Allotments4All - User contributions [en-gb]

Main Page

2006-10-11T06:32:29Z

Mikeb:

=== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ===

It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.

The first question, must be, what are [[Allotments]]?

=== Contents ===

*[[FAQ]]

*[[Edible plants]]

*[[Growing under glass]]

*[[Kept animals]]

*[[Local Allotment Associations]]

*[[Making things]] out of other things

*[[Methods of cultivation]]

*[[Monthly planner]]

*[[Non edible plants]]

*[[Perennial weeds]]

*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*[[Seeds]]

*[[Water]] - collecting and saving

*[[Wiki Commands]]

*[[Wildlife]]

=== How to make your own contributions ===

Click below to start playing...

*[[Sandbox]]

Please only post public domain material. Just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's not under copyright. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!!

Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.

Main Page

2006-10-11T06:31:23Z

Mikeb:

=== Welcome to the Allotments 4 All wiki ===

It is hoped that this wiki will become a repository for useful information about allotments and gardening.

The first question, must be, what are [[Allotments]]?

=== Contents ===

*[[FAQ]]

*[[Edible plants]]

*[[Non edible plants]]

*[[Growing under glass]]

*[[Kept animals]]

*[[Local Allotment Associations]]

*[[Making things]] out of other things

*[[Methods of cultivation]]

*[[monthly planner]]

*[[Perennial weeds]]

*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*[[Seeds]]

*[[Water]] - collecting and saving

*[[Wiki Commands]]

*[[Wildlife]]

=== How to make your own contributions ===

Click below to start playing...

*[[Sandbox]]

Please only post public domain material. Just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's not under copyright. As a rule of thumb, always label where something has come from if you're unsure and haven't written it yourself. Writing it yourself is fine!!

Please see [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_i18n documentation on customizing the interface]
and the [http://meta.wikipedia.org/wiki/MediaWiki_User%27s_Guide User's Guide] for usage and configuration help.

Parsnip

2006-05-08T17:57:42Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

==Planting==

For anyone who's had problems - like me last year - with parsnips either not growing very large, or growing like alien multi-legged tennis balls (!!), I suggest you try what I did this year:

Get a big stake or fence post
Chanfer off the corners to give you a reasonable point
Push about 12"-15" into the ground, twist a bit, then pull out
Fill hole with bagged compopst mixed about 3 parts compost to 2 parts sand
Sow two seeds on the top of the compost/sand mix
Make the next hole aobut 6" away from the edge of the first.
Repeat.
Cover the whole lot with a very thin sprinkling of more compost and sand mix

When they germinate, remove the weakest looking seedling (if both germinate)

I did this for the first time this year - to much ridicule from one of my fellow plot holders - and also sowed another lot as normal, in the same raised bed or well sifted soil.

Results?

The parsnips sown in the dibbed holes we universally long, straight and nearly all a decent size (about 10" to 12" long, about 2" to 3" across at the top.

The others grew well, but several are small and stunted, several have multiple appendages, and none are as big as the other lot.

All were Tender & True.

Parsnip

2006-05-08T17:57:17Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

Retrieved from "http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/joomla/components/com_mambowiki/index.php/Parsnip"

==Planting==

For anyone who's had problems - like me last year - with parsnips either not growing very large, or growing like alien multi-legged tennis balls (!!), I suggest you try what I did this year:

Get a big stake or fence post
Chanfer off the corners to give you a reasonable point
Push about 12"-15" into the ground, twist a bit, then pull out
Fill hole with bagged compopst mixed about 3 parts compost to 2 parts sand
Sow two seeds on the top of the compost/sand mix
Make the next hole aobut 6" away from the edge of the first.
Repeat.
Cover the whole lot with a very thin sprinkling of more compost and sand mix

When they germinate, remove the weakest looking seedling (if both germinate)

I did this for the first time this year - to much ridicule from one of my fellow plot holders - and also sowed another lot as normal, in the same raised bed or well sifted soil.

Results?

The parsnips sown in the dibbed holes we universally long, straight and nearly all a decent size (about 10" to 12" long, about 2" to 3" across at the top.

The others grew well, but several are small and stunted, several have multiple appendages, and none are as big as the other lot.

All were Tender & True.

Making things

2006-05-08T17:55:58Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

==Creative Options ==
This page contains guidance and photos of practical allotment equipment that you can make at low cost from either new materials or recycled items.

==Bell Cloches from Demijohns ==

<div style="float:right;width:280px;">
[[Image:Demijohns.jpg|none|thumb|280px|Demijohns used as cloches]]
</div>

All you need is one of those hand held glass cutters with the little wheel on it and a work bench or a table top vice so you can clamp the glass cutter with the wheel rotating horizontally about an inch off the work surface.

With the glass cutter firmly clamped in place you score the groove around the bottle by resting it on the work surface and then rotating it while pressing it against the cutter wheel. Try and get a single score mark which is joined up all the way around

Then you need to fashion youself something like a quarter of an inch thick metal rod with a slight bend about a couple of centimetres from one end. The shape and length of this is quite important since you are going to use to stick down the inside of the demijohn.

You use this to tap lightly at the score line from the inside of the bottle. If you tap fairly lightly you will get a slight crack forming at that point. Then you move another half a centimetre along the score line and tap again and the crack will follow the line you have scored on the outside of the bottle ( I know, I didn't believe it either but if you are gentle with the tapping the crack will run true and follow the score line).

As you work you way round the sound made by the tapping starts to get quite dull, which is a warning that both parts will soon part company. When the crack is completely joined up, your new bell jar will part company with your new flowerpot tray!

Tip: Giving the demijohn bit of a wash in warm water helps and working in the warm also makes the glass a bit easier to work with too.

For safety sake you may want to think about using rubber gloves and wearing goggles or glasses when you are cutting the glass. Also you can give the bottom edges of the demijonn a good twist on sandy soil to make them less sharp.

If you don't have any demijohns its worth keeping your eyes open at the local glass recycling point.

As an alternative to tapping from the inside, tie a single line of string around the cut, soak in lighter fuel, put the jar on it's side and ignite the fuel. As soon as the flames die out dunk the jar bottom first in some cold water, and the base usually cracks right off. I say usually because there are sometimes flaws in the glass. A slightly riskier method certainly, but immensly satisfying when it works. Needless to say, Gloves, Mask, Goggles !!

== Hosepipe joints to make bamboo arches ==

<div style="float:left;width:150px;">
[[Image:Hosejoints.JPG|none|thumb|150px|Hosepipe Arches]]
</div>

You can use short bits of hose pipe as 'universal joints' between bamboo canes. A bit of pipe with two 6 foot canes poked in the ends will help to make and easy build 'A' frame or an archway over the path between two raised beds, (very handy way to use redundant space and sunlight for growing [[Runner beans]] or Climbing [[French beans]] over). Three short bits of bamboo joined by two bits of hose pipe can be used as a low frame to cover any beds which low growing soft fruit is planted in.

-

==Origami Plant Pots==

There are quite a few different ways of making flowerpots out of newspaper, smaller ones can be made using a 'former' and larger square pots can be made using the following method -
http://www.geocities.com/newspaperpots/

==Plant Pots from Plastic Milk Containers ==

<div style="float:left;width:200px;">
[[Image:Milkpot1.jpg|none|thumb|200px|Your starting material]]
</div>

By following the diagrams below you can use 4 pint containers to create your own pots. These will have the benefit of having their own drip trays which means they can be stored indoors without mess.

By using the top half of the container the handle hole can serve as a capillary for water and feed, a few holes can also be drilled in the screw cap for drainage.

