)<br />
* [[Courgette]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Cucumber]] (''Cucumis sativus'')<br />
* [[Aubergine]] (''Solanum melongena'')<br />
* [[Globe Artichoke]] (''Cynara scolymus'')<br />
* [[Malabar gourd]] (''Cucurbita ficifolia'')<br />
* [[Marrow]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Melon]] (''Cucumis melo'')<br />
* [[Pumpkin]] (''Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Sweetcorn]] (''Zea mays'')<br />
* [[Sweet pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Grossum group)<br />
* [[Tomato]] (''Lycopersicon esculentum'')<br />
* [[Watermelon]] (''Citrullus lanatus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Podded Vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus pea]] (''Psophocarpus tetragonolobus'')<br />
* [[Azuki bean]] (''Vigna angularis'')<br />
* [[Black-eyed pea]] (''Vigna unguiculata'' subsp. ''unguiculata'')<br />
* [[Chickpea]] (''Cicer arietinum'')<br />
* [[Fava bean]] (''Vicia faba'')<br />
* [[French bean]] (''Phaseolus vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Lentil]] (''Lens culinaris'')<br />
* [[Lima_bean]] (''Phaseolus lunatus'')<br />
* [[Mung bean]] (''Vigna radiata'')<br />
* [[Okra]] (''Abelmoschus esculentus'')<br />
* [[Pea]] (''Pisum sativum'')<br />
* [[Runner bean]] (''Phaseolus coccineus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Bulb and stem vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus]] (''Asparagus officinalis'')<br />
* [[Cardoon]] (''Cynara cardunculus'')<br />
* [[Celeriac]] (''Apium graveolens'' var. ''rapaceum'')<br />
* [[Celery]] (''Apium graveolens'')<br />
* [[Elephant Garlic]] (''Allium ampeloprasum'' var. ''ampeloprasum'')<br />
* [[Fennel]] (''Foeniculum vulgare'' var. ''dulce'')<br />
* [[Garlic]] (''Allium sativum'')<br />
* [[Kohlrabi]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gongylodes group)<br />
* [[Leek (vegetable)|Leek]] (''Allium porrum'')<br />
* [[Onion]] (''Allium cepa'')<br />
* [[Rhubarb]] (''Rheum'' x ''cultorum'')<br />
* [[Shallot]] (''Allium cepa'' Aggregatum group)<br />
* [[Welsh onion]] (''Allium fistulosum'')<br />
* [[Wild leek]] (''Allium tricoccum'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Root and tuberous vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Beetroot]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Carrot]] (''Daucus carota'')<br />
* [[Cassava]] (''Manihot esculenta'')<br />
* [[Chinese artichoke]] (''Stachys affinis'')<br />
* [[Ginger]] (''Zingiber officinale'')<br />
* [[Parsley|Hamburg parsley]] (''Petroselinum crispum'' var. ''tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Jerusalem artichoke]] (''Helianthus tuberosus'')<br />
* [[Parsnip]] (''Pastinaca sativa'')<br />
* [[Potato]] (''Solanum tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Radish]] (''Raphanus sativus'')<br />
* [[Rutabaga]] (''Brassica napus'' Napobrassica group)<br />
* [[Salsify]] (''Tragopogon porrifolius'')<br />
* [[Scorzonera]] (''Scorzonera hispanica'')<br />
* [[Skirret]] (''Sium sisarum'')<br />
* [[Sweet potato]] (''Ipomoea batatas'')<br />
* [[Taro]] (''Colocasia esculenta'')<br />
* [[Turnip]] (''Brassica rapa'' Rapifera group)<br />
* [[Wasabi]] (''Wasabia japonica'')<br />
* [[Yam]] (''Dioscorea'' spp.).</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/List_of_vegetables_to_growList of vegetables to grow2006-01-27T14:32:58Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
= List of vegetables to grow =<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopedia.<br />
<br />
This has been translated from the American and I've taken out anything I hadn't heard of. Feel free to add more...<br />
<br />
Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
== Brassicas == <br />
<br />
* [[Broccoli]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Italica group)<br />
* [[Brussels sprout]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gemmifera group)<br />
* [[Cauliflower]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Botrytis group)<br />
* [[Cabbage]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Capitata group)<br />
* [[Kale]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Acephala group)<br />
