Allotments4All - User contributions [en-gb]

http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=John+h Allotments4All - User contributions [en-gb] 2026-04-06T16:10:01Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.22.0 http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Water Water 2006-03-24T18:42:48Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> ==Contents==<br /> This page will hold ideas and photos showing ways to collect and save water on allotments.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Useful links ==<br /> <br /> http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/water/resources/drought/info2005.pdf</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Water Water 2006-03-24T18:41:19Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> ==Creative Options ==<br /> This page will hold ideas and photos showing ways to collect and save water on allotments.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Useful links ==<br /> <br /> http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/water/resources/drought/info2005.pdf</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Main_Page Main Page 2006-03-24T18:36:40Z

<p>John h: /* Contents */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ===<br /> <br /> It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.<br /> <br /> The first question, must be, what are [[Allotments]]?<br /> <br /> === Contents ===<br /> <br /> *[[FAQ]]<br /> <br /> *[[Edible plants]]<br /> <br /> *[[Non edible plants]]<br /> <br /> *[[Growing under glass]]<br /> <br /> *[[Kept animals]]<br /> <br /> *[[Making things]] out of other things<br /> <br /> *[[Methods of cultivation]]<br /> <br /> *[[monthly planner]] <br /> <br /> *[[Perennial weeds]]<br /> <br /> *[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]<br /> <br /> *[[Seeds]]<br /> <br /> *[[Water]] - collecting and saving<br /> <br /> *[[Wiki Commands]]<br /> <br /> *[[Wildlife]]<br /> <br /> === How to make your own contributions ===<br /> <br /> Click below to start playing...<br /> <br /> *[[Sandbox]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Please only post public domain material. Just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's not under copyright. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!!<br /> <br /> Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]<br /> and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Asparagus Asparagus 2006-03-20T16:42:10Z

<p>John h: /* Important Facts about Asparagus */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Sowing'''<br /> <br /> * Seed depth: 6-13mm<br /> * Germination soil temperature: 25 C<br /> * Days to germinate: 10-12<br /> * Sow indoors: Late winter to early spring - 10 weeks before last frost<br /> * Sow outdoors: Not recommended<br /> * Plant outdoors: In spring, 3weeks before last frost<br /> <br /> '''Growing'''<br /> <br /> * pH range: 6.5-7.5<br /> * Growing soil temperature: 16-24 C<br /> * Spacing in beds: 45cm<br /> * Watering: Heavy<br /> * Light: 8 hours or more per day for best yield, will tolerate 4-8 hours<br /> * Nutrient requirements: N=high; P=moderate, K=moderate<br /> * Rotation considerations: Avoid following onion family plants<br /> * Good companions: Basil, calendula, parsley, tomato<br /> * Bad companions: Onion, chive, garlic, leek<br /> * Seed Longevity: 3 years<br /> <br /> Asparagus is a perennial fern, harvested early in the year from well drained beds. Asparagus beds can be harvested for upto 30 years once established.Initial plants can be grown from seed or planted as one or two year old crowns<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Important Facts about Asparagus===<br /> <br /> <br /> http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/ExEx6009.pdf</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Clearing_a_new_allotment Clearing a new allotment 2006-03-20T16:18:14Z

<p>John h: /* Covering with black plastic, cardboard etc */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]]<br /> <br /> == Introduction ==<br /> <br /> One of the most common reasons why new allotmenteers give up in their first season is the daunting task of cultivating an entire overgrown plot. Understanding different techniques for clearing some parts of a plot and simply keeping other parts 'in check' by stopping futher undesirable weed growth, can be an important part of helping to set realistic goals, reduce unnecessary discouragement and increase active allotment participation.<br /> <br /> === Bit at a time ===<br /> <br /> New allotments are not cleared in a day. Unless you are very lucky your first plot will have a covering of both [[perennial weeds]] and [[annual weeds]] when you first get it. The perennial weeds should be disposed of carefully, since they have the capacity to re-root and grow again if dug back into the soil.<br /> <br /> <br /> Do not add perennial weeds directly to your [[compost]] heap unless all light is excluded and you intend the heap to be left for a couple of years before using the contents. Other ways of dealing with perennial weeds include either burning/binning, or submerging in a spare water butt until they rot down completely. The resulting liquid can then be used as a liquid feed, or tipped onto the compost heap as a wetter/activator in the summer.<br /> <br /> === Covering with black plastic, cardboard etc ===<br /> <br /> If sections of your allotment are not going to be dug in the near future but you want to bring them into cultivation at a later date, you could consider covering these areas with black plastic, cardboard, carpets made of natural fibre or any other light excluding material which does not pollute the soil.<br /> <br /> Remember that winter winds can be quite strong, so any material used to cover the earth will need to be pegged down at the edges and weighed down with heavy objects such as bricks or 'soil bags'.<br /> <br /> To make soil bags, simply fill one bag with soil and tie a knot in the top, then put this in another carrier bag so that you have a couple of handles to move it about with. When you have finished with the weights you just cut holes in the bag, empty the soil back onto the allotment and bin the old carrier bags.<br /> <br /> <br /> Also remember that some materials, like polythene, can also be degraded by UV light so may crumble up and present further difficulties if left in the open for very long amounts of time. After a year most growth will have disappeared from under a lightproof covering and much of the hard work involved in clearing this area of weeds will then no longer be necessary.<br /> <br /> Some allotmenteers choose to cover bare soil with light proof plastic over winter to protect against the leeching effect of heavy rain which may otherwise wash away soil nutrients that other plants could benefit from next year. Another way of doing this is to use a [[Green manure]] between sowings of other crops.<br /> <br /> Land may also be returned to cultivation using a method referred to as [[Lasagne Gardening]].<br /> <br /> === Rotovating ===<br /> <br /> Whether to rotovate or not appears to be a personal thing, below are listed two points for and two against from the A4A forum.<br /> Point 1<br /> Two things, <br /> 1. yes rotovating does spread weeds (especially bind weed), but the ground is so broken up that they can be pulled by hand quite easily. <br /> 2. The rotovator blades form a '[[Hard Pan]]' at the bottom of the trench over a period of time which can seriously affect the drainage of the ground and also the plants ability to access trace elements in the sub soil. Every 5 years drive a stake appox 2' into the ground every foot or so and wriggle around to break the 'Hard Pan' up.<br /> <br /> A rotovator is great for creating a fine [[tilth]], mixing in [[compost]], [[manure]] etc but for 'digging' compacted earth it is as hard or sometimes harder than digging using a spade.<br /> <br /> Point 2<br /> but it was rotovated - twice in the space of a month or so - before I took it over. I don't know if it was done very badly or very well, but what I have is gorgeous friable soil that's full of worms and dead easy to work. Some of the beds that I'm digging over by hand are full of bloody great roots and others aren't. <br /> <br /> What it seems to have done for me is given me a plot that's much less scary than it would have been otherwise without vastly increasing the weeds (as everybody warns that it does). As above, you do still have to put the backache in; I'm going through each bed by hand and rarely clear more than one each weekend. I'll be lucky to have the whole plot rough dug by spring. But because of the rotavation I've managed to sow some rye grass that seems to be competing with the couch and bindweed, and I'm digging ground that even now, two months on, seems like more earth than weeds.<br /> <br /> Point 3<br /> When I got my latest plot it coincided with another new owner at the other end of the field. <br /> <br /> Much to my husband's chagrin I insisted that we clear the plot by hand, digging over, bed by bed freeing all the couch and bindweed roots as we went. Allotmenteer number two took the rotavator approach, my hubbie was deeply jealous of the sight of man and machine pitted against the ravages of nature.<br /> <br /> Two years later we have a neat(ish) and productive plot, full of veg, fruit and flowers. We still struggle daily with the bindweed - as do most of us- but things are well with the plot.<br /> <br /> Allotmenteer number two has a disaster area of pernicious weeds, lumps and bumps where yet another time/labour saving idea has gone wrong - (dig below the level of the weeds and seive all the soil back into the hole - I don't think so). More importantly to me, he has not harvested so much as a bean from the plot.<br /> <br /> I cannot count the number of times over this year, as the sun has set over the rhubarb, that my husband has said "do you know, I'm glad we did the thing properly" <br /> <br /> Point 4<br /> If your plot is mostly weeds, as most are, then you will just exacerbate the problem by chopping them into zillions of little pieces and digging them back in. <br /> You need to cut weeds back by strimming first. then you could cover up with sheet mulch etc and just prepare one bed at a time. this way the rest of the plot is slumbering under black plastic or cardboard and not getting any worse while you tackle a bed. You can then either weed kill your bed with glyphos and wait til it does its thing (about 3 weeks ish) then dig and get all the couch roots out, or go for no dig [[Lasagne Gardening]] method <br /> There's no need to try and do all the plot at once - it's not going anywhere and I'd resist the urge to try. You're more likely to stick at it if you do it in manageable chunks, eg a bed at a time.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-18T21:41:10Z