{|
|+'''Plant Pots'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot2.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 1]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot3.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 2]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot4.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 3]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot5.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 4]]
|-
|
|-

|}

==Levelling strip==

<div style="float:middle;width:500px;">
[[Image:Levellingstrip.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]
</div>

==Planting grids==

<div style="float:left;width:500px;">
[[Image:Planting grids (600 x 449).jpg|none|thumb|500px|Trellis used as planting grids]]
</div>

==Cloches==

[[Image:CL1.jpg|left|thumb|300px|]]

*Firstly what you will need:
*Row of fleece
*Garden string, preferably polypropylene
*3mm or 4mm galvanised wire, not too thick or you will have a problem bending it.
*Pliers and wire cutters
*Scissors or a knife.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL2.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

First step is to cut the wire into lengths about 14 to 16 inches longer than the width of the fleece.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL3.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Bend the wire into a hoop and at each end make a full twist, leaving a leg of about 4 to 6 inches below the loop. The leg is driven into the soil so if you are in a very exposed area you might want to cut the wire longer.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL4.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut a piece of string long enough to tie from one twist, stretching to the other twist, leaving enough spare to allow you can tie it.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL5.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Place each hoop over the crop row, driving the legs into the ground. Place a hoop about each 3 foot along the row.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL6.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut the fleece to length, allow about 20 inches over the length of the row. Bunch the ends and tie. Stake one end of the fleece at the end of the row and stretch the over the hoops to the other end of the row. Stake this end as well.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL7.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Finally take the string and bring it over the top of the fleece and tie to the other twist in the wire so the string holds the fleece to the hoop. This stops the fleece billowing around too much in the wind. I also place clods of earth along the bottom sides of the fleece to keep it tight to the ground.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL8.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

If you need access to the crop it is the work of seconds to lift one side of the fleece. No need to untie anything or remove the hoops. I leave the cloche in place until harvest.
The wire hoops last years and I tend to get 2 years out of my fleece. Still far cheaper than bought cloches and it certainly keeps carrot fly at bay and gives good crops! You could also use environ mesh as this will allow more rain through which may be a factor early on during germination.{{clr}}

==Cold Frame==

[[Image:coldframe4kj.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

==Parsnip Planter==

[[Image:Parsnip planter.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

Tomato

2006-05-02T10:18:42Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

'''Sowing'''

* Seed depth: 13mm
* Germination soil temperature: 27C
* Days to germinate: 6-8
* Sow indoors: 6-7 weeks before last frost
* Sow outdoors: Not recommended for the indeterminates (vine) types due to the short growing season, use determinates (bush)
* Plant outdoors: After all danger of frost has past

'''Growing'''

* pH range: 5.8-7.0
* Growing soil temperature: 21C
* Spacing in beds: 38cm supported, 60cm unsupported bush, 90cm unsupported vines
* Watering: Moderate to high during growth, low during harvest
* Light: Full sun
* Nutrient requirements: N=high; P=high, K=high
* Rotation considerations: Avoid following potatoes, peppers or aubergines
* Good companions: Cabbage family, carrot, celery dwarf bean, lettuce, onion, pepper
* Bad companions: Dill, fennel, potato, runner bean
* Seed Longevity: 4 years

Compliments of Rennee's Garden

http://www.reneesgarden.com

==Starting Tomato Seeds Indoors==

Generally, the time to start your seeds is about 6- 8 weeks before the last expected spring frost date in your area, planting the seedlings outdoors about 2 weeks after that date. Another way to figure is to plan on setting out sturdy seedlings in the garden when night temperatures stay in the mid-50 degree range both day and night. Count back and sow seeds 6 to 8 weeks before that date normally arrives.{{clr}}

[[Image:T1-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Starting indoors, in a container of well moistened, sterile seed-starting mix, make shallow furrows with a pencil or chopstick about 1/4 in. deep. Sow seeds by dropping them along the bottom of the furrows 1/2 in. apart.{{clr}}

[[Image:T2-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Gently pinch together soil to cover each furrow, covering seeds 1/4 in. deep. Water gently and label each variety. Put container in a warm place, 75-80˚ F. As soon as seed begin germinating and stems start to show above the soil, it's critical to provide a strong light source such as florescent bulbs or a very sunny window.{{clr}}

[[Image:3a-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Day 7 - Seedlings have germinated. First to appear are "baby" or "cotyledon" leaves. Careful labeling of each variety is important as they all look alike.{{clr}}

[[Image:3b-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Day 15 - Seedlings are still tiny with just baby cotyledon leaves, but growing well. Note the nice green color of the baby leaves. This indicates that plants are getting enough bright light to thrive.{{clr}}

[[Image:T3-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Day 30 - The first set of "true" tomato leaves begin to appear above the baby cotyledon leaves. The best example of this is in front of the pencil eraser in this picture.{{clr}}

[[Image:T4-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Now that true leaves have emerged on all the seedlings, it's time to transplant seedlings to larger individual containers so they have enough room to properly grow and develop. This process is called "pricking out" the seedlings.{{clr}}

[[Image:T5-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

To "prick out": lift seedlings from below, holding each one gently by their baby cotyledon leaves and scooping up entire soil ball from below. We find an old fork works well for this.{{clr}}

[[Image:T6-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

If roots have grown together into a clump, gently tease seedlings apart, holding by baby cotyledon leaves.{{clr}}

[[Image:T7-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Transplant each seedling into its own container (at least 3-4 in. in diameter) filled with good quality, well moistened potting mix. Make a hole to receive each seedling.{{clr}}

[[Image:T8-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Insert each seedling into the hole to the base of its cotyledon leaves.{{clr}}

[[Image:T9-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Tomato seedlings will readily grow new roots along their buried stems and the resulting plants will be sturdy and vigorous. Gently water in the seedlings to settle the plants.{{clr}}

[[Image:T11-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Here are examples of what healthy and cold stressed seedling look like. Remember that seedlings need to be kept at about 65 - 70 degrees after they have true leaves and until they are ready to go into the garden.{{clr}}

[[Image:4a-tomato-harden-1-.jpg |left|thumb|280px|]]

When spring weather has warmed up and night temperatures are regularly in the 55 degree range, it's time to plant well rooted, established seedlings outdoors. First plan to acclimate your plants: move them outside into the sun, first for a few hours , then gradually increasing over a weeks' time until they are in full sun all day. this process is called "hardening off" and it avoids transplant shock.{{clr}}

[[Image:4aa-tomato-trim-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

At transplanting time, if hardened off young plants are more than 6 in. tall, remove the bottom branches before planting. New roots will form along the buried stem.{{clr}}

[[Image:4ab-tomato-hole-1-.jpg |left|thumb|280px|]]

Prepare the hole to receive the seedling.{{clr}}

[[Image:4ac-tomato-tip-1-.jpg|right|thumb|280px|]]

Tip out plant by overturning pot to squeeze or tap out the entire root ball. Note the snipped off lower branches on this example ready to go into the ground.{{clr}}

[[Image:4ad-tomato-plant-1-.jpg|left|thumb|280px|]]

Settle the seedling into the hole, so the entire stem will be covered up to where leafy branches begin. Pull soil around the plant and firm.{{clr}}

[[Image:4af-tomato-cage-1-.jpg |right|thumb|280px|]]

Water gently but thoroughly and erect your tomato supports. Be sure they are well secured, because your plants will grow large and heavy with fruit, so you will need strong support for the branches.{{clr}}

==Growing methods==

There are three cultural systems for growing garden tomatoes. They include; untrained and sprawling, staked and tied, and caged. Each system has it's advantages and disadvantages. Choose the system that works best in your garden situation.

Tomatoes can be allowed to sprawl on the ground. The advantage to this method is that the tomatoes are more productive. Yields can be as high as 25 pounds of tomatoes per bush. The fruit are not particularly large, but they are numerous.

When tomatoes are allowed to sprawl, a mulch must be placed over the soil underneath plants. This prevents the fruit from laying directly on the soil where it is exposed to insects and soil fungi. Straw mulch is best for tomatoes. It is soft, light and airy; keeping the fruit cushioned and dry. Straw bales can be purchased at local feed stores. A bale goes a long way, so if you have just a few tomato plants most feed stores will sell you a smaller amount of loose straw. Bring your own bag(s) to fill up. Straw is great for mulching other summer vegetables too.

Letting your tomatoes sprawl has it's drawbacks. For instance, they take up lots of garden space; maybe more than you have to spare. Tomatoes grown in a sprawling fashion are more directly exposed to the mid-day sun. This can cause tomatoes to become sunburnt. The fruit most exposed to direct sunlight will develop a large, buff-colored blotch. A rot may then develop in this damaged portion of the fruit.

Tomatoes can also be trained by staking and tying. Place the stake in the ground at the time of planting or shortly after so as not to do damage the roots. The stake should be located within a few inches of the main stem. Use a stake large enough and tall enough to support the weight and height of your plants. Tomatoes can grow up to five feet tall and three feet wide. Large wooden poles of the kind used for staking young trees also work very well for supporting tomatoes.

Tie the main stem of the tomato to the stake using soft cord or stretchable plastic plant ties. To prevent the stem from being held tightly against the stake, loop the tie around the stem. Then tie it on the stake providing some slack in the line.

The great advantage to staking tomatoes is conservation of space. Fruits are larger and easier to pick, however, the number of fruit and total yield is smaller than with sprawling or caging. Staking works best on vining types of tomatoes.