* [[Rapini]] (''Brasica rapa'')<br />
* [[Chinese broccoli]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''alboglabra'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''pekinensis'')<br />
* [[Komatsuna]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''perviridis'')<br />
* [[Mizuna greens]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''nipposinica'')<br />
* [[Mustard plant|Oriental mustard]] (''Brassica juncea'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage|Pak choi]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''chinensis'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Leafy and salad vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Amaranth]] (''Amaranthus cruentus'')<br />
* [[Rocket]] (''Eruca sativa'')<br />
* [[Celtuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'' var. ''asparagina'')<br />
* [[Chicory]] (''Cichorium intybus'')<br />
* [[Corn salad]] (''Valerianella locusta'')<br />
* [[Cress]] (''Lepidium sativum'')<br />
* [[Endive]] (''Cichorium endivia'')<br />
* [[Good King Henry]] (''Chenopodium bonus-henricus'')<br />
* [[Lettuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'')<br />
* [[Sinapis|Mustard]] (''Sinapis alba'')<br />
* [[Sorrel]] (''Rumex acetosa'')<br />
* [[Spinach]] (''Spinacia oleracea'')<br />
* [[Chard|Swiss chard]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''cicla'' var. ''flavescens'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Fruiting and flowering vegetables ==<br />
<br />
* [[Avocado]] (''Persea americana'')<br />
* [[Cayenne pepper]] (''Capsicum frutescens'')<br />
* [[Chayote]] (''Sechium edule'')<br />
* [[Chilli pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Longum group)<br />
* [[Courgette]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Cucumber]] (''Cucumis sativus'')<br />
* [[Aubergine]] (''Solanum melongena'')<br />
* [[Globe Artichoke]] (''Cynara scolymus'')<br />
* [[Malabar gourd]] (''Cucurbita ficifolia'')<br />
* [[Marrow]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Melon]] (''Cucumis melo'')<br />
* [[Pumpkin]] (''Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Sweetcorn]] (''Zea mays'')<br />
* [[Sweet pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Grossum group)<br />
* [[Tomato]] (''Lycopersicon esculentum'')<br />
* [[Watermelon]] (''Citrullus lanatus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Podded Vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus pea]] (''Psophocarpus tetragonolobus'')<br />
* [[Azuki bean]] (''Vigna angularis'')<br />
* [[Black-eyed pea]] (''Vigna unguiculata'' subsp. ''unguiculata'')<br />
* [[Chickpea]] (''Cicer arietinum'')<br />
* [[Fava bean]] (''Vicia faba'')<br />
* [[French bean]] (''Phaseolus vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Lentil]] (''Lens culinaris'')<br />
* [[Lima_bean]] (''Phaseolus lunatus'')<br />
* [[Mung bean]] (''Vigna radiata'')<br />
* [[Okra]] (''Abelmoschus esculentus'')<br />
* [[Pea]] (''Pisum sativum'')<br />
* [[Runner bean]] (''Phaseolus coccineus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Bulb and stem vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus]] (''Asparagus officinalis'')<br />
* [[Cardoon]] (''Cynara cardunculus'')<br />
* [[Celeriac]] (''Apium graveolens'' var. ''rapaceum'')<br />
* [[Celery]] (''Apium graveolens'')<br />
* [[Elephant Garlic]] (''Allium ampeloprasum'' var. ''ampeloprasum'')<br />
* [[Fennel]] (''Foeniculum vulgare'' var. ''dulce'')<br />
* [[Garlic]] (''Allium sativum'')<br />
* [[Kohlrabi]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gongylodes group)<br />
* [[Leek (vegetable)|Leek]] (''Allium porrum'')<br />
* [[Onion]] (''Allium cepa'')<br />
* [[Rhubarb]] (''Rheum'' x ''cultorum'')<br />
* [[Shallot]] (''Allium cepa'' Aggregatum group)<br />
* [[Welsh onion]] (''Allium fistulosum'')<br />
* [[Wild leek]] (''Allium tricoccum'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Root and tuberous vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Beetroot]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Carrot]] (''Daucus carota'')<br />
* [[Cassava]] (''Manihot esculenta'')<br />
* [[Chinese artichoke]] (''Stachys affinis'')<br />