<p>John h: /* Introduction */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also After green manure has been dug in, the ground may need to be left for a couple of weeks before planting. This is to allow time for the top growth to begin rotting down.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances green manure should be harvested before it flowers, to avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> Green manure can help to keep moisture in the ground, preventing a 'dust bowl' effect where surface winds dry bare earth making it very dusty on the surface.<br /> <br /> Green manure can provide good habitats for wildlife as it tends to prodcus a "total cover" as opposed to rows with gaps between. This will act as valuable ground cover for all reptiles and amphibians (such as slow-worms, newts, toads and frogs).<br /> <br /> When dug in it will produce humus which will act as a long term spongy layer, makingthe soil more water retentive.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Broad beans===<br /> <br /> You can fill any gaps, as soon as they occure, with broad beans spaced about 6 inches.<br /> <br /> Pull the beans and either compost them or dig them in elsewhere at whatever stage. The young tops are quite tasty!<br /> If they're sown at the end of the season they stay until ground is needed in Spring.<br /> 6 inch spacing is good for weed suppression, but not for harvesting, although a good many do crop. I then use the beans for more GM sowing!<br /> The food crop is kept in place in the rotation, at 12 inch spacing, always from new seed. I grow far more than we need and use the spare beans to keep the GM going.<br /> <br /> To avoid the potential for disease it is advisable not to use broad beans as your only source of GM but it contributes to ensuring every bit of ground is always covered, and as much nitrogen as possible is going back into the soil or into the compost heap.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> <br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk during the summer and so suppresses weeds. Has a blue flower that attracts insects and butterflies (assuming you leave it to flower) and is not difficult to dig in even after flowering.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-18T21:34:12Z