Growing tomatoes in cages may be the best compromise between letting your plants run free or staking them tightly. Most varieties are suitable for caging. Yields are nearly as great as if plants are allowed to sprawl and fruit ripens the best in hot weather.

You can make your own tomato cage by forming a piece of concrete reinforcing wire or wide-mesh fencing into a cylinder about 3 feet wide. Taller cages will require a stakes or a post for support.

Regardless of the type of growing system you incorporate, always mulch under your tomato plants. Mulching keeps the soil cooler and helps hold in moisture. This helps to prevent fruit cracking and blossom-end-rot by keeping soil moisture levels even. Organic mulches such as straw and bagged or home compost work best.

==Grow Tomatoes Like Never Before==

Free and simple, the Power Tomatoes System will allow you to feed the soil using only minimal amounts of fertilizer!

Best of all, plan for a bumper crop of everybody's favorite midsummer crop!

Whether you're a backyard vegetable gardener or a commercial producer, you can do it yourself—almost effortlessly!

Transplant your seedlings into a home-grown cover crop which you convert into a soil-feeding mulch by mowing!

This simple system, which works well for other vegetables too, was developed by scientists at U.S. Department of Agriculture's Agricultural Research Service in Beltsville, Maryland.
To grow tomatoes like never before, carefully follow these directions according to the given timetable:

September

The first step toward a bumper crop beyond your wildest dreams is taken in early September when you prepare permanent raised tomato beds. If you're trying this method for the first time, use an inoculum to establish the proper soil bacteria.

Seed the beds with hairy vetch, a winter-hardy legume that's becoming widely available. Do this about 2 months before winter freezeup. Seedlings will emerge within 1 week. When the first frost arrives, your plants will be 5 to 6 inches tall.

Above ground, these skinny little vines will form a mat, but underground is where the real magic happens. Down below, the root systems, all this time, have been growing into an extensive network. Foliage and root systems will be working together, above and below ground, to hold the soil firmly and stop erosion.

Below-freezing weather will cause the vetch vines to become dormant, but never fear. With the arrival of Spring, the vines will experience reinvigorated growth.

Now that wasn't too tough. And the good news is you’re finished until May. Go clean, sharpen, and oil your gardening tools. Maybe leaf through a gardening catalog or two. Take a nap…

May

By May, individual vines will be 4 or 5 feet long and form thick stands about 2 feet high. Now it's time to kill them.

Yes, I said kill them!

Determine your ideal planting time. The day before, go out and buy however many tomato seedlings you're prepared to cultivate.

Then mow the vetch (a high-speed flail mower is recommended) and leave the residue in place on the beds. For the next several months, the dead vines are going to form a nutritious organic blanket that will snuggle up to your tomato plants (keeping out weeds) and gradually break down into soil nutrients.

Tomorrow you'll transplant young tomato plants right through the mulch residue and into the underlying soil.

Moisture is vital, so you'll need to irrigate. Immediately after planting, install trickle irrigation lines on top of the vetch and 3 to 4 inches from the tomato row. Fix them in place with U-shaped wires.

Fertilizers? A good stand of vetch provides sufficient nitrogen to meet from half to all the nitrogen needed by tomatoes. As for phosphorus, potassium, and essential micronutrients, it's best to have your soil tested—and supplement according to the soil's specific needs.

June…and Beyond

During the first month after mowing, expect the vetch mulch to suppress weed emergence. After that, as the decomposition of the residue advances, weed seedlings are likely to emerge.

One herbicidal application of 0.5 pound active ingredient of metribuzin per acre should do the trick, applied 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting. (Your nursery professional can help compute the quantity needed for small applications.) This application will also kill any regrowth from the mowed vetch plants.

By summer's end, your tomato plants will bear an abundance of fruit, the organic mulch will decompose to a fare-thee-well, and the year will have come full circle.

Mow the old tomato plants and leave them in the field to decompose like the vetch mulch.

Now it's time to reseed with... you guessed it… more hairy vetch!

Growing under glass

2006-04-21T10:34:06Z

Mikeb: /* A mix of 2 & 3 */

[[Main Page]]

[[Methods of cultivation]]

Basic Requirements to be considered when growing under glass.

==Temperature & heating==

Electric heaters

These are usually very efficient and effective and quite easy to install. There are several types from tubular heaters, fan heaters and warming cables, either air or soil.

===Good points===

*Clean
*Keeps air circulating
*No fuel storage needed
*Dry heat, reduces the chance of fungus
*Easily controlled e.g. thermostats, timers

===Bad points===

*Requires electricity which can be expensive to install.
*Expensive to run, although other forms of heating are no longer the cheap alternative that they used to be.
*Possibities of power cuts.
*Chance of damaging the cable run to the greenhouse with a spade etc.

==Ventilation==

==Humidity==

==Pests & Diseases==

==Light and shading==

==Hygiene==

==Feeding==

==Planting==

Planting choices

=== Growbags and Pots===
=== Directly into the border===
=== Ring Culture===

A shallow trench is dug out in a border, lined with polythene and filled in with gravel (a large gravel filled tray can also be used). A nine-inch bottomless pot is filled with soil, planted with the tomato seedling and placed on the gravel bed.

The tomatoes are watered from the bottom via the gravel bed and fed via the pot. This way the tomatoes have a free draining system with water and feed available to the plants as and when they need to take it up.
At the end of the year, remove the plants and pots. Fill a watering can with jaye's fluid, dilute as per the instructions, and water the gravel to kill off any germs and disease. One disease free greenhouse.

===A mix of 2 & 3===

[[Image:Ring culture.jpg]]
[[image:Ring Culture1.jpg]]

Growing under glass

2006-04-21T10:33:07Z

Mikeb: /* A mix of 2 & 3 */

File:Ring Culture1.jpg

2006-04-21T10:32:19Z

Mikeb:

Marrow

2006-04-04T09:22:04Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

'''Sowing'''

* Seed depth: xxmm
* Germination soil temperature: xxC
* Days to germinate:
* Sow indoors:
* Sow outdoors:
* Plant outdoors:

'''Growing'''

* pH range:
* Growing soil temperature: xxC
* Spacing in beds:
* Watering:
* Light:
* Nutrient requirements: N=; P=, K=
* Rotation considerations:
* Good companions:
* Bad companions:
* Seed Longevity:

Marrows all belong to the Gourd section of the Cucumber family and are basically grown in the same way. The plants take a up a lot of room. If you do not have a lot of ground to spare, just grow one of the Courgette varieties and towards the end of the season, allow a couple of the fruits to mature to full size Marrows.<br>
They need a sunny, sheltered position, as they are not hardy. The soil should be well drained and extremely rich in humus with a pH of around 6.0.<br>
Sow the seed in late April or early May, in pots of compost. Sow 2 seeds on their sides 1/2" deep in a 3" pot. Keep in a propagator or warm windowsill at 60F until germinated and then remove the weaker seedling. Plant out in the final growing position when all danger of frost has passed.<br>
Alternatively sow pairs of seeds directly where they are to grow, removing the weaker seedling on germination, 2 weeks before the last frosts and protect with a cloche.
Plant out 2' apart.<br>
Keep the plants free of weeds and well watered.<br>
Towards the end of the season the Marrows can be cut and left in the sun to ripen and then put into storage for winter use.

Marrow

2006-04-04T09:21:42Z

Mikeb:

Peach leaf curl

2006-04-03T10:01:19Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Fungus
*Order: Taphrinales
*Scientific name: Taphrina deformans
*English name: Peach leaf curl

Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology: This is an obligate parasitic fungus, which over-winters in cracks in the bark on peach, Prunus persica and almond, Prunus dulcis. As temperatures rise in spring, and the leaf buds start to open, rain washes the fungus spores onto the leaves. When temperatures are in the range 50-70oC the fungus enters the leaf by means of extending root-like structures called haustoria, and feeds on nutrients within the leaf. It is thought that the fungus promotes auxin-like and cytokinin-like compounds, or the leaf produces abnormal combinations of auxins and cytokinins, causing malformed development of the leaf in the form of warping and reddish blisters. A white spore bloom is produced in summer, and the spores are distributed in the wind, so at this point the fungus can freely travel to other trees in the vicinity.
Prevention and control treatments and methods.
Physical and cultural: Place a cover over the top of the tree during winter and spring to keep the branches dry. Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off any distorted leaves and dispose of them before the white bloom appears. Apply organic matter as a mulch, water and fertilise to keep the tree healthy. Select cultivars with some resistance, for example Prunus persica ‘Redhaven’.
Biological – together with benefits and limitations: None
Chemical: Apply as a spray over the entire tree, a fungicide containing copper, such as Bordeaux mixture or containing mancozeb, such as Dithane 945. These must be applied before the leaves emerge and according to the recommended timing instructions provided by the manufacturer. They are not effective once the fungus has attacked the leaves.
Legislative: None
How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant: Leaves are damaged and unsightly, and will fall in severe infestations. Even though a fresh crop of leaves may appear, the tree will suffer stress and growth may be stunted. Heavy infestations will affect the peach fruit crop rendering it unfit for sale.