* [[Ginger]] (''Zingiber officinale'')<br />
* [[Parsley|Hamburg parsley]] (''Petroselinum crispum'' var. ''tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Jerusalem artichoke]] (''Helianthus tuberosus'')<br />
* [[Parsnip]] (''Pastinaca sativa'')<br />
* [[Potato]] (''Solanum tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Radish]] (''Raphanus sativus'')<br />
* [[Rutabaga]] (''Brassica napus'' Napobrassica group)<br />
* [[Salsify]] (''Tragopogon porrifolius'')<br />
* [[Scorzonera]] (''Scorzonera hispanica'')<br />
* [[Skirret]] (''Sium sisarum'')<br />
* [[Sweet potato]] (''Ipomoea batatas'')<br />
* [[Taro]] (''Colocasia esculenta'')<br />
* [[Turnip]] (''Brassica rapa'' Rapifera group)<br />
* [[Wasabi]] (''Wasabia japonica'')<br />
* [[Yam]] (''Dioscorea'' spp.).</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/List_of_vegetables_to_growList of vegetables to grow2006-01-27T14:32:42Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div> NOTOC <br />
= List of vegetables to grow =<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopedia.<br />
<br />
This has been translated from the American and I've taken out anything I hadn't heard of. Feel free to add more...<br />
<br />
Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
== Brassicas == <br />
<br />
* [[Broccoli]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Italica group)<br />
* [[Brussels sprout]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gemmifera group)<br />
* [[Cauliflower]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Botrytis group)<br />
* [[Cabbage]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Capitata group)<br />
* [[Kale]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Acephala group)<br />
* [[Rapini]] (''Brasica rapa'')<br />
* [[Chinese broccoli]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''alboglabra'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''pekinensis'')<br />
* [[Komatsuna]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''perviridis'')<br />
* [[Mizuna greens]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''nipposinica'')<br />
* [[Mustard plant|Oriental mustard]] (''Brassica juncea'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage|Pak choi]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''chinensis'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Leafy and salad vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Amaranth]] (''Amaranthus cruentus'')<br />
* [[Rocket]] (''Eruca sativa'')<br />
* [[Celtuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'' var. ''asparagina'')<br />
* [[Chicory]] (''Cichorium intybus'')<br />
* [[Corn salad]] (''Valerianella locusta'')<br />
* [[Cress]] (''Lepidium sativum'')<br />
* [[Endive]] (''Cichorium endivia'')<br />
* [[Good King Henry]] (''Chenopodium bonus-henricus'')<br />
* [[Lettuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'')<br />
* [[Sinapis|Mustard]] (''Sinapis alba'')<br />
* [[Sorrel]] (''Rumex acetosa'')<br />
* [[Spinach]] (''Spinacia oleracea'')<br />
* [[Chard|Swiss chard]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''cicla'' var. ''flavescens'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Fruiting and flowering vegetables ==<br />
<br />
* [[Avocado]] (''Persea americana'')<br />
* [[Cayenne pepper]] (''Capsicum frutescens'')<br />
* [[Chayote]] (''Sechium edule'')<br />
* [[Chilli pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Longum group)<br />
* [[Courgette]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Cucumber]] (''Cucumis sativus'')<br />
* [[Aubergine]] (''Solanum melongena'')<br />
* [[Globe Artichoke]] (''Cynara scolymus'')<br />
* [[Malabar gourd]] (''Cucurbita ficifolia'')<br />
* [[Marrow]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Melon]] (''Cucumis melo'')<br />
* [[Pumpkin]] (''Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Sweetcorn]] (''Zea mays'')<br />
* [[Sweet pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Grossum group)<br />
* [[Tomato]] (''Lycopersicon esculentum'')<br />
* [[Watermelon]] (''Citrullus lanatus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Podded Vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus pea]] (''Psophocarpus tetragonolobus'')<br />