<p>John h: /* Introduction */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also After green manure has been dug in, the ground may need to be left for a couple of weeks before planting. This is to allow time for the top growth to begin rotting down.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances green manure should be harvested before it flowers, to avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> <br /> One of the reasons I want to grow them is because I heard they keep moisture in the ground, and where my lottie is, it is VERY windy and so dries the soil, making it very dusty on the surface.<br /> Also read they are a good habitat for frogs and toads which I want to encourage so they can eat my slugs for me! <br /> <br /> <br /> Whilst they are growing, green manures, like all plants will take water from the soil. However they will prevent a dust bowl effect by protecting the surface from the wind.<br /> <br /> When dug in they will produce humus which will make the soil more water retentive and less likely to produce a dusty surface.<br /> <br /> They are certianly good for wildlife as it tends to prodcus a "total cover" as opposed to rows with gaps between. This will act as valuable ground cover for all reptiles and amphibians (such as slow-worms, newts, toads and frogs).<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Broad beans===<br /> <br /> You can fill any gaps, as soon as they occure, with broad beans spaced about 6 inches.<br /> <br /> Pull the beans and either compost them or dig them in elsewhere at whatever stage. The young tops are quite tasty!<br /> If they're sown at the end of the season they stay until ground is needed in Spring.<br /> 6 inch spacing is good for weed suppression, but not for harvesting, although a good many do crop. I then use the beans for more GM sowing!<br /> The food crop is kept in place in the rotation, at 12 inch spacing, always from new seed. I grow far more than we need and use the spare beans to keep the GM going.<br /> <br /> To avoid the potential for disease it is advisable not to use broad beans as your only source of GM but it contributes to ensuring every bit of ground is always covered, and as much nitrogen as possible is going back into the soil or into the compost heap.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> <br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk during the summer and so suppresses weeds. Has a blue flower that attracts insects and butterflies (assuming you leave it to flower) and is not difficult to dig in even after flowering.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Image_commands Image commands 2006-03-15T10:36:44Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> ==Gallery format==<br /> <br /> <gallery><br /> image:Calabrese.jpg<br /> image:Purple.jpg</gallery><br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Table format==<br /> <br /> {|<br /> |+'''Flowers'''<br /> |-<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Basil.jpg|thumb|left|150px,Basil]]<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Bartonia.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Balsam HHA.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> |-<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Acroclinium HA.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Achillea (Yarrow) HP.jpg|thumb|left|100px|,xxx]]<br /> | valign="top"|<br /> [[Image:Abutilon.jpg|thumb|left|50px|]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ==More details and examples on embedding internal images into articles==<br /> <br /> To include an uploaded image in a page, use a link in the form<br /> <nowiki>[[image:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.jpg]]</nowiki> or <nowiki>[[image:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.png|</nowiki>''alt text''<nowiki>]]</nowiki>.<br /> For uploaded sound files, you can include the download link in a page with <nowiki>[[media:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.ogg]]</nowiki>.<br /> <br /> '''Example:''' Using <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.png]]</nowiki>, the image Broccoli-thumbnail.png is included ([[Wiktionary:en:broccoli|broccoli]] is an edible vegetable):<br /> <br /> [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg]]<br /> <br /> If the wiki is set to another language than English, the name of the "Image:" namespace might be changed. For German, for example, it's <nowiki>[[Bild:Broccoli-thumbnail.png]]</nowiki><br /> <br /> ===Alternate Text===<br /> By specifying alternate text, you can make the article accessible to the blind, too. You can specify an alternate text after a "|"-sign, e.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.png|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki>, which will look like this:<br /> <br /> [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]<br /> ===Layout and resizing===<br /> [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|Canterbury Tales|80px|left|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]<br /> Several options can be set when including an image. Those affect the placing of the image, its size or the way the image will be presented. The options are <tt>right</tt>, <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, <tt>none</tt>, <tt>''size''px</tt>, <tt>thumbnail</tt> (<tt>thumb</tt>), <tt>frame</tt>, and <tt>''alternate (caption) text''</tt>. <br /> <br /> The options can be combined, and vertical bars ("|") are used to separate options from each other. The options can be put in any order. An unknown option is taken as the caption text. If there are two or more unknown options, the last one upstages the rest: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|Canterbury Tales|80px|left|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki>. This is shown on the left; the caption is "A cartoon drawing of broccoli", not "Canterbury Tales".{{clr}}<br /> <br /> Here is the description of the options other than the caption text:<br /> <br /> ; <tt>right</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|70px|]]makes the image right-aligned, and text floats to the left: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).<br /> ; <tt>left</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|left|70px|]]The image is left aligned, and text floats to the right of the image: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|left|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left).{{clr}}<br /> ; <tt>center</tt> : The image is centered, and...[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|center|70px|]]the following text starts below it: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|center|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown above).{{clr}}<br /> ; <tt>none</tt> : The image is put at the left, and...[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|70px|]]the following text does not float to the right or (naturally) to the left, and starts below it: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown above).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> <br /> :: '''Notes:'''<br /> ::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|right|center|left|70px|]]The above four options are incompatible. When used combined, the last one overrides the rest: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|right|center|left|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> ::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|70px|right]]What is between the last vertical bar and the closing brackets ("]]"), void or not, is taken as the last option, and works as usual. For instance, when the last option is <tt>right</tt>, the image is right-aligned, and text floats to the left: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|70px|right]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> ::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is not displayed.|70px|left|]][[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is displayed.|70px|right]]In particular, if the last option is the void text (that is, if there is nothing between the last vertical bar and the closing brackets), the caption is not displayed: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is not displayed.|70px|left|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left) and <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is displayed.|70px|right]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> <br /> ; <tt>''size''px</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|]]renders a version of the image that's ''[size]'' pixels wide (e.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|]]</nowiki> shown on the right). Height is computed to keep [[En:aspect ratio (image)|aspect ratio]] (i.e. the shape of the image).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> <br /> :: '''Note:''' [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|80px]]When there are two or more "size" options, only the last one is valid: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|80px]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}<br /> <br /> ; <tt>thumbnail</tt>, <tt>thumb</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumbnail|left|100px|]][[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|The Palace of Westminster]]The <tt>thumbnail</tt> (<tt>thumb</tt>) option generates a [[En:thumbnail|thumbnail]] image. It is automatically resized when the "size" attribute is not specified. Without the options <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, and <tt>none</tt>, the image is normally on the right. If the image has a caption text, it is displayed in the lower margin. E.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumbnail|left|100px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left) and <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|The Palace of Westminster]]</nowiki> (shown on the right). {{clr}}<br /> [[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|right|thumb|100px|This is a globe, and take a look at it in [[Media:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|the actual size]]]]An "enlarge"-icon is put also in the lower margin of the thumbnail. Both the image itself and the icon link to the image description page with the image in its actual size. The icon shows the link title "Enlarge" in its hoverbox, even in cases where this term does not apply, because it leads from the enlarged image to the one with the actual size. E.g. <nowiki>[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|right|thumb|100px|This is a globe, and take a look at it in [[Media:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|the actual size]].]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}<br /> ; <tt>frame</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|frame|thumbnail|50px|A drawing of broccoli]]With this option, the embedded image is shown with its actual size enclosed by a frame, regardless of the "thumb" or "size" attribute, and the caption, if any, is visible in the frame. Without the options <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, and <tt>none</tt>, the image is normally on the right: <tt><nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|frame|thumbnail|50px|A drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki></tt>.{{clr}}<br /> <br /> <br /> With none of the options other than <tt>''size''px</tt> and <tt>''alternate (caption) text''</tt>, an embedded image is rendered inline. Note that the size of the inline images can be reduced but they can not be enlarged.<br /> <br /> <pre><br /> text text text text text text<br /> <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|150px|A drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki><br /> text text text text text<br /> <nowiki>[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|100px|This is a globe.]]</nowiki><br /> text text text text<br /> </pre><br /> <br /> gives<br /> <br /> text text text text text text<br /> [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|150px|A drawing of broccoli]]<br /> text text text text text<br /> [[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|100px|This is a globe.]]<br /> text text text text</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-13T07:49:07Z