Making things

2006-03-28T09:51:56Z

Mikeb: /* Parsnip Planter */

[[Main Page]]

==Creative Options ==
This page contains guidance and photos of practical allotment equipment that you can make at low cost from either new materials or recycled items.

==Bell Cloches from Demijohns ==

<div style="float:right;width:280px;">
[[Image:Demijohns.jpg|none|thumb|280px|Demijohns used as cloches]]
</div>

All you need is one of those hand held glass cutters with the little wheel on it and a work bench or a table top vice so you can clamp the glass cutter with the wheel rotating horizontally about an inch off the work surface.

With the glass cutter firmly clamped in place you score the groove around the bottle by resting it on the work surface and then rotating it while pressing it against the cutter wheel. Try and get a single score mark which is joined up all the way around

Then you need to fashion youself something like a quarter of an inch thick metal rod with a slight bend about a couple of centimetres from one end. The shape and length of this is quite important since you are going to use to stick down the inside of the demijohn.

You use this to tap lightly at the score line from the inside of the bottle. If you tap fairly lightly you will get a slight crack forming at that point. Then you move another half a centimetre along the score line and tap again and the crack will follow the line you have scored on the outside of the bottle ( I know, I didn't believe it either but if you are gentle with the tapping the crack will run true and follow the score line).

As you work you way round the sound made by the tapping starts to get quite dull, which is a warning that both parts will soon part company. When the crack is completely joined up, your new bell jar will part company with your new flowerpot tray!

Tip: Giving the demijohn bit of a wash in warm water helps and working in the warm also makes the glass a bit easier to work with too.

For safety sake you may want to think about using rubber gloves and wearing goggles or glasses when you are cutting the glass. Also you can give the bottom edges of the demijonn a good twist on sandy soil to make them less sharp.

If you don't have any demijohns its worth keeping your eyes open at the local glass recycling point.

== Hosepipe joints to make bamboo arches ==

<div style="float:left;width:150px;">
[[Image:Hosejoints.JPG|none|thumb|150px|Hosepipe Arches]]
</div>

You can use short bits of hose pipe as 'universal joints' between bamboo canes. A bit of pipe with two 6 foot canes poked in the ends will help to make and easy build 'A' frame or an archway over the path between two raised beds, (very handy way to use redundant space and sunlight for growing [[Runner beans]] or Climbing [[French beans]] over). Three short bits of bamboo joined by two bits of hose pipe can be used as a low frame to cover any beds which low growing soft fruit is planted in.

-

==Origami Plant Pots==

There are quite a few different ways of making flowerpots out of newspaper, smaller ones can be made using a 'former' and larger square pots can be made using the following method -
http://www.geocities.com/newspaperpots/

==Plant Pots from Plastic Milk Containers ==

<div style="float:left;width:200px;">
[[Image:Milkpot1.jpg|none|thumb|200px|Your starting material]]
</div>

By following the diagrams below you can use 4 pint containers to create your own pots. These will have the benefit of having their own drip trays which means they can be stored indoors without mess.

By using the top half of the container the handle hole can serve as a capillary for water and feed, a few holes can also be drilled in the screw cap for drainage.

{|
|+'''Plant Pots'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot2.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 1]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot3.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 2]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot4.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 3]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot5.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 4]]
|-
|
|-

|}

==Levelling strip==

<div style="float:middle;width:500px;">
[[Image:Levellingstrip.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]
</div>

==Planting grids==

<div style="float:left;width:500px;">
[[Image:Planting grids (600 x 449).jpg|none|thumb|500px|Trellis used as planting grids]]
</div>

==Cloches==

[[Image:CL1.jpg|left|thumb|300px|]]

*Firstly what you will need:
*Row of fleece
*Garden string, preferably polypropylene
*3mm or 4mm galvanised wire, not too thick or you will have a problem bending it.
*Pliers and wire cutters
*Scissors or a knife.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL2.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

First step is to cut the wire into lengths about 14 to 16 inches longer than the width of the fleece.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL3.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Bend the wire into a hoop and at each end make a full twist, leaving a leg of about 4 to 6 inches below the loop. The leg is driven into the soil so if you are in a very exposed area you might want to cut the wire longer.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL4.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut a piece of string long enough to tie from one twist, stretching to the other twist, leaving enough spare to allow you can tie it.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL5.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Place each hoop over the crop row, driving the legs into the ground. Place a hoop about each 3 foot along the row.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL6.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut the fleece to length, allow about 20 inches over the length of the row. Bunch the ends and tie. Stake one end of the fleece at the end of the row and stretch the over the hoops to the other end of the row. Stake this end as well.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL7.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Finally take the string and bring it over the top of the fleece and tie to the other twist in the wire so the string holds the fleece to the hoop. This stops the fleece billowing around too much in the wind. I also place clods of earth along the bottom sides of the fleece to keep it tight to the ground.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL8.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

If you need access to the crop it is the work of seconds to lift one side of the fleece. No need to untie anything or remove the hoops. I leave the cloche in place until harvest.
The wire hoops last years and I tend to get 2 years out of my fleece. Still far cheaper than bought cloches and it certainly keeps carrot fly at bay and gives good crops! You could also use environ mesh as this will allow more rain through which may be a factor early on during germination.{{clr}}

==Cold Frame==

[[Image:coldframe4kj.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

==Parsnip Planter==

[[Image:Parsnip planter.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

==Planting==

For anyone who's had problems - like me last year - with parsnips either not growing very large, or growing like alien multi-legged tennis balls (!!), I suggest you try what I did this year:

Get a big stake or fence post
Chanfer off the corners to give you a reasonable point
Push about 12"-15" into the ground, twist a bit, then pull out
Fill hole with bagged compopst mixed about 3 parts compost to 2 parts sand
Sow two seeds on the top of the compost/sand mix
Make the next hole aobut 6" away from the edge of the first.
Repeat.
Cover the whole lot with a very thin sprinkling of more compost and sand mix

When they germinate, remove the weakest looking seedling (if both germinate)

I did this for the first time this year - to much ridicule from one of my fellow plot holders - and also sowed another lot as normal, in the same raised bed or well sifted soil.

Results?

The parsnips sown in the dibbed holes we universally long, straight and nearly all a decent size (about 10" to 12" long, about 2" to 3" across at the top.

The others grew well, but several are small and stunted, several have multiple appendages, and none are as big as the other lot.

All were Tender & True.

Parsnip

2006-03-28T09:51:25Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

reason for present empty page

Nothing has been written about this crop yet but I thought it would be a good idea to put the page up so that links to the same crop page develop in both the List of vegetables to grow and the Monthly planner. This should reduce the chance of us getting one page written as 'Tomato' and another written as 'Tomatoes' and another written as 'Tomato Plants'.

If its any help, titles for new pages in Wikipedia seem to include a capital letter on the first word of the title and all following letters are in lower case i.e. 'Brussels sprout' rather than 'Brussel Sprout' or 'brussels sprout'

As soon as the first crop details go on this page this bit of text can be dumped.

Retrieved from "http://www.allotments4all.co.uk/joomla/components/com_mambowiki/index.php/Parsnip"

Making things

2006-03-28T09:46:41Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

==Creative Options ==
This page contains guidance and photos of practical allotment equipment that you can make at low cost from either new materials or recycled items.

==Bell Cloches from Demijohns ==

<div style="float:right;width:280px;">
[[Image:Demijohns.jpg|none|thumb|280px|Demijohns used as cloches]]
</div>

All you need is one of those hand held glass cutters with the little wheel on it and a work bench or a table top vice so you can clamp the glass cutter with the wheel rotating horizontally about an inch off the work surface.

With the glass cutter firmly clamped in place you score the groove around the bottle by resting it on the work surface and then rotating it while pressing it against the cutter wheel. Try and get a single score mark which is joined up all the way around

Then you need to fashion youself something like a quarter of an inch thick metal rod with a slight bend about a couple of centimetres from one end. The shape and length of this is quite important since you are going to use to stick down the inside of the demijohn.