* [[Azuki bean]] (''Vigna angularis'')<br />
* [[Black-eyed pea]] (''Vigna unguiculata'' subsp. ''unguiculata'')<br />
* [[Chickpea]] (''Cicer arietinum'')<br />
* [[Fava bean]] (''Vicia faba'')<br />
* [[French bean]] (''Phaseolus vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Lentil]] (''Lens culinaris'')<br />
* [[Lima_bean]] (''Phaseolus lunatus'')<br />
* [[Mung bean]] (''Vigna radiata'')<br />
* [[Okra]] (''Abelmoschus esculentus'')<br />
* [[Pea]] (''Pisum sativum'')<br />
* [[Runner bean]] (''Phaseolus coccineus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Bulb and stem vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus]] (''Asparagus officinalis'')<br />
* [[Cardoon]] (''Cynara cardunculus'')<br />
* [[Celeriac]] (''Apium graveolens'' var. ''rapaceum'')<br />
* [[Celery]] (''Apium graveolens'')<br />
* [[Elephant Garlic]] (''Allium ampeloprasum'' var. ''ampeloprasum'')<br />
* [[Fennel]] (''Foeniculum vulgare'' var. ''dulce'')<br />
* [[Garlic]] (''Allium sativum'')<br />
* [[Kohlrabi]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gongylodes group)<br />
* [[Leek (vegetable)|Leek]] (''Allium porrum'')<br />
* [[Onion]] (''Allium cepa'')<br />
* [[Rhubarb]] (''Rheum'' x ''cultorum'')<br />
* [[Shallot]] (''Allium cepa'' Aggregatum group)<br />
* [[Welsh onion]] (''Allium fistulosum'')<br />
* [[Wild leek]] (''Allium tricoccum'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Root and tuberous vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Beetroot]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Carrot]] (''Daucus carota'')<br />
* [[Cassava]] (''Manihot esculenta'')<br />
* [[Chinese artichoke]] (''Stachys affinis'')<br />
* [[Ginger]] (''Zingiber officinale'')<br />
* [[Parsley|Hamburg parsley]] (''Petroselinum crispum'' var. ''tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Jerusalem artichoke]] (''Helianthus tuberosus'')<br />
* [[Parsnip]] (''Pastinaca sativa'')<br />
* [[Potato]] (''Solanum tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Radish]] (''Raphanus sativus'')<br />
* [[Rutabaga]] (''Brassica napus'' Napobrassica group)<br />
* [[Salsify]] (''Tragopogon porrifolius'')<br />
* [[Scorzonera]] (''Scorzonera hispanica'')<br />
* [[Skirret]] (''Sium sisarum'')<br />
* [[Sweet potato]] (''Ipomoea batatas'')<br />
* [[Taro]] (''Colocasia esculenta'')<br />
* [[Turnip]] (''Brassica rapa'' Rapifera group)<br />
* [[Wasabi]] (''Wasabia japonica'')<br />
* [[Yam]] (''Dioscorea'' spp.).</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/List_of_vegetables_to_growList of vegetables to grow2006-01-27T14:32:15Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>_NOTOC_<br />
= List of vegetables to grow =<br />
<br />
From [http://www.wikipedia.com Wikipedia], the free encyclopedia.<br />
<br />
This has been translated from the American and I've taken out anything I hadn't heard of. Feel free to add more...<br />
<br />
Back to [[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
== Brassicas == <br />
<br />
* [[Broccoli]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Italica group)<br />
* [[Brussels sprout]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gemmifera group)<br />
* [[Cauliflower]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Botrytis group)<br />
* [[Cabbage]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Capitata group)<br />
* [[Kale]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Acephala group)<br />
* [[Rapini]] (''Brasica rapa'')<br />
* [[Chinese broccoli]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''alboglabra'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''pekinensis'')<br />
* [[Komatsuna]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''perviridis'')<br />
* [[Mizuna greens]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''nipposinica'')<br />
* [[Mustard plant|Oriental mustard]] (''Brassica juncea'')<br />
* [[Chinese cabbage|Pak choi]] (''Brassica rapa'' var. ''chinensis'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Leafy and salad vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Amaranth]] (''Amaranthus cruentus'')<br />
* [[Rocket]] (''Eruca sativa'')<br />
* [[Celtuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'' var. ''asparagina'')<br />
* [[Chicory]] (''Cichorium intybus'')<br />
* [[Corn salad]] (''Valerianella locusta'')<br />
* [[Cress]] (''Lepidium sativum'')<br />
* [[Endive]] (''Cichorium endivia'')<br />
* [[Good King Henry]] (''Chenopodium bonus-henricus'')<br />
* [[Lettuce]] (''Lactuca sativa'')<br />
* [[Sinapis|Mustard]] (''Sinapis alba'')<br />
* [[Sorrel]] (''Rumex acetosa'')<br />
* [[Spinach]] (''Spinacia oleracea'')<br />
* [[Chard|Swiss chard]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''cicla'' var. ''flavescens'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Fruiting and flowering vegetables ==<br />
<br />
* [[Avocado]] (''Persea americana'')<br />
* [[Cayenne pepper]] (''Capsicum frutescens'')<br />
* [[Chayote]] (''Sechium edule'')<br />
* [[Chilli pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Longum group)<br />
* [[Courgette]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Cucumber]] (''Cucumis sativus'')<br />
* [[Aubergine]] (''Solanum melongena'')<br />
* [[Globe Artichoke]] (''Cynara scolymus'')<br />
* [[Malabar gourd]] (''Cucurbita ficifolia'')<br />
* [[Marrow]] (''Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Melon]] (''Cucumis melo'')<br />
* [[Pumpkin]] (''Cucurbita maxima, Cucurbita pepo'')<br />
* [[Sweetcorn]] (''Zea mays'')<br />
* [[Sweet pepper]] (''Capsicum annuum'' Grossum group)<br />
* [[Tomato]] (''Lycopersicon esculentum'')<br />
* [[Watermelon]] (''Citrullus lanatus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Podded Vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus pea]] (''Psophocarpus tetragonolobus'')<br />
* [[Azuki bean]] (''Vigna angularis'')<br />
* [[Black-eyed pea]] (''Vigna unguiculata'' subsp. ''unguiculata'')<br />
* [[Chickpea]] (''Cicer arietinum'')<br />
* [[Fava bean]] (''Vicia faba'')<br />
* [[French bean]] (''Phaseolus vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Lentil]] (''Lens culinaris'')<br />
* [[Lima_bean]] (''Phaseolus lunatus'')<br />
* [[Mung bean]] (''Vigna radiata'')<br />
* [[Okra]] (''Abelmoschus esculentus'')<br />
* [[Pea]] (''Pisum sativum'')<br />
* [[Runner bean]] (''Phaseolus coccineus'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Bulb and stem vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Asparagus]] (''Asparagus officinalis'')<br />
* [[Cardoon]] (''Cynara cardunculus'')<br />
* [[Celeriac]] (''Apium graveolens'' var. ''rapaceum'')<br />
* [[Celery]] (''Apium graveolens'')<br />
* [[Elephant Garlic]] (''Allium ampeloprasum'' var. ''ampeloprasum'')<br />
* [[Fennel]] (''Foeniculum vulgare'' var. ''dulce'')<br />
* [[Garlic]] (''Allium sativum'')<br />
* [[Kohlrabi]] (''Brassica oleracea'' Gongylodes group)<br />
* [[Leek (vegetable)|Leek]] (''Allium porrum'')<br />
* [[Onion]] (''Allium cepa'')<br />
* [[Rhubarb]] (''Rheum'' x ''cultorum'')<br />
* [[Shallot]] (''Allium cepa'' Aggregatum group)<br />
* [[Welsh onion]] (''Allium fistulosum'')<br />
* [[Wild leek]] (''Allium tricoccum'').<br />
<br />
<br />
== Root and tuberous vegetables == <br />
<br />
* [[Beetroot]] (''Beta vulgaris'' subsp. ''vulgaris'')<br />
* [[Carrot]] (''Daucus carota'')<br />
* [[Cassava]] (''Manihot esculenta'')<br />
* [[Chinese artichoke]] (''Stachys affinis'')<br />
* [[Ginger]] (''Zingiber officinale'')<br />
* [[Parsley|Hamburg parsley]] (''Petroselinum crispum'' var. ''tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Jerusalem artichoke]] (''Helianthus tuberosus'')<br />
* [[Parsnip]] (''Pastinaca sativa'')<br />
* [[Potato]] (''Solanum tuberosum'')<br />
* [[Radish]] (''Raphanus sativus'')<br />
* [[Rutabaga]] (''Brassica napus'' Napobrassica group)<br />
* [[Salsify]] (''Tragopogon porrifolius'')<br />
* [[Scorzonera]] (''Scorzonera hispanica'')<br />
* [[Skirret]] (''Sium sisarum'')<br />
* [[Sweet potato]] (''Ipomoea batatas'')<br />
* [[Taro]] (''Colocasia esculenta'')<br />
* [[Turnip]] (''Brassica rapa'' Rapifera group)<br />
* [[Wasabi]] (''Wasabia japonica'')<br />
* [[Yam]] (''Dioscorea'' spp.).</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T14:26:52Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T14:22:39Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
"Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T14:21:57Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]<br />
"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years." - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T13:58:29Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk/acatalog/index.html D.T.Brown's]<br />
Excellent seed suppliers that work out fairly cheap. <br />
*[http://www.edwintucker.com Edwin Tucker]-"Very very good seed supplier, especially good for spuds, but I am biased as my family have used this outfit for over 50 years" - Sandersj89. <br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T13:40:20Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for usefull information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Links to seed catalogues]]<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_PageMain Page2006-01-27T13:39:45Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ==<br />
<br />
Welcome to the Allotments4All wiki.<br />
<br />
It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for usefull information about allotments and gardening.<br />
<br />
But to begin ....<br />
<br />
[[FAQ]]<br />
<br />
Click below to start playing...<br />
<br />
[[Sandbox]]<br />
<br />
And here's our first page!<br />
<br />
[[Allotments]]<br />
<br />
And a list of veg to become an index of knowledge:<br />
<br />
[[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
[[Links to Seed Catalogues]]<br />
<br />
Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br />
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Links_to_seed_cataloguesLinks to seed catalogues2006-01-27T13:34:28Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>This is a work in progress...<br />
<br />
Please feel free to add any of your favourites that I might have missed, and any comments or reviews of the sites listed.<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
*[http://www.alanromans.com Alan Romans]<br />
Potato mad. Also (slightly limited) range of seeds at just 50p a packet.<br />
*[http://www.chileseeds.co.uk The Chilli Seed Company]<br />
Does what it says on the tin.<br />
*[http://www.nickys-nursery.co.uk/seeds Nicky's Nursery]<br />
Not a particularly pretty site but a good range, especially of chilli peppers, and reasonably priced.<br />
*[http://www.organiccatalog.com/catalog The Organic Gardening Catalogue]<br />
The first stop if you're gardening organically with a huge range, but can be pricy. Commercial arm of the HDRA (now Garden Organic).<br />
*[http://www.vidaverde.co.uk The Real Seed Catalogue]<br />
'Real' seeds from a firm that started on a Cambridge allotment. No hybrids. Many heirloom varieties. Reasonable prices, generous quantities, and customers are encouraged to save their own seeds.<br />
*[http://www.seedsofitaly.com Seeds of Italy] <br />
Wonderful range but be careful what you order as some packets contain up to 10,000 seeds!<br />
*[http://www.suttons-seeds.co.uk Suttons Seeds]<br />
Major seed supplier.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/SandboxSandbox2006-01-27T13:33:58Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/SandboxSandbox2006-01-27T13:33:40Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/PotatoPotato2006-01-27T13:27:06Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br />
<br />
[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
This was copied from the Thomas & Morgan (seed merchants) web site. Public domain.<br />
<br />
CHITTING (Sprouting) PROCESS <br />
It is very important that your tubers are kept in a frost free area. Remove them immediately from their nets, spread them out in a cool, well ventilated place prior to sprouting (called 'chitting'). <br />
All seed potatoes, particularly Earliest and Second Earlies, can benefit from 'chitting' and the formation of strong 'chits' over several weeks gives faster growth when planted out and heavier crops. Use seed trays, shallow boxes or empty egg cartons to 'chit' your potatoes.You will notice that the immature 'chits' are all at one end (called the rose end). Place the rose end upwards. Keep in a cool, but frost free place in natural light. Sturdy 'chits' will form which should attain 25mm (1 in.) in length.<br />
<br />
PLANTING <br />
Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost (do not use fresh compost to minimise keeled slug problems) and do not lime the soil to minimise scab blemishes on developing tubers. <br />
Planting times are not critical and are dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide. Use our specially blended, high potash Potato Fertiliser when planting.<br />
<br />
POTATO FERTILISER <br />
Concerning application of the 3kg bag of pelleted, high potash fertiliser.<br />
This should be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of persona] choice, and to a certain extent depends on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.<br />
<br />
AFTERCARE <br />
Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay production severely. First and Second Earlies particularly require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.<br />
<br />
HARVESTING <br />
Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when plants commence flowering, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting. As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.<br />
<br />
SECOND CROPPING POTATOES <br />
Given the UK climate, we would recommend planting our 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest we would recommend planting tubers outside is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting. There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to II weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time.The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they would be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.<br />
<br />
STORING <br />
For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will 'sweat' and rot.</div>Bupsterhttp://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Slug_ControlSlug Control2006-01-27T13:25:52Z<p>Bupster: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main Page]]<br />
<br />
Scientists have stumbled on a secret weapon against snails and slugs. <br />
They have discovered the garden pests are poisoned by caffeine. <br />
<br />
A strong cup of coffee is enough to send the creatures into a writhing frenzy, followed soon by death. <br />
<br />
Scientists think caffeine acts as a potent neurotoxin against the pests. <br />
<br />
The finding may be of use to gardeners and commercial growers. Slugs and snails are notoriously difficult to deter from attacking plants. <br />
<br />
The chemicals currently used to control them are not permitted as residues on food crops. <br />
<br />
Caffeine - regarded as safer and more environmentally acceptable - could be very useful in pest control. <br />
<br />
Special brew <br />
<br />
The discovery was made by scientists at the US Department of Agriculture's Agricultural Research Service in Hawaii. <br />
<br />
They were testing a caffeine spray against frog pests when they noticed slugs were dying. <br />
<br />
Follow-up studies showed that a 1-2% caffeine spray was enough to kill snails and slugs. <br />
<br />
Even at concentrations about 100 times weaker, the slugs lost their appetite. <br />
<br />
A cup of instant coffee contains about 0.05% caffeine, while brewed coffee contains more. <br />
<br />
Lead researcher Dr Robert Hollingsworth says because caffeine is a natural product and is classified by the US Food and Drug Administration as safe, "it has potential as an environmentally acceptable alternative toxicant for the control of slugs and snails on food crops." <br />
<br />
Natural high <br />
<br />
There is a catch. Caffeine at 2% concentrations can damage the foliage of plants or cause yellowing. <br />
<br />
It may be possible to overcome this by mixing caffeine with a polymer, say the researchers, who report their findings in the journal Nature. <br />
<br />
But not everybody is convinced that caffeine is environmentally friendly. <br />
<br />
Dr David Bohan, of the UK agricultural research institute IACR-Rothamsted, told BBC News Online: "1-2% is a very high concentration of caffeine. <br />
<br />
"That might be potentially damaging to plants and invertebrates other than slugs such as insects."</div>Bupster