<p>John h: Ammend text about broad beans</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> <br /> One of the reasons I want to grow them is because I heard they keep moisture in the ground, and where my lottie is, it is VERY windy and so dries the soil, making it very dusty on the surface.<br /> Also read they are a good habitat for frogs and toads which I want to encourage so they can eat my slugs for me! <br /> <br /> <br /> Whilst they are growing, green manures, like all plants will take water from the soil. However they will prevent a dust bowl effect by protecting the surface from the wind.<br /> <br /> When dug in they will produce humus which will make the soil more water retentive and less likely to produce a dusty surface.<br /> <br /> They are certianly good for wildlife as it tends to prodcus a "total cover" as opposed to rows with gaps between. This will act as valuable ground cover for all reptiles and amphibians (such as slow-worms, newts, toads and frogs).<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Broad beans===<br /> <br /> You can fill any gaps, as soon as they occure, with broad beans spaced about 6 inches.<br /> <br /> Pull the beans and either compost them or dig them in elsewhere at whatever stage. The young tops are quite tasty!<br /> If they're sown at the end of the season they stay until ground is needed in Spring.<br /> 6 inch spacing is good for weed suppression, but not for harvesting, although a good many do crop. I then use the beans for more GM sowing!<br /> The food crop is kept in place in the rotation, at 12 inch spacing, always from new seed. I grow far more than we need and use the spare beans to keep the GM going.<br /> <br /> To avoid the potential for disease it is advisable not to use broad beans as your only source of GM but it contributes to ensuring every bit of ground is always covered, and as much nitrogen as possible is going back into the soil or into the compost heap.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> <br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk during the summer and so suppresses weeds. Has a blue flower that attracts insects and butterflies (assuming you leave it to flower) and is not difficult to dig in even after flowering.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T21:02:11Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> <br /> One of the reasons I want to grow them is because I heard they keep moisture in the ground, and where my lottie is, it is VERY windy and so dries the soil, making it very dusty on the surface.<br /> Also read they are a good habitat for frogs and toads which I want to encourage so they can eat my slugs for me! <br /> <br /> <br /> Whilst they are growing, green manures, like all plants will take water from the soil. However they will prevent a dust bowl effect by protecting the surface from the wind.<br /> <br /> When dug in they will produce humus which will make the soil more water retentive and less likely to produce a dusty surface.<br /> <br /> They are certianly good for wildlife as it tends to prodcus a "total cover" as opposed to rows with gaps between. This is, as you say, is good for all amphibians (we have newts). The one I really like is Phacelia which grows very quickly during the summer and so suppresses weeds but has a blue flower that attracts insects and butterflies (assuming you leave it to flower) and is not difficult to dig in even after flowering.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Broad beans===<br /> <br /> As soon as I harvest anything I fill the gap with broad beans, spaced about 6 inches.<br /> When I sow something else. I pull the beans and either compost them or dig them in elsewhere, at whatever stage. The young tops are quite tasty!<br /> If they're sown at the end of the season they stay until I need the ground in Spring.<br /> 6 inch spacing is good for weed suppression, but not for harvesting, although a good many do crop. I then use the beans for more GM sowing!<br /> The food crop is kept in place in the rotation, at 12 inch spacing, always from new seed. I grow far more than we need and use the spare beans to keep the GM going.<br /> <br /> I recognise the potential for disease, but I've been lucky so far.<br /> The results are that every bit of ground is always covered, and as much nitrogen as possible is going back into the soil or into the compost heap.<br /> <br /> Sorry to be long-winded, but I'm a nitrogen-cycle anorak <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T21:01:17Z

<p>John h: /* Introduction */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> <br /> One of the reasons I want to grow them is because I heard they keep moisture in the ground, and where my lottie is, it is VERY windy and so dries the soil, making it very dusty on the surface.<br /> Also read they are a good habitat for frogs and toads which I want to encourage so they can eat my slugs for me! <br /> <br /> <br /> Whilst they are growing, green manures, like all plants will take water from the soil. However they will prevent a dust bowl effect by protecting the surface from the wind.<br /> <br /> When dug in they will produce humus which will make the soil more water retentive and less likely to produce a dusty surface.<br /> <br /> They are certianly good for wildlife as it tends to prodcus a "total cover" as opposed to rows with gaps between. This is, as you say, is good for all amphibians (we have newts). The one I really like is Phacelia which grows very quickly during the summer and so suppresses weeds but has a blue flower that attracts insects and butterflies (assuming you leave it to flower) and is not difficult to dig in even after flowering.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T20:54:47Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T20:53:59Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia===<br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> <br /> ===Links===<br /> <br /> http://www.kitchengardens.dial.pipex.com/greenmanure.htm</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T20:51:52Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg.<br /> <br /> In most circumstances you really need to harvest green manure before it flowers, this will avoid problems with seeds growing while you are trying to plant your next crops and avoid nutrient loss from your soil.<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Phacellia==<br /> Fast growing and produces considerable bulk.<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T20:43:11Z

<p>John h: /* Alfalfa */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> Can be combined with fenugreek to germinate in October for good ground cover and control of weeds. Easy to dig in in spring.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-12T20:38:44Z

<p>John h: /* Poached Egg Plant */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting in late March will allow the sun to warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later.<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flowers in late May and then die off during the summer months. Its worth planting small amounts in an area where they can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Simply spread a narrow sheet of fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower to catch the seeds. Sheeting makes a significant difference to the amount of seed you are able to collect, since ordinarily seeds are not held in pods and do not spend a great deal of time maturing on the plant. Seeds fall to the ground individually and are difficult to collect because of this.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes.<br /> <br /> Becuase Limanthus is an over wintering crop, you can use it as an easily available 'slug bait' to trap slugs under pieces of wood and carpet during winter and early spring months.<br /> <br /> The open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Corn_salad Corn salad 2006-03-12T11:22:10Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Parsnip Parsnip 2006-03-12T11:21:36Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Ginger Ginger 2006-03-12T11:21:14Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Beetroot Beetroot 2006-03-12T11:20:45Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Rhubarb Rhubarb 2006-03-12T11:20:17Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/April April 2006-03-12T11:18:08Z