You use this to tap lightly at the score line from the inside of the bottle. If you tap fairly lightly you will get a slight crack forming at that point. Then you move another half a centimetre along the score line and tap again and the crack will follow the line you have scored on the outside of the bottle ( I know, I didn't believe it either but if you are gentle with the tapping the crack will run true and follow the score line).

As you work you way round the sound made by the tapping starts to get quite dull, which is a warning that both parts will soon part company. When the crack is completely joined up, your new bell jar will part company with your new flowerpot tray!

Tip: Giving the demijohn bit of a wash in warm water helps and working in the warm also makes the glass a bit easier to work with too.

For safety sake you may want to think about using rubber gloves and wearing goggles or glasses when you are cutting the glass. Also you can give the bottom edges of the demijonn a good twist on sandy soil to make them less sharp.

If you don't have any demijohns its worth keeping your eyes open at the local glass recycling point.

== Hosepipe joints to make bamboo arches ==

<div style="float:left;width:150px;">
[[Image:Hosejoints.JPG|none|thumb|150px|Hosepipe Arches]]
</div>

You can use short bits of hose pipe as 'universal joints' between bamboo canes. A bit of pipe with two 6 foot canes poked in the ends will help to make and easy build 'A' frame or an archway over the path between two raised beds, (very handy way to use redundant space and sunlight for growing [[Runner beans]] or Climbing [[French beans]] over). Three short bits of bamboo joined by two bits of hose pipe can be used as a low frame to cover any beds which low growing soft fruit is planted in.

-

==Origami Plant Pots==

There are quite a few different ways of making flowerpots out of newspaper, smaller ones can be made using a 'former' and larger square pots can be made using the following method -
http://www.geocities.com/newspaperpots/

==Plant Pots from Plastic Milk Containers ==

<div style="float:left;width:200px;">
[[Image:Milkpot1.jpg|none|thumb|200px|Your starting material]]
</div>

By following the diagrams below you can use 4 pint containers to create your own pots. These will have the benefit of having their own drip trays which means they can be stored indoors without mess.

By using the top half of the container the handle hole can serve as a capillary for water and feed, a few holes can also be drilled in the screw cap for drainage.

{|
|+'''Plant Pots'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot2.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 1]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot3.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 2]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot4.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 3]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Milkpot5.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Stage 4]]
|-
|
|-

|}

==Levelling strip==

<div style="float:middle;width:500px;">
[[Image:Levellingstrip.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]
</div>

==Planting grids==

<div style="float:left;width:500px;">
[[Image:Planting grids (600 x 449).jpg|none|thumb|500px|Trellis used as planting grids]]
</div>

==Cloches==

[[Image:CL1.jpg|left|thumb|300px|]]

*Firstly what you will need:
*Row of fleece
*Garden string, preferably polypropylene
*3mm or 4mm galvanised wire, not too thick or you will have a problem bending it.
*Pliers and wire cutters
*Scissors or a knife.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL2.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

First step is to cut the wire into lengths about 14 to 16 inches longer than the width of the fleece.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL3.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Bend the wire into a hoop and at each end make a full twist, leaving a leg of about 4 to 6 inches below the loop. The leg is driven into the soil so if you are in a very exposed area you might want to cut the wire longer.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL4.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut a piece of string long enough to tie from one twist, stretching to the other twist, leaving enough spare to allow you can tie it.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL5.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Place each hoop over the crop row, driving the legs into the ground. Place a hoop about each 3 foot along the row.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL6.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Cut the fleece to length, allow about 20 inches over the length of the row. Bunch the ends and tie. Stake one end of the fleece at the end of the row and stretch the over the hoops to the other end of the row. Stake this end as well.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL7.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

Finally take the string and bring it over the top of the fleece and tie to the other twist in the wire so the string holds the fleece to the hoop. This stops the fleece billowing around too much in the wind. I also place clods of earth along the bottom sides of the fleece to keep it tight to the ground.{{clr}}

[[Image:CL8.jpg|none|thumb|300px|]]

If you need access to the crop it is the work of seconds to lift one side of the fleece. No need to untie anything or remove the hoops. I leave the cloche in place until harvest.
The wire hoops last years and I tend to get 2 years out of my fleece. Still far cheaper than bought cloches and it certainly keeps carrot fly at bay and gives good crops! You could also use environ mesh as this will allow more rain through which may be a factor early on during germination.{{clr}}

==Cold Frame==

[[Image:coldframe4kj.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

==Parsnip Planter==

[[Image:Parsnip planter.jpg|none|thumb|500px|]]

File:Parsnip planter.jpg

2006-03-28T09:43:57Z

Mikeb:

Parsnip

2006-03-28T09:39:52Z

Mikeb:

Pests, Diseases & Disorders

2006-03-24T07:34:08Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

*[[Asprin Spray]]
*[[Tomato plant problems]]
*[[Potato Seed Diseases]]
*[[Plant health care - An overview]]
*[[Diagnosis, treatment, prevention and control]]
*[[Cabbage White Butterfly]]
*[[Flea Beetle]]
*[[Slug Control]]- using coffee and other methods
*[[White Fly]]
*[[Aphides]]
*[[Carrot fly]]
*[[Vine weevil]]
*[[Peach-potato aphid]]
*[[Red spider mite]]
*[[Peach leaf curl]]
*[[Fireblight]]
*[[Blackcurrent reversion virus]]

Pests, Diseases & Disorders

2006-03-24T07:33:45Z

Mikeb:

Peach leaf curl

2006-03-23T08:31:08Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Fungus
*Order: Taphrinales
*Scientific name: Taphrina deformans
*English name: Peach leaf curl

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:27:12Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

{|
|+'''Blackcurrant reversion virus'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc1.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms of the vector- the big bud effect of Cecidophyopsis ]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc2.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms of the vector- the presence of mite Cecidophyopsis ribis inside the enlarged bud.ruit]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc3.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms - the change in leaf shape of an infected plant]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:26:11Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

{|
|+'''Fireblight'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms of the vector- the big bud effect of Cecidophyopsis ]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms of the vector- the presence of mite Cecidophyopsis ribis inside the enlarged bud.ruit]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the change in leaf shape of an infected plant]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:24:51Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

{|
|+'''Fireblight'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the shepherd’s crook shape of infected shoots]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the ‘burnt’ appearance of stem and fruit]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the ‘burnt’ appearance of stem and fruit]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

File:Bc3.jpg

2006-03-23T08:23:46Z

Mikeb:

File:Bc2.jpg

2006-03-23T08:23:29Z

Mikeb:

File:Bc1.jpg

2006-03-23T08:23:17Z

Mikeb:

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:23:04Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

{|
|+'''Fireblight'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the shepherd’s crook shape of infected shoots]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the ‘burnt’ appearance of stem and fruit]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:20:12Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:16:53Z

Mikeb:

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:16:17Z

Mikeb:

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

Pests, Diseases & Disorders

2006-03-23T08:15:54Z

Mikeb:

Red spider mite

2006-03-23T08:14:37Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Mite
*Order: Arachnida
*Scientific name: Tetranychus urticae
*English name: Glasshouse red spider mite

{|
|+'''Red Spider Mite'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 0.5mm long, egg – 0.1mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms – leaf speckled.]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Signs - Web & mites]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' The mites are visible on the leaves, initially on the underside. They congregate on the growing shoots, and webs can be seen.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Myriad tiny whitish speckles are visible on the leaves as a result of the sap sucking action from the underside, where there may be yellowish orange discolouration. After prolonged attack, the leaves appear bleached. Close examination shows the remaining transparent upper epidermis of the leaf. The leaves may drop.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The lifecycle is incomplete, with many generations in a year. Mites over-winter as dormant adults in crevices in bark outside and in glasshouses. Activity starts in late spring as temperatures increase and females crawl to infest plants, feeding on cellular sap with their tiny piercing and sucking mouthparts, injecting poison into the leaf mesophyll cells, and laying eggs. Larvae with three pairs of legs emerge, feed, and develop into nymphs with four pairs of legs. Within two weeks they develop into adults, mate, and females lay eggs. The eggs can hatch within a week at temperatures over 25oC and the lifecycle continues so numbers increase considerably within a short time. They prefer low humidity. The mites crawl amongst plants, and can be transferred from area to area by wind, on animals and clothing. Their colour changes from yellowish to reddish in autumn as days shorten, and females that have already been fertilised, move away to hibernate in crevices.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Purchase clean plants from reputable growers. Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Use overhead sprays for irrigation to increase humidity. When checking plants for infestation, check known infested areas last to prevent the spread via clothing. Fumigate glasshouses in winter to kill dormant mites. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Introduce a predatory mite such as Phytoseiulus persimilis. They are most active when temperatures exceed 20oC, so are really only effective from May onwards, but in order for them to reproduce more quickly than the pest, they need temperatures of 28oC. They, unlike the pest, prefer high humidity, so this method of cultural control can be used alongside the biological control. The benefit of using these methods is that they are harmless to humans, so crops can be eaten safely.