<p>John h: /* Vegetables */</p> <hr /> <div>link back to [[monthly planner]] <br /> <br /> ==Vegetables==<br /> <br /> SOW<br /> [[Beetroot]]<br /> [[Broad bean]]s<br /> [[Broccoli]] (early sprouting) end month<br /> [[Calabrese]] (early) - protect<br /> [[French bean]]s (end of month)<br /> [[Runner bean]]s (protect)<br /> [[Brussels sprout]]s<br /> [[Cabbage]]<br /> [[Carrot]]s (early)<br /> [[Carrot]]s (maincrop) mid month<br /> [[Summer [[Lettuce]]<br /> Maincrop [[Onion]] seed<br /> Spring [[Onion]]s<br /> [[Pea]]s (early and maincrop)<br /> Summer [[Radish]]<br /> [[Sweetcorn]] (protect)<br /> [[Tomato]]es (indoor and cloche)<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> [[Onion]] sets<br /> New [[potatoes<br /> Maincrop [[potatoes<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Broccoli]] (late sprouting)<br /> Spring maturing [[lettuce]]<br /> Summer [[Radish]] (cloche protected)<br /> Forced [[Rhubarb]]<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> Spray Peas with derris<br /> <br /> ==Fruit==<br /> PLANT<br /> [[Strawberries]]<br /> <br /> Protect [[peach]]es from frost<br /> Spring prune [[peach]] trees<br /> <br /> ==Herbs==<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> [[Basil]]<br /> [[Bay]]<br /> [[Chives]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Dill]]<br /> [[Marjoram]]/[[Oregano]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Mint]] <br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] seed outdoors<br /> [[Sage]] rooted plants outdoors<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Thyme]] (by root division) <br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] <br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> <br /> == navigation ==<br /> Back to [[monthly planner]] or on to [[January]] , [[February]] , [[March]] , [[April]] , [[May]] , [[June]] , [[July]] , [[August]] , [[September]] , [[October]] , [[November]] , [[December]].</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/April April 2006-03-12T10:29:47Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>link back to [[monthly planner]] <br /> <br /> ==Vegetables==<br /> <br /> SOW<br /> [[Beetroot]]<br /> [[Broad bean]]s<br /> [[Broccoli]] (early sprouting) end month<br /> [[Calabrese]] (early) - protect<br /> [[French bean]]s (end of month)<br /> [[Runner bean]]s (protect)<br /> [[Brussels sprout]]s<br /> [[Cabbage]]<br /> [[Carrot]]s (early)<br /> [[Carrot]]s (maincrop) mid month<br /> [[Summer [[Lettuce]]<br /> Maincrop [[Onion]] seed<br /> Spring [[Onion]]s<br /> [[Pea]]s (early and maincrop)<br /> Summer [[Radish]]<br /> [[Sweet corn]] (protect)<br /> [[Tomato]]es (indoor and cloche)<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> [[Onion]] sets<br /> New [[potatoes<br /> Maincrop [[potatoes<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Broccoli]] (late sprouting)<br /> Spring maturing [[lettuce]]<br /> Summer [[Radish]] (cloche protected)<br /> Forced [[Rhubarb]]<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> Spray Peas with derris<br /> <br /> ==Fruit==<br /> PLANT<br /> [[Strawberries]]<br /> <br /> Protect [[peach]]es from frost<br /> Spring prune [[peach]] trees<br /> <br /> ==Herbs==<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> [[Basil]]<br /> [[Bay]]<br /> [[Chives]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Dill]]<br /> [[Marjoram]]/[[Oregano]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Mint]] <br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] seed outdoors<br /> [[Sage]] rooted plants outdoors<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Thyme]] (by root division) <br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] <br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> <br /> == navigation ==<br /> Back to [[monthly planner]] or on to [[January]] , [[February]] , [[March]] , [[April]] , [[May]] , [[June]] , [[July]] , [[August]] , [[September]] , [[October]] , [[November]] , [[December]].</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/April April 2006-03-12T10:27:54Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>link back to [[monthly planner]] <br /> <br /> ==Vegetables==<br /> <br /> SOW<br /> [[Beetroot]]<br /> [[Broad Bean]]s<br /> [[Broccoli]] (early sprouting) end month<br /> [[Calabrese]] (early) - protect<br /> [[French Bean]]s (end of month)<br /> [[Runner Bean]]s (protect)<br /> [[Brussels Sprout]]s<br /> [[Cabbage]]<br /> [[Carrot]]s (early)<br /> [[Carrot]]s (maincrop) mid month<br /> [[Summer [[Lettuce]]<br /> Maincrop [[Onion]] seed<br /> Spring [[Onion]]s<br /> [[Pea]]s (early and maincrop)<br /> Summer [[Radish]]<br /> [[Sweet corn]] (protect)<br /> [[Tomato]]es (indoor and cloche)<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> [[Onion]] sets<br /> New [[potatoes<br /> Maincrop [[potatoes<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Broccoli]] (late sprouting)<br /> Spring maturing [[lettuce]]<br /> Summer [[Radish]] (cloche protected)<br /> Forced [[Rhubarb]]<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> Spray Peas with derris<br /> <br /> ==Fruit==<br /> PLANT<br /> [[Strawberries]]<br /> <br /> Protect [[peach]]es from frost<br /> Spring prune [[peach]] trees<br /> <br /> ==Herbs==<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> [[Basil]]<br /> [[Bay]]<br /> [[Chives]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Dill]]<br /> [[Marjoram]]/[[Oregano]] (outdoors)<br /> [[Mint]] <br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] seed outdoors<br /> [[Sage]] rooted plants outdoors<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Thyme]] (by root division) <br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Tarragon]]<br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] <br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> <br /> == navigation ==<br /> Back to [[monthly planner]] or on to [[January]] , [[February]] , [[March]] , [[April]] , [[May]] , [[June]] , [[July]] , [[August]] , [[September]] , [[October]] , [[November]] , [[December]].</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/March March 2006-03-08T10:59:40Z