'''Chemical:''' For outdoor and indoor crops spray a product containing fenbutatin oxide which will act as a contact acaricide, or a product such as Savona, which is a soft soap type containing fatty acids.

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves are damaged; the mesophyll layer of cells is killed so they cannot photosynthesise. The plant will not thrive, and flowers and fruits will be stunted. Heavy infestations will kill the plant.

Peach-potato aphid

2006-03-23T08:14:10Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Insect
*Order: Hemiptera
*Scientific name: Myzus persicae
*English name: Peach-potato aphid

{|
|+'''Peach-potato aphid'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 1.5-2.5mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Nymph – 1-2mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Signs of aphid and symptoms of crinkled leaf]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa4.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Secondary symptoms of sooty mould growing on shiny honeydew]]
|-
|-
|}

'''signs of infestation:'''

Vine weevil

2006-03-23T08:13:52Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Insect
*Order: Coleoptera
*Scientific name: Otiorhynchus armadillo
*English name: Vine weevil

{|
|+'''Vine weevil'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 6-10mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Larva – 10-15mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms – leaf notches]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' The adult weevil is difficult to spot, as it tends to hide away under debris during the day and feed at night. Larvae can be found within the soil around the root-ball of a wide range of plant species, and particularly in container grown plants.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Notches chewed in leaves by adults, particularly seen initially around the edges of the leaves, making them look unsightly. The plant may suddenly wilt as a result of damage caused by larvae feeding on roots.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The lifecycle is complete, with one generation in a year. Vine weevils are all female and reproduce by parthenogenesis. Adults emerge from the soil in early spring and commence feeding on leaves with their biting and chewing mouthparts, then lay eggs on the soil during spring and summer. The eggs hatch after around two to three weeks. The larvae emerge, and feed in the soil on plant roots with their biting mouthparts for around three to four months during summer and into autumn. In late autumn the larvae enter deeper into the soil. They pupate in winter in the soil. However, it is possible for the adult vine weevil and the larval stage to remain active during winter, especially in the sheltered conditions provided by container grown plants in nurseries. Although the adult is wingless, it is mobile during its reproductive stage and can crawl from place to place and over a potential two to three year life span is capable of laying many eggs.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Purchase container grown plants from a reputable source, and avoid any that show signs and symptoms of infestation. Remove any debris in which the adults can hide during the day. Traps formed from folded cloth or paper placed near plants can be inspected regularly for signs of the presence of adult vine weevils.
Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Encourage natural predators such as ground beetles, birds, frogs and toads by providing habitats.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Apply a parasitic nematode such as Heterorhabditis megidis. This is purchased as a powder and then mixed with water and the soil is drenched with the suspension. The nematodes will enter the body of the larva and release a toxic bacterium that will kill the larva. The benefit of using this method is that the nematode is harmless to humans, so crops can be eaten safely. The effectiveness of the nematode is dependent upon the soil being moist, so the nematodes can move through it, and the soil temperature being consistently above 12oC, so the nematodes are active. There is no biological control for the adult weevil.

'''Chemical:''' Apply a contact insecticide as a soil drench containing imidacloprid or thiacloprid for larvae. Adults tend to be difficult to target effectively.

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves are damaged although this is more unsightly than causing a serious problem. Roots are damaged, and the plant’s ability take up water and nutrients is impaired. The plant will not thrive. In the case of prolonged attack causing severe damage to roots, the death of the plant will ensue.

Carrot fly

2006-03-23T08:13:30Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

The maggot which this fly breeds attacks the roots of young [[carrot]]s during the summer and ruins them completely. Keep the soil alongside the plants firm by trampling; use soot freely on the young plants. Moisten sawdust with paraffin oil and scatter it around the young plants. Carrot fly is a low flying creature and an alternative approach is to net the area around the carrot bed with a finely woven mesh to a height of 90cm.

Aphides

2006-03-23T08:13:10Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

Green, brown or black flies, of small size but always in great numbers, infest various crops. Spray with soapy water or with paraffin emulsion, made as follows: Dissolve a handful of soft soap in boiling water. Add a wineglassful of paraffin and two gallons of water. Stir well, spray as required.

Take about 8ozs of Elderberry leaves put into old saucepan with a pint and a half of water bring to the boil and then leave to simmer for 30 minutes. When cool add a teaspoon of washing up liquid, Put liquid into sprayer and apply. First class for killing green/Blackfly and carrot fly

White Fly

2006-03-23T08:12:47Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

=== White Fly ===
Trialeurodes vaporariorum - when young, they appear as small, scaly creatures on the underside of leaves. These scales protect them from all insecticides. The more adult whitefly look like tiny white moths, and they will make short circular flights when disturbed. They are transparent to opaque and vary in colour from creamy white through to brown.

=== How to Treat White Fly ===
Spray with 'permethrin' - this is a naturally occurring insecticide which is harmless to human beings and the beneficial wildlife in the garden. It is available at almost all garden centres and DIY stores.

It is also possible to reduce the numbers by spraying with very diluted washing up liquid but permethrin is far more effective.

Spray as soon as the flies are noticed - three sprays over ten days should see them off. This will kill the young white fly after they emerge from their scales.

An alternative - mainly for the greenhouse - is [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_pest_control biological pest control]] using the predator wasp [[http://internt.nhm.ac.uk/jdsml/research-curation/projects/chalcidoids/image.dsml?IMAGENO=chalc236&VALGENUS=Encarsia&VALSPECIES=formosa Encarsia formosa,]] available at many garden centres nowadays.

=== External links ===

*[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page Wikipedia]

White Fly

2006-03-23T08:12:37Z

Mikeb:

Common pests and how to deal with them

2006-03-23T08:12:18Z

Mikeb:

Slug Control

2006-03-23T08:11:53Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Mollusc
*Order: Stylommatophora
*Scientific name: Deroceras reticulatum
*English name: Field slug

==Field Slug==

{|
|+'''Field slug'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:slug1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 20-40mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:slug2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Egg – 2mm diameter]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' The slugs are easily visible on soil and plants especially in the evening and early morning, and leave trails of shiny mucus.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Large ragged holes in soft leaves, with smaller stems cut through and pitted areas in soft fruits such as strawberries as a result of their rasping mouthparts. Plants may be completely eaten away.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The slug over-winters under debris and in the soil in the egg and adult stage, and within the crowns of plants as an adult. At 5oC the adult will slowly become active, and eggs will take three months to hatch, although they will hatch within three weeks at 20oC, and adult activity is most apparent in spring and autumn, during moist, warm, conditions. They produce mucus to assist their movement on the soil and on plants. Slugs are hermaphrodite, they need to mate, but all can lay 20-50 eggs. These can be found in the soil, at the edges of paths and under debris. There are around three generations a year, and adults may live for 2-3 years. They feed mostly at night, or in shady, damp conditions days, on all parts of plants at or just above soil level, prefer softer tissue, and move from plant to plant destroying crops. They prefer alkaline soils, above pH 7.0. As temperatures fall, they crawl to hibernate under debris and the surface of the soil.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Hand pick and destroy active slugs morning and evening. Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Copper strips, sharp sand, ashes and grit can be placed around choice plants as a deterrent. Encourage natural predators like frogs, toads, hedgehogs and birds by providing ponds and dense cover for habitats. Cultivation of the soil in very cold, dry weather exposes slugs and eggs, which may die or be eaten. Plants with woody stems tend not to suffer from slug attack, and Allium sp. tend to be unaffected. Traps filled with beer can be used, the slug is attracted to the beer, but cannot escape. Debris where slugs can hide should be removed.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Introduce a parasitic nematode such as Phasmorhabditis hermaphrodita. This is purchased as eggs that are mixed with water and applied to the soil. They need a minimum temperature of 5oC but are more active at around 20oC. They need moist soil conditions to move around in the soil, and enter the slug’s body releasing a bacterium. This causes the slug to stop feeding and eventually it dies. The benefit of using this method is that it is harmless to humans and other creatures, so crops can be eaten safely, and predators can eat the slugs. The nematodes will need to be applied repeatedly every six weeks for best effect.

'''Chemical:''' Apply slug pellets containing metaldehyde, or a soil drench containing aluminium sulphate.

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves, stems and fruits are damaged or destroyed. If only small sections of leaf are damaged, the plant may recover, although growth may be stunted. Heavy infestations will kill the plant.

==Slug Control==

===Using Coffee===

Scientists have stumbled on a secret weapon against snails and slugs.
They have discovered the garden pests are poisoned by caffeine.

A strong cup of coffee is enough to send the creatures into a writhing frenzy, followed soon by death.

Scientists think caffeine acts as a potent neurotoxin against the pests.

The finding may be of use to gardeners and commercial growers. Slugs and snails are notoriously difficult to deter from attacking plants.

The chemicals currently used to control them are not permitted as residues on food crops.

Caffeine - regarded as safer and more environmentally acceptable - could be very useful in pest control.

Special brew

The discovery was made by scientists at the US Department of Agriculture's Agricultural Research Service in Hawaii.

They were testing a caffeine spray against frog pests when they noticed slugs were dying.

Follow-up studies showed that a 1-2% caffeine spray was enough to kill snails and slugs.

Even at concentrations about 100 times weaker, the slugs lost their appetite.

A cup of instant coffee contains about 0.05% caffeine, while brewed coffee contains more.

Lead researcher Dr Robert Hollingsworth says because caffeine is a natural product and is classified by the US Food and Drug Administration as safe, "it has potential as an environmentally acceptable alternative toxicant for the control of slugs and snails on food crops."

Natural high

There is a catch. Caffeine at 2% concentrations can damage the foliage of plants or cause yellowing.

It may be possible to overcome this by mixing caffeine with a polymer, say the researchers, who report their findings in the journal Nature.

But not everybody is convinced that caffeine is environmentally friendly.

Dr David Bohan, of the UK agricultural research institute IACR-Rothamsted, told BBC News Online: "1-2% is a very high concentration of caffeine.

"That might be potentially damaging to plants and invertebrates other than slugs such as insects."

=== Physical Barrier Methods ===

==== Copper ====

Available as copper backed adhesive tape to stick around plant pots.

==== Egg Shells ====

Most effective if dried in the oven and crushed up prior to use.

===Going on a bug hunt===

If dissuasion isn’t working you may want to consider going on a ‘bug hunt’ to reduce slug numbers on your allotment.
You will need to employ different methods depending on whether you intend going on a day time or a night time hunt.
During the daytime, slugs hide away in cool, damp dark environments. So if you want to catch them you will need to reduce the numbers of inaccessible hiding places such as cracks in the soil and half filled bags of compost left out in the open. At the same time you will need to increase the number of slug hideaways which you can easily check during your daytime slug searches.

Dispensing slugs is not a pleasant experience, some people carry a small pair of garden scissors to simply cut them in half, others drop them into a small pot of salted water or paraffin. Alternatively you can skewer them on a needle or hatpin and put them into a dark plastic bag. Once dispensed into a dark plastic bag slugs will not be inclined to crawl up into the light. When you have collected all the slugs you can find, you can tie a knot in the bag and simply put it in the dustbin. You can increase the number of slugs you find by baiting favourite hiding places with favourite slug foods, like lettuce or cabbage leaves.

Night time hunts are most productive about an hour after dark. A head torch, popular with campers and climbers, is a particularly useful piece of equipment for night time hunts, since this ensures you have two hands free for wielding scissors or picking up slugs to drop into paraffin / strong salt solution.

===Slug traps===

Slugs love yeast,bran and milk.

Flea Beetle

2006-03-23T08:11:34Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

=== Lifecycle ===

=== Environmental controls ===
i.e. damp soil

=== Physical Removal ===
yellow sticky card?

Some people swear by coating a piece of card with thick grease, and passing it over the plants whilst gently brushing them. The flea beetle jump and get stuck in the grease.JM

=== Chemical Methods ===

Flea Beetle

2006-03-23T08:11:20Z

Mikeb:

Cabbage White Butterfly

2006-03-23T08:10:58Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Insect
*Order: Lepidoptera
*Scientific name: Pieris brassica
*English name: Large white cabbage butterfly

{|
|+'''Cabbage White Butterfly'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Wba1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 20-25mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Wba2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Larva – 5-10mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Wba3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Eggs – 1mm long]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' Small eggs that have been laid on the underside of leaves of brassicas, such as cabbages and broccoli will be visible when the leaf is turned over.
Larvae will be visible on the leaves,

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Holes chewed in leaves by larvae, particularly seen initially between veins on the leaves, causing significant visible damage.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The lifecycle is complete, with usually two generations in a year. Pupae over-winter in fissures in bark, on fences, and debris. Adults emerge in April/May. The adults do not attack plants and have no chewing mouthparts. Males and females mate, and the females lay eggs on the underside of brassica leaves, and then die. The eggs hatch after around two weeks, and the larvae emerge. They feed on the brassica leaves from the underside, eventually making holes in the leaves with their chewing mouthparts, and live for around four weeks, then crawl away from the plant to find a place to pupate. The second generation of adults emerge after around four weeks in July/August, and the cycle continues, with the final batch of pupae remaining at the pupa stage for around six months over the winter period. The insect can spread over a wide area, as it is mobile during its reproductive stage - having wings it can fly from one area to another. The female will lay many eggs, and although not all will survive through to the adult stage, those that do, because of their mobility, will mate and reproduce over a wide area.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off larvae by hand and destroying them. Erect a crop cover of fine mesh, such as ‘Enviromesh’ when planting, to prevent the adult reaching the crop and laying eggs. Encourage natural predators such as birds, by developing natural wildlife areas near to the crop area that will provide food and nesting sites.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Apply an insecticidal bacterium such as Bacillus thuringiensis. This is purchased as a powder and then mixed with water and the suspension sprayed onto the crop. When the larva eats the leaf, the bacterium enters the gut and the larva stops feeding and dies within one to two days. The benefit of using this method is that the bacterium is only toxic to certain creatures with a specific type of gut. It is harmless to humans, so crops can be eaten safely. The effectiveness is dependent upon the larva ingesting sufficient bacterium, and so the spray coverage must be adequate and the larva must be actively feeding, but if, for example, the larva is feeding inside the head of cabbage, the bacterium may not be present on the inner leaves.

'''Chemical:''' Apply a stomach poison or contact insecticide containing pyrethrin (pyrethrum)

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves are seriously damaged and in some cases totally destroyed, so the plant cannot photosynthesise. Growth will be seriously stunted, and the plant may die.

Tomato plant problems

2006-03-23T08:09:31Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

What's Wrong With My Tomatoes?

Q: What causes a big black spot on the blossom-end of my fruit?

A: The problem is called Blossom-End Rot (BER) and is caused by a lack of calcium within the fruit. When calcium reaches low levels in the tomato, the fruit simply dies back at the bottom leaving the characteristic black or brown spot. Calcium is present in most soils in adequate amounts. The problem is that the plant cannot absorb enough calcium through its roots because of dry soil conditions. That's because calcium is taken up by the roots along with water. If, for some reason, water uptake is restricted, calcium uptake will stop.

What can you do about it? Have your soil tested to make sure you have enough calcium in the soil. If you don't, add either limestone (if the soil's acidity level or pH is below 6.0) or gypsum. If calcium levels are adequate, the most important control measure is to maintain optimum soil moisture. Whenever tomato plants are allowed to experience the slightest bit of water stress, you are causing BER. To maintain good soil moisture, try using a mulch of straw, leaves, or even grass clippings to prevent evaporation.

Tomatoes need about one inch of water per week as a minimum. If you do not get this through rainfall, you will need to apply the water As a rough estimate, each tomato plant needs approximately 3-5 gallons of water each week. If you use a mulch, this amount may be cut in half. When watering, don't lightly sprinkle the ground. Apply the water so it enters the ground and moves through the soil to a depth of 8-12 inches. Shallow watering only encourages shallow rooting which leaves tomato plants more prone to wilting.

Q: My tomato plants look great in the morning and then they wilt in the afternoon. I have a lot of green fruit that need to ripen...will these plants live to produce ripe fruit?

A: There are two pathogenic fungi that can cause wilts in plants: Fusarium and Verticillium. When you purchase seed or tomato plants, look at the variety name and the letters that follow. Most varieties are VFN resistant, which means they are resistant to Verticillium, Fusarium, and nematodes. Use varieties that are VFN resistant.