<p>John h: /* Vegetables */</p> <hr /> <div>link back to [[monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> ==Vegetables==<br /> SOW<br /> [[Broad bean]]s<br /> [[French bean]]s (cloche protect)<br /> [[Broccoli]] (early sprouting)<br /> [[Brussels sprout]]s<br /> [[Cabbage]]<br /> Early [[Carrot]]s<br /> Summer [[Lettuce]]<br /> Maincrop [[Onion]] seed<br /> Spring [[Onion]]s<br /> [[Pea]]s (early)<br /> Summer [[Radish]]<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> Maincrop [[Onion]] sets<br /> New [[Potato]]es-L<br /> Maincrop [[Potato]]es(15th on)-L<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> [[Broccoli]] (early sprouting)<br /> [[Brussels sprout]]s (1st half of month)<br /> <br /> <br /> Spring maturing [[Lettuce]]<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> Dig beds for [[Tomato]]es, [[Runner bean]]s, [[French bean]]s and [[Sweetcorn]]. <br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> ==Fruit==<br /> <br /> SOW<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> Final chance for bare-rooted [[Apple]]s, Cherries, [[Pear]]s and plums.<br /> [[Strawberries]] (end month) <br /> <br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> <br /> ==Herbs==<br /> SOW<br /> <br /> PLANT<br /> <br /> [[Bay]]<br /> [[Chives]] (indoors)<br /> [[Marjoram]]/[[Oregano]] (indoors)<br /> [[Parsley]] (indoors)<br /> [[Rosemary]]<br /> [[Sage]] seed indoors<br /> [[Tarragon]] (late)<br /> [[Thyme]]<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> <br /> HARVEST<br /> None<br /> <br /> SPECIAL CARE<br /> Protect [[Peaches]] from frost<br /> <br /> == navigation ==<br /> Back to [[monthly planner]] or on to [[January]] , [[February]] , [[March]] , [[April]] , [[May]] , [[June]] , [[July]] , [[August]] , [[September]] , [[October]] , [[November]] , [[December]].</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-08T10:58:02Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === General Information ===<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:gooseberry.jpg|right|thumb|200px|gooseberry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Propagation ===<br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Gooseberry cutting in late February]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Taking cuttings to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate and stick it in a hole with some sharp sand to ensure good drainage.<br /> <br /> More precise details include:<br /> <br /> Remove the top 2 or 3 inches of cutting by cutting at an angle next to, but sloping away from a bud. An angled cut like this will help winter rain to run away from the bud and prevent it rotting in its first winter.<br /> <br /> Remove all buds on the cutting except for the top 3, which will ensure your new plants have a good length of stem. This will help to prevent fruiting branches touching touch the ground and assist air circulation around the bush in following years.<br /> <br /> Trim the bottom end of the cutting with a clean horizontal cut and bury about 8 inches deep in a mixture of sharp sand and soil. Firm the ground around the cutting to prevent winter frost penetration from lifting the cutting or damaging future root development.<br /> <br /> If you make a slit trench in the ground and plant half a dozen cuttings, by next spring you should hopefully get at least half to root and begin growing.<br /> <br /> Its best to leave the cutting where they are in their first season, so that they can develop a healthy root system. They can be dug up as fully formed small plants in October, a year after you originally planted them as twigs.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-08T10:56:49Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === General Information ===<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:gooseberry.jpg|right|thumb|200px|gooseberry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Propagation ===<br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Taking cuttings to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate and stick it in a hole with some sharp sand to ensure good drainage.<br /> <br /> More precise details include:<br /> <br /> Remove the top 2 or 3 inches of cutting by cutting at an angle next to, but sloping away from a bud. An angled cut like this will help winter rain to run away from the bud and prevent it rotting in its first winter.<br /> <br /> Remove all buds on the cutting except for the top 3, which will ensure your new plants have a good length of stem. This will help to prevent fruiting branches touching touch the ground and assist air circulation around the bush in following years.<br /> <br /> Trim the bottom end of the cutting with a clean horizontal cut and bury about 8 inches deep in a mixture of sharp sand and soil. Firm the ground around the cutting to prevent winter frost penetration from lifting the cutting or damaging future root development.<br /> <br /> If you make a slit trench in the ground and plant half a dozen cuttings, by next spring you should hopefully get at least half to root and begin growing.<br /> <br /> Its best to leave the cutting where they are in their first season, so that they can develop a healthy root system. They can be dug up as fully formed small plants in October, a year after you originally planted them as twigs.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-08T10:48:55Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === General Information ===<br /> <br /> <br /> [[image:gooseberry.jpg|right|thumb|200px|gooseberry]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> === Propagation ===<br /> <br /> <br /> Taking cuttings to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate and stick it in a hole with some sharp sand to ensure good drainage.<br /> <br /> <br /> More precise details include:<br /> <br /> Remove the top 2 or 3 inches of cutting by cutting at an angle next to, but sloping away from a bud. An angled cut like this will help winter rain to run away from the bud and prevent it rotting in its first winter.<br /> <br /> <br /> Remove all buds on the cutting except for the top 3, which will ensure your new plants have a good length of stem. This will help to prevent fruiting branches touching touch the ground and assist air circulation around the bush in following years.<br /> <br /> <br /> Trim the bottom end of the cutting with a clean horizontal cut and bury about 8 inches deep in a mixture of sharp sand and soil. Firm the ground around the cutting to prevent winter frost penetration from lifting the cutting or damaging future root development.<br /> <br /> If you make a slit trench in the ground and plant half a dozen cuttings, by next spring you should hopefully get at least half to root and begin growing.<br /> <br /> Its best to leave the cutting where they are in their first season, so that they can develop a healthy root system. They can be dug up as fully formed small plants in October, a year after you originally planted them as twigs.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:48:22Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Taking cuttings to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate and stick it in a hole with some sharp sand to ensure good drainage.<br /> <br /> <br /> More precise details include:<br /> <br /> Remove the top 2 or 3 inches of cutting by cutting at an angle next to, but sloping away from a bud. An angled cut like this will help winter rain to run away from the bud and prevent it rotting in its first winter.<br /> <br /> <br /> Remove all buds on the cutting except for the top 3, which will ensure your new plants have a good length of stem. This will help to prevent fruiting branches touching touch the ground and assist air circulation around the bush in following years.<br /> <br /> <br /> Trim the bottom end of the cutting with a clean horizontal cut and bury about 8 inches deep in a mixture of sharp sand and soil. Firm the ground around the cutting to prevent winter frost penetration from lifting the cutting or damaging future root development.<br /> <br /> If you make a slit trench in the ground and plant half a dozen cuttings, by next spring you should hopefully get at least half to root and begin growing.<br /> <br /> Its best to leave the cutting where they are in their first season, so that they can develop a healthy root system. They can be dug up as fully formed small plants in October, a year after you originally planted them as twigs.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:44:45Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> Taking cutting to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate and stick it in a hole with some sharp sand to ensure good drainage.<br /> <br /> <br /> More precise details include:<br /> <br /> Remove the top 2 or 3 inches of cutting by cutting at an angle next to, but sloping away from a bud. An angled cut like this will help winter rain to run away from the bud and prevent it rotting in its first winter.<br /> <br /> <br /> Remove all buds on the cutting except for the top 3, which will ensure your new plants have a good length of stem. This will help to prevent fruiting branches touching touch the ground and assist air circulation around the bush in following years.<br /> <br /> <br /> Trim the bottom end of the cutting with a clean horizontal cut and bury about 8 inches deep in a mixture of sharp sand and soil. Firm the ground around the cutting to prevent winter frost penetration from lifting the cutting or damaging future root development.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:29:20Z

<p>John h: /* Propergation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> Taking cutting to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propagate<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:27:38Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propergation ==<br /> <br /> Taking cutting to grow new gooseberry plants is very easy. As soon as the leaves have fallen in October simply cut an 18 inch length of this years growth from the plant you want to propergate<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:20:52Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of fruit to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|200px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:20:22Z

<p>John h: /* Propagation */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of fruit to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|280px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T17:08:17Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> == Propagation ==<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[IImage:GooseberryCutting.JPG|none|thumb|280px|Demijohns used as cloches]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of fruit to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:GooseberryCutting.JPG File:GooseberryCutting.JPG 2006-03-03T17:03:47Z

<p>John h: Gooseberry cutting planted in October 2005 and photographed in early March 06. Taken in Hastings, East Sussex</p> <hr /> <div>Gooseberry cutting planted in October 2005 and photographed in early March 06. Taken in Hastings, East Sussex</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Gooseberries Gooseberries 2006-03-03T16:57:29Z

<p>John h: Page set up</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of fruit to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Redcurrants Redcurrants 2006-03-03T16:56:56Z

<p>John h: page set up</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of fruit to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of fruit to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Garlic Garlic 2006-03-01T19:39:50Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Garlic1.JPG|none|thumb|280px|Garlic planted in late October 2005, photographed early March 06]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Garlic1.JPG File:Garlic1.JPG 2006-03-01T19:36:22Z

<p>John h: Garlic planted in SE England in a raised bed in October and photographed on 1st March 06</p> <hr /> <div>Garlic planted in SE England in a raised bed in October and photographed on 1st March 06</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-03-01T15:05:54Z

<p>John h: /* Poached Egg Plant */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting at this time will let the sun warm the soil for seed sowing several weeks later. <br /> <br /> Harvesting seed<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flower in late May, so small amounts can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Spread a narrow sheet or fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower, this will make a significant difference to the amount of seeds you are able to collect, since ordinarily the seeds are not held in pods on the plant but fall directly to the ground as soon at they have matured.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes. Open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Spinach Spinach 2006-03-01T14:35:02Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Spinachfeb063gc.jpg|none|thumb|280px|Spinach - photo taken Feb 06]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Spinachfeb063gc.jpg File:Spinachfeb063gc.jpg 2006-03-01T14:31:27Z

<p>John h: Spinach - photo taken Feb 2003</p> <hr /> <div>Spinach - photo taken Feb 2003</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Clearing_a_new_allotment Clearing a new allotment 2006-02-28T16:06:18Z

<p>John h: /* Covering with black plastic, cardboard etc */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]]<br /> <br /> == Introduction ==<br /> <br /> One of the most common reasons why new allotmenteers give up in their first season is the daunting task of cultivating an entire overgrown plot. Understanding different techniques for clearing some parts of a plot and simply keeping other parts 'in check' by stopping futher undesirable weed growth, can be an important part of helping to set realistic goals, reduce unnecessary discouragement and increase active allotment participation.<br /> <br /> === Bit at a time ===<br /> <br /> New allotments are not cleared in a day. Unless you are very lucky your first plot will have a covering of both [[perennial weeds]] and [[annual weeds]] when you first get it. The perennial weeds should be disposed of carefully, since they have the capacity to re-root and grow again if dug back into the soil.<br /> <br /> <br /> Do not add perennial weeds directly to your [[compost]] heap unless all light is excluded and you intend the heap to be left for a couple of years before using the contents. Other ways of dealing with perennial weeds include either burning/binning, or submerging in a spare water butt until they rot down completely. The resulting liquid can then be used as a liquid feed, or tipped onto the compost heap as a wetter/activator in the summer.<br /> <br /> === Covering with black plastic, cardboard etc ===<br /> <br /> If sections of your allotment are not going to be dug in the near future but you want to bring them into cultivation at a later date, you could consider covering these areas with black plastic, cardboard, carpets made of natural fibre or any other light excluding material which does not pollute the soil.<br /> <br /> Remember that winter winds can be quite strong, so any material used to cover the earth will need to be pegged down at the edges and weighed down with heavy objects such as bricks or 'soil bags'.<br /> <br /> To make soil bags, simply fill one bag with soil and tie a knot in the top, then put this in another carrier bag so that you have a couple of handles to move it about with. When you have finished with the weights you just cut holes in the bag, empty the soil back onto the allotment and bin the old carrier bags.<br /> <br /> <br /> Also remember that some materials, like polythene, can also be degraded by UV light so may crumble up and present further difficulties if left in the open for very long amounts of time. After a year most growth will have disappeared from under a lightproof covering and much of the hard work involved in clearing this area of weeds will then no longer be necessary.<br /> <br /> Some allotmenteers choose to cover bare soil with light proof plastic over winter to protect against the leeching effect of heavy rain which may otherwise wash away soil nutrients that other plants could benefit from next year. Another way of doing this is to use a [[Green manure]] between sowings of other crops.<br /> <br /> Land may also be returned to cultivation using a method referred to as 'lasagna gardening'. This involves ..... (insert text from forum and link to permaculture website)<br /> <br /> === Rotovating ===<br /> <br /> Whether to rotovate or not appears to be a personal thing, below are listed two points for and two against from the A4A forum.<br /> Point 1<br /> Two things, <br /> 1. yes rotovating does spread weeds (especially bind weed), but the ground is so broken up that they can be pulled by hand quite easily. <br /> 2. The rotovator blades form a '[[Hard Pan]]' at the bottom of the trench over a period of time which can seriously affect the drainage of the ground and also the plants ability to access trace elements in the sub soil. Every 5 years drive a stake appox 2' into the ground every foot or so and wriggle around to break the 'Hard Pan' up.<br /> <br /> A rotovator is great for creating a fine [[tilth]], mixing in [[compost]], [[manure]] etc but for 'digging' compacted earth it is as hard or sometimes harder than digging using a spade.<br /> <br /> Point 2<br /> but it was rotovated - twice in the space of a month or so - before I took it over. I don't know if it was done very badly or very well, but what I have is gorgeous friable soil that's full of worms and dead easy to work. Some of the beds that I'm digging over by hand are full of bloody great roots and others aren't. <br /> <br /> What it seems to have done for me is given me a plot that's much less scary than it would have been otherwise without vastly increasing the weeds (as everybody warns that it does). As above, you do still have to put the backache in; I'm going through each bed by hand and rarely clear more than one each weekend. I'll be lucky to have the whole plot rough dug by spring. But because of the rotavation I've managed to sow some rye grass that seems to be competing with the couch and bindweed, and I'm digging ground that even now, two months on, seems like more earth than weeds.<br /> <br /> Point 3<br /> When I got my latest plot it coincided with another new owner at the other end of the field. <br /> <br /> Much to my husband's chagrin I insisted that we clear the plot by hand, digging over, bed by bed freeing all the couch and bindweed roots as we went. Allotmenteer number two took the rotavator approach, my hubbie was deeply jealous of the sight of man and machine pitted against the ravages of nature.<br /> <br /> Two years later we have a neat(ish) and productive plot, full of veg, fruit and flowers. We still struggle daily with the bindweed - as do most of us- but things are well with the plot.<br /> <br /> Allotmenteer number two has a disaster area of pernicious weeds, lumps and bumps where yet another time/labour saving idea has gone wrong - (dig below the level of the weeds and seive all the soil back into the hole - I don't think so). More importantly to me, he has not harvested so much as a bean from the plot.<br /> <br /> I cannot count the number of times over this year, as the sun has set over the rhubarb, that my husband has said "do you know, I'm glad we did the thing properly" <br /> <br /> Point 4<br /> If your plot is mostly weeds, as most are, then you will just exacerbate the problem by chopping them into zillions of little pieces and digging them back in. <br /> You need to cut weeds back by strimming first. then you could cover up with sheet mulch etc and just prepare one bed at a time. this way the rest of the plot is slumbering under black plastic or cardboard and not getting any worse while you tackle a bed. You can then either weed kill your bed with glyphos and wait til it does its thing (about 3 weeks ish) then dig and get all the couch roots out, or go for no dig [[Lasagne Gardening]] method <br /> There's no need to try and do all the plot at once - it's not going anywhere and I'd resist the urge to try. You're more likely to stick at it if you do it in manageable chunks, eg a bed at a time.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-02-27T13:03:04Z

<p>John h: /* Poached Egg Plant */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and then skimmed off the soil with a sharp spade in late March. Harvesting and composting at this time will let the sun warm the soil for seed sewing several weeks later. <br /> <br /> Harvesting seed<br /> <br /> Limanthus normally flower in late May, so small amounts can be left to flower and the seeds gathered for resowing later the same year. Spread a narrow sheet or fine netting underneath the plants just before they flower, this will make a significant difference to the amount of seeds you are able to collect, since ordinarily the seeds are not held in pods on the plant but fall directly to the ground as soon at they have matured.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is also a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes. Open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvae are significant greenfly preditors.<br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Green_manure Green manure 2006-02-27T12:51:12Z

<p>John h: /* Poached Egg Plant */</p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[Methods of cultivation]] <br /> <br /> ==Introduction==<br /> <br /> Most green manures are sown in spring to be dug in during the autumn, or planted in the autumn to over winter. Also you need to keep in mind that after it has been dug in, the ground needs to be left for usually a minimum of a couple of weeks before planting. Of course, it depends how much later in the year you're thinking of growing your veg<br /> <br /> This website is quite useful in sowing times: http://www.btinternet.com/~bury_rd/green.htm and scroll down to the table. It's helpful, but not extensive, there are many more green manures, have a google for it.<br /> <br /> ==Crops Used and Details==<br /> <br /> ===Alfalfa===<br /> <br /> Alfalfa is quite a quick growing green manure and very deep rooted. This means it has the ability to draw up nutrients from a long way down in the sub-soil to add to your allotment.<br /> <br /> ===Buckwheat===<br /> <br /> Buckwheat can be sown between March - August. It has pretty pale pink flowers that attract hoverflies.<br /> <br /> ===Mustard===<br /> <br /> Mustard is terrifcally fast, 2-8 weeks<br /> <br /> ===Red Clover===<br /> <br /> Can be sown in the spring to be dug in during Autumn or sown in Autumn for digging in during the spring. Sweetens and also helps to lighten heavy soils and provide a great deal of humus. 100g for 400sq. ft.<br /> <br /> ===Poached Egg Plant===<br /> <br /> <div style="float:right;width:280px;"><br /> [[Image:Limanthus.jpg|none|thumb|280px|A block of Limanthus sown in September as a trial to see how effective it is as a green manure and ground cover. ]]<br /> </div><br /> <br /> Can be sown in September to 'over winter' and be harvested in April. Normally will flower in May so small amounts can always be left to flower and seeds gathered to be resown later the same year.<br /> <br /> Limanthus is a particularly useful low growing companion plant for fruit bushes. Open faced yellow and white flowers provide easily accessible nectar for hover flies, whose larvi are greenfly preditors.<br /> [[Image:Limanthus2.jpg|left|thumb|280px|Limanthus in flower. ]]<br /> </div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/File:Limanthus2.jpg File:Limanthus2.jpg 2006-02-27T12:49:18Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Mung_bean Mung bean 2006-02-26T10:57:57Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Runner_bean Runner bean 2006-02-26T10:57:29Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Rocket Rocket 2006-02-26T10:56:29Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/mediawiki/index.php/Spinach Spinach 2006-02-26T10:56:01Z

<p>John h: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Main Page]]<br /> <br /> [[List of vegetables to grow]]<br /> <br /> [[Monthly planner]]<br /> <br /> <br /> -----------<br /> reason for present empty page<br /> <br /> Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the [[List of vegetables to grow]] and the [[Monthly planner]]. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.<br /> <br /> If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'<br /> <br /> As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.</div>

John h