The other possible cause for late afternoon wilting is known as walnut wilt. The roots of walnut trees secrete a chemical that is very toxic to tomato plants and will cause them to wilt when they are stressed in the heat of the day. Planting tomatoes in locations where there are no walnut trees is the only answer.

Q: In May and June, dark brown to black leaf spots developed on the leaves of my tomato plants. Some were as large as an inch in diameter. What caused these spots?

A: Leaf spots can be caused by fungi that are parasites on your tomato plants. The two most common diseases are early blight and Septoria leaf spot. Spots caused by early blight can get as large as an inch in diameter and will have a bullseye appearance. Septoria leaf spots are dark at first and then become more gray in the center as they age. Both of these diseases will cause the leaves of the plant to fall off prematurely. These fungi are mostly a problem during prolonged periods of wet weather.

Q: My tomato fruit looked beautiful but after I harvested them, several developed sunken circular areas that eventually rotted. What caused this to happen?

A: Sunken circular areas on tomato fruit are typical symptoms of a disease known as anthracnose, which is caused by a fungus. Although this fungus may attack both green and red fruit, symptoms do not develop until the fruit ripen. A perfectly good looking tomato will often develop these sunken areas during storage. This disease is typically a problem on tomato fruit that are sitting on the ground and when there have been prolonged periods of wet weather.

Q: How do I control diseases in the future on my tomatoes?

A: 1) The first control measure is to purchase or produce disease-free transplants. Don't purchase tomato plants that have spots on them or that are yellowing or wilting.

2) Consider the location in your garden: it is best not to plant tomatoes in the same area in consecutive years.

3) Research has shown that placing straw, plastic, or paper mulches around the base of the tomato plants will help reduce development of disease. Mulching will provide a physical barrier between your tomato fruit and any disease organisms that may be lurking in the ground.

4) If disease is present on your tomato plants, spread of the disease can be reduced by using fungicides that are available from home garden stores.

Q: Every year, I seem to have lots of green tomatoes on my plants when the first frost comes. What can I do with these unripe fruit?

A: Often, the first killing frost of the season may be followed by weeks of mild weather. First, try protecting the plants from frost. When a frost is forecast, cover the plants. Try using an old sheet, a plastic tarp, or even a floating row cover material like reemay. Place it over the plants in the late afternoon and take it off the next morning after temperatures have risen above freezing.

This will also be a good time to root prune the plants. Root pruning means taking a spade and pressing it into the soil about 6-8 inches. Do this in a circle, one foot from the base of the plant. By doing this you will sever parts of the root which will usually hasten ripening.

When frosts are becoming more regular, it's time to cut the plants at the base and take them to a cool location, like a basement or garage. Hang the plants from the rafters and you will see the fruit slowly ripen. The fruit will not be as tasty as those in the summer, but they will be better than what you will find in the supermarket.

Instead of removing the whole plant, harvest all tomatoes of good size and place them in paper bags in a cool location. Tomatoes do not need light to ripen and should never be placed on a windowsill! Place the tomatoes in a single layer in the bags. Tomatoes stacked on top of each other are more likely to be damaged. When placing the fruit in the bags, try to separate them based on ripeness (i.e., put all fruit of a similar ripeness in the same bag). Check the bags regularly and remove fruit as it ripens.

Fireblight

2006-03-23T08:08:37Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Bacterium
*Order: Enterobacteriales
*Scientific name: Erwinia amylovora
*English name: Fireblight

{|
|+'''Fireblight'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the shepherd’s crook shape of infected shoots]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the ‘burnt’ appearance of stem and fruit]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Severe wilting of leaves, shoots and flowers. Ends of shoots show a ‘shepherd’s crook shape, and a bacterial ooze can be seen issuing from the lenticels. Dark brown, burnt- like patches appear on branches, with wilting leaves. Patches spread to the trunk, other branches become infected and the tree can die within 2-3 months. Sunken cankers appear, and if the bark is removed a reddish-brown stain is seen.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is a parasitic bacterium, which is carried by wind-borne moisture in the air, and visiting insects. It can over-winter in living tissue on certain members of the Rosaceae family, such as Malus spp. Pyrus spp. Crataegus spp. Pyracantha spp. and Sorbus spp. As temperatures rise in spring, and the leaf and flowers buds start to open, warm moist conditions enable the bacteria to multiply and infect blossom and the shoot tips. Alternatively, the bacteria can newly arrive during these springtime conditions. It is able to enter the plant through stomata, lenticels and wounds, and is thought to colonise the stigma of flowers and enter through the nectaries. Once it has infected the plant, it multiplies rapidly. Bacteria reproduce asexually, through binary fission, where a cell wall grows through the centre, then each bacterium cell splits into two, and in favourable conditions, this continues until the host food source is exhausted, and the bacteria die unless another food source becomes available.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural: Purchase only certified virus-free plants.''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Prune away any suspected recently infected wood 60cm below the site of infection may stop the spread of the disease. Strict hygiene is essential when pruning, tools must be sterilised after each tree has been pruned, to avoid spreading the disease from tree to tree. Avoid planting susceptible trees in known infected areas, and site apple & pear orchards away from hedgerows containing potential native hosts such as Crataegus spp. and Sorbus spp. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease. Control insect vectors of the disease where possible, which will mean using specific biological or chemical means that do not affect pollinators and beneficial insects.

'''Biological and Chemical:''' None

'''Legislative:''' Listed as a quarantine disease in the EC Plant Health Directive and the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993, and must be reported to DEFRA if found on registered growers premises. The Plant Health and Seeds Inspector has the power to visit and remove infected plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease usually kills the plant.

File:Fire2.jpg

2006-03-23T08:05:43Z

Mikeb:

File:Fire.jpg

2006-03-23T08:05:31Z

Mikeb:

Fireblight

2006-03-23T08:01:20Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Bacterium
*Order: Enterobacteriales
*Scientific name: Erwinia amylovora
*English name: Fireblight

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Severe wilting of leaves, shoots and flowers. Ends of shoots show a ‘shepherd’s crook shape, and a bacterial ooze can be seen issuing from the lenticels. Dark brown, burnt- like patches appear on branches, with wilting leaves. Patches spread to the trunk, other branches become infected and the tree can die within 2-3 months. Sunken cankers appear, and if the bark is removed a reddish-brown stain is seen.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is a parasitic bacterium, which is carried by wind-borne moisture in the air, and visiting insects. It can over-winter in living tissue on certain members of the Rosaceae family, such as Malus spp. Pyrus spp. Crataegus spp. Pyracantha spp. and Sorbus spp. As temperatures rise in spring, and the leaf and flowers buds start to open, warm moist conditions enable the bacteria to multiply and infect blossom and the shoot tips. Alternatively, the bacteria can newly arrive during these springtime conditions. It is able to enter the plant through stomata, lenticels and wounds, and is thought to colonise the stigma of flowers and enter through the nectaries. Once it has infected the plant, it multiplies rapidly. Bacteria reproduce asexually, through binary fission, where a cell wall grows through the centre, then each bacterium cell splits into two, and in favourable conditions, this continues until the host food source is exhausted, and the bacteria die unless another food source becomes available.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural: Purchase only certified virus-free plants.''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Prune away any suspected recently infected wood 60cm below the site of infection may stop the spread of the disease. Strict hygiene is essential when pruning, tools must be sterilised after each tree has been pruned, to avoid spreading the disease from tree to tree. Avoid planting susceptible trees in known infected areas, and site apple & pear orchards away from hedgerows containing potential native hosts such as Crataegus spp. and Sorbus spp. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease. Control insect vectors of the disease where possible, which will mean using specific biological or chemical means that do not affect pollinators and beneficial insects.

'''Biological and Chemical:''' None

'''Legislative:''' Listed as a quarantine disease in the EC Plant Health Directive and the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993, and must be reported to DEFRA if found on registered growers premises. The Plant Health and Seeds Inspector has the power to visit and remove infected plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease usually kills the plant.

Fireblight

2006-03-23T07:58:19Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Bacterium
*Order: Enterobacteriales
*Scientific name: Erwinia amylovora
*English name: Fireblight

Fireblight

2006-03-23T07:57:48Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[

*Disease type: Bacterium
*Order: Enterobacteriales
*Scientific name: Erwinia amylovora
*English name: Fireblight

Pests, Diseases & Disorders

2006-03-23T07:56:24Z

Mikeb: