Allotments4All - New pages [en-gb]

For Newbies

2008-10-27T08:34:26Z

Glallotments:

[[Main Page]]

The simple objective of this page is to provide links to websites where newbies can find useful information to get them going.

==Links to some background information on allotments==
[http://www.farmgarden.org.uk/ari/documents/plotholdersguide.pdf The Allotment Regeneration Initiative's (ARI) plot holder guide] contains general background information on allotments (but nothing on actual cultivation).

If you are interested in allotment law the National Society of Allotment and Leisure Gardeners (NSALG) has [http://www.nsalg.org.uk/uploads/article547/Allotments%20-%20The%20Basics.pdf a useful 3 page summary of modern legislation.] For a fuller explanation see Paul Clayden's ''The Law of Allotments'' (5th edition) in paperback.

[http://www.allotmoreallotments.org.uk/ Allot More Allotments], a campaign for more allotments, has a [http://www.allotmoreallotments.org.uk/legislation.htm useful page with links to information on legislation].

If you are already on a waiting list but despair that you may not get a plot for a long time you may wish to look at other alternatives. [http://landshare.channel4.com/ Landshare] looks to put landowners and growers in touch with one another. This concept is a growing area at the moment. However, beware that some outfits will make charges for the service that they provide, possibly making the overall cost of getting your piece of land far more expensive than normal allotment rents. Some commercial organisations are now offering plots but they tend to be extremely expensive, some as much as 20-30 times greater than the equivalent rents on a council-run or independent site.

==Where to find initial advice on cultivation to get you going==

If you are new to allotmenting and to growing then you are probably on the look-out for some initial advice and guidance to get you going. While there are plenty of books that you can buy - frequently under the names of celebrity gardeners - it is possible to find much useful advice from experienced plot holders on the internet. These individuals often provide more solid, realistic and pragmatic information than the celebrities.

As a starter, apart from the information here on the A4A wiki, there are a reasonable number of contributors to Allotments4All who have their own web sites which contain much useful information for the newbie. Here is a selection:

* [http://downtheplot.com Eristic] – particularly good at clearance and first year cultivation plus the growing of some of the more unusual crops

* [http://www.bkthisandthat.org.uk BAK] – includes "new to allotment?" and cultivation approaches pages plus lots of links to other sites

* [http://www.growyourown.info/ Realfood] - comprehensive site on fruit and veg growing by a Scottish grower with an emphasis on cultivation in the north of the British Isles

* [http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk Tee Gee] - experienced Yorkshire grower who covers fruit, veg and ornamentals, some of which are displayed in slide show format. There is also a comprehensive FAQ section and photo album.

Meanwhile, the following contributors veer more towards a diary format with excellent pictures:

* [http://www.allotment-diary.co.uk/ vegmandan]

* [http://www.allaboutliverpool.com/allaboutallotments1_homepage.html allaboutliverpool].

There are, of course, non-A4A growers whose websites are worth reading. They include:

* [http://www.keirg.freeserve.co.uk/diary/indextec.htm Gavin Keir] - pages on allotment techniques are particularly useful

* [http://www.lraa.co.uk/allotment_gardening.htm London Road Allotment Association (Coventry)] - useful brief notes on cultivation, including a garden calendar

Finally, [http://www.bkthisandthat.org.uk/FirstYearExperiences.html click here] to find out how one newbie got on during her first year on the plot.

==Miscellany==

'''Contaminated Manure'''

Probably the major news item among the UK growing fraternity in 2008 was the appearance in various areas of manure that had been infected by a chemical called aminopyralid which was found in some herbicide products from a company called Dow Agrosciences. It subsequently led to distorted growth in crops that were planted in ground that contained the infected manure. After public pressure the offending products were eventually withdrawn from the market in July 2008. However, Dow Agrosciences were given permission to reintroduce two of the products in October 2009, subject to restrictions. Various websites narrate the story. [http://ossettweather.com/glallotments.co.uk/acmanure.html Green Lane Allotments] is a good one to read to understand the problems and the unfolding story. The bottom line is to understand the provenance of your manure - i.e. be sure that you know where it has come from and whether the farmer or stable owner used any of the offending products or obtained any haylage or silage contaminated with herbicide residue.

'''Poles and Rods'''

You will find topics on this forum where plot sizes are mentioned, sometimes - though not always - in connection with allotment rent. They are frequently expressed in terms of poles or rods. A pole is the same as a rod, referring to an area that is 5.5 yards long and 5.5 yards wide. Perch is another name for the same unit of measurement although it is less frequently used.

Therefore, 1 pole = 30.25 sq yards or 272.25 sq feet or 25.3 sq metres.

From the late 19th century a standard size allotment was considered to be 10 poles, i.e. 300 sq yards or 250 sq metres. However, many sites are now reducing plot sizes in an attempt to cope with the increased demand for allotments. This means that while on some sites the standard is still 10 poles, on others it may be only 5 poles.

'''Expectations'''

The very fact that you are reading this means that you are probably under no illusions that allotments can be hard work, albeit enjoyable and ultimately rewarding work. However, there are newbies around who have somewhat unrealistic expectations, as the following selected quotes from A4A members testify ...

“We did have somebody who after coming to the top of the list about this time of year (autumn) said that they only wanted a summer allotment … another said they don't remember putting their name down”.

“We've also had someone who took on a plot but didn't do anything although they appeared several times to look at it - eventually they asked 'when will my plot be dug and ready for me to plant' - and when it was explained they had to dig it, we got a reply along the lines of 'well I'm renting this off the Council, surely they will dig it for me to start with, they can't expect me to dig all that'”
“There was the tenant who replied to my request that she tidy up her overgrown plot by saying: ‘don't be ridiculous! We're surrounded by nature and what you call weeds are just wild flowers!!’ She had nettles, thistles, dock, brambles, cow parsley .... etc etc”.

“A woman took on half a plot in October one year and visited it a few times to begin with but did very little to it. The following spring I asked her when she intended to start digging and planting and she said that she had a week's holiday coming up in August and would start then.”

“One new plot-holder had a couple of men build some sturdy raised beds. She did a bit of work and then disappeared on us. By chance I met her next-door neighbour while we were dog-walking, so I asked if she was OK. The reply was that she was fine, and was loving the allotment: she'd got it all planted and at the end of the summer was going back to harvest it all!”

History of Allotments

2007-03-26T17:52:18Z

BAK:

[[Main Page]]

==A Brief History of Allotments in England & Wales==

In the early and high Middle Ages villagers shared pieces of land around the village to eke out an existence by growing crops and grazing livestock. However, rises in the population and improvements in agriculture put pressure on the “shared” approach, leading to moves to privatise this common land.

Land Enclosure, as it was called, occurred principally in the 18th and 19th centuries, benefiting a relatively small minority (landowners and farmers) while disenfranchising the majority. Fortunately, some members of the landed gentry, politicians and the clergy had social consciences, and they commenced in the 1760s what turned out to be a long struggle to provide allotments for the poor and unemployed by means of individual initiatives and lobbying for legislation.

Members of the nobility who were early providers of allotments in the late 18th century included Lords Carrington, Winchilsea and Egremont. Some providers set rules: Cranfield Church in Bedfordshire required regular attendance at church, the bringing up of the family in a decent and orderly manner, and specified forfeiture of the allotment for any criminal conviction.

The first attempts to legislate for the provision of allotments occurred in the 1790s, but they were easily rebuffed by the landowners’ lobby which was strongly against the idea.

Life became even harder for the poor in the early part of the 19th century for reasons which included: a surplus of labour with the return of soldiers after the Napoleonic Wars; automation in the form of the threshing machine; and somewhat perversely gradual improvements in health which meant more mouths to feed. These factors, coupled with bad harvests in 1829 and 1830, led to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swing_Riots Swing Riots] of 1830 and 1831. The rioters were harshly dealt with: 19 people were executed, and over 1,000 were either jailed or transported to Australia.

Lobbying subsequently became more fruitful, in part due to concerns about social unrest after the Swing Riots, and some initial pieces of legislation were enacted. Unfortunately, the effects of many of the acts which related to allotments (right through to the end of the 19th century) were diluted for the simple reason that they tended to rely on voluntary action.

By the middle of the 19th century a modest level of progress was beginning to be achieved, helped by a gradual decrease in the opposition from landowners and farmers. The increase in the number of allotments was far from uniform across the country, Wiltshire and Lincolnshire being particular hotbeds of activity. Potato fields were also popular around this time; this was a mechanism whereby land was let by a farmer for growing the crop which had become a staple part of the poor's diet by the start of the 19th century.

By 1873 there were around 243,000 plots according to one estimate. It was from this point onwards that an explosion in the growth of the allotments occurred, continuing right through to 1945. There were a number of reasons for this growth:

* The movement, which had been predominantly rural in nature up to this point, quickly became urban in the latter part of the 19th century, as increasing numbers of town-dwellers sought the means to reconnect with the soil and to supplement their wages. Town gardens (places for both decoration and cultivation) had in fact predated the allotment movement in places such as Birmingham and Nottingham but they were often for people of some means, e.g. shopkeepers and artesans, rather than the ordinary working man.

* changes in local government organisation, coupled with more effective allotment legislation in the period from 1880 through to 1908, led to the public provision of allotments. One estimate puts the number of allotments at around 600,000 just prior to the First World War

* and the food situation during the two World Wars led to purple patches with the number of allotments peaking at around 1.5m during both conflicts.

Unfortunately, the second half of the 20th century saw a rapid descent from these dizzying heights, as the general standard of living gradually increased. The financial requirement of individuals to grow crops diminished, leading to a pronounced waning in the levels of enthusiasm across the nation. By the end of the 20th century there were estimated to be in the region of 250,000 allotments in England. The last 35 years has seen a number of gentle surges in interest, the latest being the significant appeal among young women, particularly mothers, to grow tasty food, free of pesticides.

The enemies of the allotment movement have been, and remain, the insatiable needs of property developers and the apathy of many plot holders. There will undoubtedly be continuing pressures on allotments everywhere, requiring vigilance and goodwill in equal measures if a right that many people struggled hard to win over a period of around a century, and even harder to maintain over the last 100+ years, is to be protected.

==Further Reading (Books)==

There are a number of interesting books which cover the history of allotments in the UK.

* Poole, S., ''The Allotment Chronicles: A Social History of Allotment Gardening'', Silver Link Publishing, Kettering, 2006. This well-written book by an obvious allotment lover is the result of 20 years research. It is a historical account which is liberally laced with individual stories.

* Crouch, D., Ward, C., ''The Allotment: Its Landscape and Culture'', Five Leafs Publications, Nottingham, 1997. The two authors obtained their material by travelling all over the country, searching out people’s recollections from their youth and their more recent experiences. It is less historical, more social in content. It includes a chapter on the allotment movement in other countries.

* Burchardt, J., ''The Allotment Movement in England 1793-1873'', London: The Royal Historical Society, 2002. This is a professional historian’s view, and as such it provides a more dispassionate, though nonetheless sympathetic, view of the allotment movement during its formative years.

* Burchardt, J., Cooper, J., ''Breaking New Ground'', FACHRS Publications, Milton Keynes, 2010. This is the result of work by the Family and Community Historical Research Society. The project's aim was to discover more about allotments and their use across the country in the 19th century. Burchardt and Cooper acted as editors for the book with Burchardt producing a summary. The period covered is 1793-1873, matching the period covered by his work ''The Allotment Movement in England 1793-1873''. It is not what you would call "an easy read" but it is a rewarding read for those who are interested in the history of allotments.

* Moran, D.M, ''The Allotment Movement in Britain'', New York: P. Lang, 1990. This concentrates on allotments in the Swindon area, but it includes a very useful general historical introduction.

==Further Reading (Web-based Material)==

Some useful articles can be found on the Internet, including:

*[http://pia-journal.co.uk/article/view/pia.379/439 Allotment Gardens: A Reflection of History, Heritage, Community and Self] is a short paper by Lesley Acton who completed a PhD on allotments

* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allotment_gardening Wikipedia article] – this has a more international flavour, covering the allotment movement in Germany, Sweden and the Philippines, as well as the UK

* [http://www.bkthisandthat.org.uk/ShortHistoryOfAllotmentshtml.html a brief history of allotments in England] - is a stepping stone between this article and the books that are mentioned above.

* [http://www.bkthisandthat.org.uk/GrowingHistoryPreAllotments.html a brief history of UK cultivation prior to the Allotment Movement] - is a useful article if you are interested in understanding how cultivation techniques had progressed by the time that the allotment movement got started.

==Local Allotment Site Histories==

If there is an obvious gap in the history of allotments it is the relative lack of local histories which might help to give us a greater understanding of the movement as a whole.

[http://www.bkthisandthat.org.uk/OtherSiteHistories.html Links to Allotment Site Histories] is an attempt to catalogue those that do exist. It currently contains around 50 entries. The most recent additions are:

* [http://joelstreetallotments.weebly.com/history.html Joel Street Allotments] (in the London Borough of Hillingdon)

* and a website which is dedicated to the history of [http://readingallotments.wordpress.com Reading Allotments].

Further links will be added over time, whether they are to electronic histories that are available on the web or to paper articles.

==A Call for More Local Allotment Histories==

Why not consider writing a history of your own site? The majority of sites usually have one or two individuals who are interested in local history. It can make for a useful and interesting winter project when there is not much to do on the plot.

It does not necessarily have to be "War and Peace". One or two pages of A4 paper can often be more than enough to provide useful information on the formation of your site and its subsequent experiences.

Possible sources of material in the UK include:

* Council Records
* Council Minutes
* Church Records
* [http://www.a2a.org.uk/ Access to Archives] - an electronic archive of some local material.

Older Council or Church material may be held in your [http://www.oz.net/~markhow/englishros.htm Local County Record Office]. The location of diocesan records, which may also be helpful, varies. Check on the web where they may be found for your area.

Unread Posts

2007-01-17T10:43:38Z

Admin:

[[Image:Joomlalogin.jpg]]

Stop Site Notifications

2006-12-05T09:56:16Z

Admin:

To stop site notifications you can edit your profile, and uncheck the checkbox marked

Receive forum announcements and important notifications by email

As shown in the picture below.

[[Image:Notification.jpg]]

[[Main_Page]]

Recomended Online Shops

2006-11-13T01:00:30Z

Cambourne7:

[http://www.desirableplants.com/ Desirable Plants]

[http://www.junglegardens.co.uk/ Jungle Plants]

Books

2006-10-30T16:35:03Z

Bak:

A list of books on gardening and allotmenteering that people have found useful, and a brief description or reason why we like them!

*'''"The Great Vegetable Plot" ''' Sarah Raven.
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0563488174/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

"The Great Vegetable Plot" is Sarah Raven's new guide to growing vegetables for all keen cooks and any level of gardener. In it, she demonstrates how to plan and plant your plot, recommends the best vegetables to grow and eat and gives clear instructions on how to cultivate them using minimum input to get maximum reward. Divided into 3 sections, the book shows you what and what not to grow and the basic principles and techniques to help you achieve this. It is a landmark Gardeners' World branded book, bringing the principles of simplicity and speed to the vegetable plot as well as including delicious food pictures to illustrate why it's worth growing your own. Illustrated with over 250 photographs by the award-winning photographer Jonathan Buckley, the book is a stylish and practical guide to vegetable gardening, and a companion volume to Sarah's previous title, "Grow Your Own Cut Flowers".

*'''"The Vegetable Gardener's Bible"''' Edward C Smith
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0715317814/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

Outlines a gardening system that uses wide rows, organic methods, raised beds, and deeply dug soil to produce high yields with less work.

*'''"Beds"''' Pauline Pears
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0855326972/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

This gardening guide provides advice on planning layouts, selecting what to grow, crop rotation and weed control.

*'''"The Self-Sufficient Gardener"''' John Seymour

*'''"Grow your own Vegetables"''' Joy Larckom
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/071121963X/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])
This guide contains everything you need to know to create a highly-productive, beautiful vegetable plot. Joy Larkom's easy-to-follow advice covers every aspect of vegetable gardening, including preparing and looking after soil; manures, composts and fertilizers; growing techniques; pests, diseases and weeds; protection; and planning and making good use of space. The second half of the book provides cultivation information for over 100 vegetables, including site and soil requirements, cultivation, pests and diseases, and cultivars. Comprehensively revised, the book now includes unusual vegetables from the increasingly wide range available today, new varieties and modern techniques, and up-to-date research. It addresses the concerns of 21st-century gardeners and is totally organic in its approach.

*'''"The Complete Book of Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit"''' Biggs, McVicar & Flowerdew

*'''"The River Year Book"''' Fearnley-Whittinstall

*'''"Gardeners' World: Practical Gardening"''' Geoff Hamilton
Book Description (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0563551631/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

Written by Geoff Hamilton, presenter of Gardeners’ World for 17 years, the book marks the culmination of his long and distinguished gardening and writing career. Packed with Geoff’s practical advice, based on tried-and-tested Barnsdale methods, Gardeners’ World Practical Gardening Course makes the ideal gardening reference book, taking both new and more experienced gardeners through all the skills needed to create and maintain a glorious garden. Subjects covered include-
**Basic equipment and garden design
**Understanding plant needs and planting for year-round colour
**Soil fertility and lawns
**Containers
**Water gardening and alpine gardening
**Greenhouses, vegetables, fruit and herbs
**Hard landscaping
**Recognising and controlling pests and diseases

All the projects are illustrated with step-by-step colour photographs and are made simple with the help of clear, informative text. Gardeners’ World Practical Gardening Course has all the essential advice you will ever need to help you in the garden.

*'''"The square foot garden"''' Mel Bartholomew
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0878573410/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

A new edition of the classic gardening handbook details a simple yet highly effective gardening system, based on a grid of one-foot by one-foot squares, that produces big yields with less space and with less work than with conventional row gardens.

*'''"The new seed starters handbook"''' Nancy Bubel
Synopsis (taken from [http://astore.amazon.co.uk/allotments4al-21/detail/0878577521/202-8476211-7427849 Amazon])

Describes the advantages of starting seeds indoors, discusses containers, growing media, light, and water, and tells how to transplant young plants into the garden.

*'''"The Vegetable Expert"''' Dr DG Hessayon

*'''"Fruit and its Cultivation"''' TW Sanders

*'''"Self Sufficiency"''' John & Sally Seymour

*'''"Planning The Organic Vegetable Garden"''' Dick Kitto

Complicated cropping plans etc, but some good sense in there.

*'''"Organic Kitchen and Garden"''' Ysanne Spevack, Michael Lavelle and Christine Lavelle

*'''"The Ornamental Kitchen Garden"''' Geoff Hamilton

*'''"The ABC of Vegetable Gardening"''' W.E. Shewell-Cooper

*'''"The Half Hour Allotment"''' Lia Leendertz (RHS)

Has lots of suggestions on how to pick what's important to you and concentrate on that. The half hour concept is that a well managed allotment can be kept in production in a few hours work a week (after you've cleared and prepared it!). Has an excellent section on how much of each vegetable to grow, which varieties give best flavour or interest. May be focused on the absolute beginner but I've found it good to read.

*'''"The New Kitchen Garden"''' Adam Caplain
Synopsis (taken from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Kitchen-Garden-Gardening-Vegetables/dp/184172226X/sr=8-2/qid=1169215501/ref=sr_1_2/026-1186620-9371661?ie=UTF8&s=books Amazon])
This is an innovative work that brings together organic gardening and imaginative vegetarian cookery. The down-to-earth gardening advice from Adam Caplin has been combined with delicious recipes from Celia Brooks Brown, both experts in their fields.

And this from www.mojolondon.co.uk ([http://www.mojolondon.co.uk/homegarden/indoors/kitchen/new_kitchen_garden.htm Mojolondon])

No matter what you cook, every recipe is improved by the use of fresh organic fruits, vegetables, or herbs. With the New Kitchen Garden, your menu needn’t be dictated by the whims of your local grocery store. Award—winning gardener Adam Caplin shows how easy it is to create your own kitchen garden, even if all the space you have is a small patio or rooftop.
Acclaimed food writer Celia Brooks Brown then takes you from out in the yard to in by the stove with 35 special recipes to turn your fresh produce into a satisfying meal. Whether you’re a would—be cook who likes to garden, or a cook who’d like more control over your ingredients, New Kitchen Garden offers more than just food for thought.

*'''"The Allotment Chronicles: A Social History of Allotment Gardening"''' Steve Poole

This book is the result of 20 years of painstaking research. It goes back to the start of allotments around the 1760s, a movement which resulted from the effects of the Land Enclosure acts on the poor. It details the slow initial progress in the face of opposition from landowners and farmers, through to the explosion in popularity that occurred during the First and Second World Wars, and on up to the present day. It is an excellent read for those who are interested in the history of allotments.

Local Allotment Associations

2006-10-10T17:07:18Z

Admin:

==List of Allotment Associations==

Though it might be a good Idea if we listed all of our allotment associations :-)

===National===

* The National Allotment Society [http://www.nsalg.org.uk/ www.nsalg.org.uk/]

===List A - Z by area ===

*Cambridgeshire
** Cambourne Allotment Association [http://www.cambourneallotment.org www.cambourneallotment.org].
***User Cambourne7,

*Derbyshire
**Derby Littleover Lane Allotment Association
*** User Saddad

*Warrington
**Golborne Allotment Association
***user manicscousers

*West Sussex
**Tilgate Allotment Association in Crawley
***User Sarah2210

How can I use an old washing machine drum?

2006-07-07T16:36:25Z

Orfy:

Turn it into a fire basket.

Marrow

2006-04-03T16:02:11Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[List of vegetables to grow]]

[[Monthly planner]]

'''Sowing'''

* Seed depth: xxmm
* Germination soil temperature: xxC
* Days to germinate:
* Sow indoors:
* Sow outdoors:
* Plant outdoors:

'''Growing'''

* pH range:
* Growing soil temperature: xxC
* Spacing in beds:
* Watering:
* Light:
* Nutrient requirements: N=; P=, K=
* Rotation considerations:
* Good companions:
* Bad companions:
* Seed Longevity:

Marrows all belong to the Gourd section of the Cucumber family and are basically grown in the same way. The plants take a up a lot of room. If you do not have a lot of ground to spare, just grow one of the Courgette varieties and towards the end of the season, allow a couple of the fruits to mature to full size Marrows. 
They need a sunny, sheltered position, as they are not hardy. The soil should be well drained and extremely rich in humus with a pH of around 6.0. 
Sow the seed in late April or early May, in pots of compost. Sow 2 seeds on their sides 1/2" deep in a 3" pot. Keep in a propagator or warm windowsill at 60F until germinated and then remove the weaker seedling. Plant out in the final growing position when all danger of frost has passed. 
Alternatively sow pairs of seeds directly where they are to grow, removing the weaker seedling on germination, 2 weeks before the last frosts and protect with a cloche.
Plant out 2' apart. 
Keep the plants free of weeds and well watered. 
Towards the end of the season the Marrows can be cut and left in the sun to ripen and then put into storage for winter use.

Water

2006-03-24T18:41:19Z

John h:

[[Main Page]]

==Contents==
This page will hold ideas and photos showing ways to collect and save water on allotments.

==Useful links ==

http://www.defra.gov.uk/environment/water/resources/drought/info2005.pdf

Blackcurrent reversion virus

2006-03-23T08:16:17Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Virus
*Family: Comoviridae
*Scientific name: Blackcurrant reversion association virus (subgroup C)
*English name: Blackcurrant reversion virus

{|
|+'''Blackcurrant reversion virus'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc1.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms of the vector- the big bud effect of Cecidophyopsis ]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc2.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms of the vector- the presence of mite Cecidophyopsis ribis inside the enlarged bud.ruit]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:bc3.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Symptoms - the change in leaf shape of an infected plant]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Crops of fruit are severely reduced. The leaves show a change in shape, and some may be yellowish in colour. The plant may produce more ‘leggy’ shoots. A decrease in hairiness of the flower sometimes occurs. The plant appears less vigorous.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is an obligate parasite virus that attacks blackcurrant, Ribes nigrum and causes reversion disease. It is spread by a mite vector, the blackcurrant gall mite, or big bud mite, Cecidophyopsis ribis. The virus is a microscopic particle that invades the host plant, where its RNA (Ribonucleic acid) changes the activity of the plants cells, disrupting the plant’s normal processes. The virus will continue to live in its host until the natural death of the host occurs, at which point the virus will die unless it has already been spread to another blackcurrant host by a vector.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off and destroy any enlarged buds as soon as they are apparent. Destroy infected plants. Avoid planting bushes where there is a known infected area. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease, such as Ribes nigra ‘Ben Hope’ and ‘Ben Gairn’. Always purchase fresh, certified virus-free plants. Virus-free plants are propagated by micro-propagation methods using the apical meristem tissue; vegetative propagation by cuttings will mean that the cutting carries the virus. The mite Cecidophyopsis ribis dislikes high humidity, and overhead irrigation will discourage its activity. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' None

'''Chemical:''' None for the virus, but the mite Cecidophyopsis ribis may be controlled by spraying with spray a product containing fenpropathrin which will act as a contact acaricide.

'''Legislative:''' None specific, but the general principle of the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 would prevent the movement of diseased plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease does not kill the plant, but the plant suffers a general lack of vigour, its life is shortened, and changes in its cellular structure affect its usefulness. In the case of blackcurrant this means significantly reduced crops.

Fireblight

2006-03-23T07:57:48Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Bacterium
*Order: Enterobacteriales
*Scientific name: Erwinia amylovora
*English name: Fireblight

{|
|+'''Fireblight'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the shepherd’s crook shape of infected shoots]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:fire2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms - the ‘burnt’ appearance of stem and fruit]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' No visible signs.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Severe wilting of leaves, shoots and flowers. Ends of shoots show a ‘shepherd’s crook shape, and a bacterial ooze can be seen issuing from the lenticels. Dark brown, burnt- like patches appear on branches, with wilting leaves. Patches spread to the trunk, other branches become infected and the tree can die within 2-3 months. Sunken cankers appear, and if the bark is removed a reddish-brown stain is seen.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology:''' This is a parasitic bacterium, which is carried by wind-borne moisture in the air, and visiting insects. It can over-winter in living tissue on certain members of the Rosaceae family, such as Malus spp. Pyrus spp. Crataegus spp. Pyracantha spp. and Sorbus spp. As temperatures rise in spring, and the leaf and flowers buds start to open, warm moist conditions enable the bacteria to multiply and infect blossom and the shoot tips. Alternatively, the bacteria can newly arrive during these springtime conditions. It is able to enter the plant through stomata, lenticels and wounds, and is thought to colonise the stigma of flowers and enter through the nectaries. Once it has infected the plant, it multiplies rapidly. Bacteria reproduce asexually, through binary fission, where a cell wall grows through the centre, then each bacterium cell splits into two, and in favourable conditions, this continues until the host food source is exhausted, and the bacteria die unless another food source becomes available.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural: Purchase only certified virus-free plants.''' Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Prune away any suspected recently infected wood 60cm below the site of infection may stop the spread of the disease. Strict hygiene is essential when pruning, tools must be sterilised after each tree has been pruned, to avoid spreading the disease from tree to tree. Avoid planting susceptible trees in known infected areas, and site apple & pear orchards away from hedgerows containing potential native hosts such as Crataegus spp. and Sorbus spp. Plant cultivars with resistance to the disease. Control insect vectors of the disease where possible, which will mean using specific biological or chemical means that do not affect pollinators and beneficial insects.

'''Biological and Chemical:''' None

'''Legislative:''' Listed as a quarantine disease in the EC Plant Health Directive and the Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993, and must be reported to DEFRA if found on registered growers premises. The Plant Health and Seeds Inspector has the power to visit and remove infected plants.

'''How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' The disease usually kills the plant.

Peas

2006-03-22T10:10:18Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Seeds]]
*[[Germinating tips]]

With peas I have found that if you chit them prior to sowing, good results are to be had. To do this soak the peas in in cold water in a shallow dish or tray, just covering the top. Refresh the water 24 hours later, but this time do not completely cover the peas, leave the top bit above the water line, by the second day you should see a sprout emerging from each pea, next day sow. I have done this with my oregon sugar snap peas, they went into gutters 3 weeks ago after chitting, in a cold frame with no heat, & every one is now up & when the weather gets warmer they will just be slipped into a trench in the ground

Germinating Tips

2006-03-22T10:09:18Z

Mikeb: Germinating Tips moved to Germinating tips

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Seeds]]
*[[Peas]]

Peach leaf curl

2006-03-22T08:50:57Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Disease type: Fungus
*Order: Taphrinales
*Scientific name: Taphrina deformans
*English name: Peach leaf curl

Biology, reproduction and spread, and the relationship of its spread to its biology: This is an obligate parasitic fungus, which over-winters in cracks in the bark on peach, Prunus persica and almond, Prunus dulcis. As temperatures rise in spring, and the leaf buds start to open, rain washes the fungus spores onto the leaves. When temperatures are in the range 50-70oC the fungus enters the leaf by means of extending root-like structures called haustoria, and feeds on nutrients within the leaf. It is thought that the fungus promotes auxin-like and cytokinin-like compounds, or the leaf produces abnormal combinations of auxins and cytokinins, causing malformed development of the leaf in the form of warping and reddish blisters. A white spore bloom is produced in summer, and the spores are distributed in the wind, so at this point the fungus can freely travel to other trees in the vicinity.
Prevention and control treatments and methods.
Physical and cultural: Place a cover over the top of the tree during winter and spring to keep the branches dry. Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Pick off any distorted leaves and dispose of them before the white bloom appears. Apply organic matter as a mulch, water and fertilise to keep the tree healthy. Select cultivars with some resistance, for example Prunus persica ‘Redhaven’.
Biological – together with benefits and limitations: None
Chemical: Apply as a spray over the entire tree, a fungicide containing copper, such as Bordeaux mixture or containing mancozeb, such as Dithane 945. These must be applied before the leaves emerge and according to the recommended timing instructions provided by the manufacturer. They are not effective once the fungus has attacked the leaves.
Legislative: None
How the disease affects the health and vitality of the host plant: Leaves are damaged and unsightly, and will fall in severe infestations. Even though a fresh crop of leaves may appear, the tree will suffer stress and growth may be stunted. Heavy infestations will affect the peach fruit crop rendering it unfit for sale.

Printable version

2006-03-21T14:41:07Z

Mikeb:

Red spider mite

2006-03-20T19:19:27Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Mite
*Order: Arachnida
*Scientific name: Tetranychus urticae
*English name: Glasshouse red spider mite

{|
|+'''Red Spider Mite'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 0.5mm long, egg – 0.1mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms – leaf speckled.]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Rsm3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Signs - Web & mites]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' The mites are visible on the leaves, initially on the underside. They congregate on the growing shoots, and webs can be seen.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Myriad tiny whitish speckles are visible on the leaves as a result of the sap sucking action from the underside, where there may be yellowish orange discolouration. After prolonged attack, the leaves appear bleached. Close examination shows the remaining transparent upper epidermis of the leaf. The leaves may drop.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The lifecycle is incomplete, with many generations in a year. Mites over-winter as dormant adults in crevices in bark outside and in glasshouses. Activity starts in late spring as temperatures increase and females crawl to infest plants, feeding on cellular sap with their tiny piercing and sucking mouthparts, injecting poison into the leaf mesophyll cells, and laying eggs. Larvae with three pairs of legs emerge, feed, and develop into nymphs with four pairs of legs. Within two weeks they develop into adults, mate, and females lay eggs. The eggs can hatch within a week at temperatures over 25oC and the lifecycle continues so numbers increase considerably within a short time. They prefer low humidity. The mites crawl amongst plants, and can be transferred from area to area by wind, on animals and clothing. Their colour changes from yellowish to reddish in autumn as days shorten, and females that have already been fertilised, move away to hibernate in crevices.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Purchase clean plants from reputable growers. Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Use overhead sprays for irrigation to increase humidity. When checking plants for infestation, check known infested areas last to prevent the spread via clothing. Fumigate glasshouses in winter to kill dormant mites. Encourage natural predators like lacewings, Chrysopa spp. by providing food sources such as poached-egg plants, Limnanthes douglasii.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Introduce a predatory mite such as Phytoseiulus persimilis. They are most active when temperatures exceed 20oC, so are really only effective from May onwards, but in order for them to reproduce more quickly than the pest, they need temperatures of 28oC. They, unlike the pest, prefer high humidity, so this method of cultural control can be used alongside the biological control. The benefit of using these methods is that they are harmless to humans, so crops can be eaten safely.

'''Chemical:''' For outdoor and indoor crops spray a product containing fenbutatin oxide which will act as a contact acaricide, or a product such as Savona, which is a soft soap type containing fatty acids.

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves are damaged; the mesophyll layer of cells is killed so they cannot photosynthesise. The plant will not thrive, and flowers and fruits will be stunted. Heavy infestations will kill the plant.

Peach-potato aphid

2006-03-20T11:04:20Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Insect
*Order: Hemiptera
*Scientific name: Myzus persicae
*English name: Peach-potato aphid

{|
|+'''Peach-potato aphid'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 1.5-2.5mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Nymph – 1-2mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Signs of aphid and symptoms of crinkled leaf]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:ppa4.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Secondary symptoms of sooty mould growing on shiny honeydew]]
|-
|-
|}

'''signs of infestation:'''

Vine weevil

2006-03-20T10:45:31Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

*Pest type: Insect
*Order: Coleoptera
*Scientific name: Otiorhynchus armadillo
*English name: Vine weevil

{|
|+'''Vine weevil'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine1.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Adult – 6-10mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine2.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Larva – 10-15mm long]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:vine3.jpg|thumb|left|150px|Symptoms – leaf notches]]
|-
|
|-
|}

'''Signs of infestation:''' The adult weevil is difficult to spot, as it tends to hide away under debris during the day and feed at night. Larvae can be found within the soil around the root-ball of a wide range of plant species, and particularly in container grown plants.

'''Symptoms of infestation:''' Notches chewed in leaves by adults, particularly seen initially around the edges of the leaves, making them look unsightly. The plant may suddenly wilt as a result of damage caused by larvae feeding on roots.

'''Biology, reproduction and spread:''' The lifecycle is complete, with one generation in a year. Vine weevils are all female and reproduce by parthenogenesis. Adults emerge from the soil in early spring and commence feeding on leaves with their biting and chewing mouthparts, then lay eggs on the soil during spring and summer. The eggs hatch after around two to three weeks. The larvae emerge, and feed in the soil on plant roots with their biting mouthparts for around three to four months during summer and into autumn. In late autumn the larvae enter deeper into the soil. They pupate in winter in the soil. However, it is possible for the adult vine weevil and the larval stage to remain active during winter, especially in the sheltered conditions provided by container grown plants in nurseries. Although the adult is wingless, it is mobile during its reproductive stage and can crawl from place to place and over a potential two to three year life span is capable of laying many eggs.

'''Prevention and control treatments and methods.'''

'''Physical and cultural:''' Purchase container grown plants from a reputable source, and avoid any that show signs and symptoms of infestation. Remove any debris in which the adults can hide during the day. Traps formed from folded cloth or paper placed near plants can be inspected regularly for signs of the presence of adult vine weevils.
Check plants regularly for signs and symptoms of infestation. Encourage natural predators such as ground beetles, birds, frogs and toads by providing habitats.

'''Biological – together with benefits and limitations:''' Apply a parasitic nematode such as Heterorhabditis megidis. This is purchased as a powder and then mixed with water and the soil is drenched with the suspension. The nematodes will enter the body of the larva and release a toxic bacterium that will kill the larva. The benefit of using this method is that the nematode is harmless to humans, so crops can be eaten safely. The effectiveness of the nematode is dependent upon the soil being moist, so the nematodes can move through it, and the soil temperature being consistently above 12oC, so the nematodes are active. There is no biological control for the adult weevil.

'''Chemical:''' Apply a contact insecticide as a soil drench containing imidacloprid or thiacloprid for larvae. Adults tend to be difficult to target effectively.

'''Legislative:''' None

'''How the pest affects the health and vitality of the host plant:''' Leaves are damaged although this is more unsightly than causing a serious problem. Roots are damaged, and the plant’s ability take up water and nutrients is impaired. The plant will not thrive. In the case of prolonged attack causing severe damage to roots, the death of the plant will ensue.

Diagnosis, treatment, prevention and control

2006-03-20T09:05:33Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

[[Plant health care - An overview]]

'''''Diagnosis, treatment, prevention and control.'''''

'''Diagnosis''' can be defined as the identification of the specific pest or disease. Inspecting the plant and the area surrounding it will reveal signs and symptoms.

It is essential that the host plant be correctly identified first, as this enables pest and disease identification to be more accurately made. It is impossible to effectively treat or control a pest or disease without first undertaking a diagnosis of the problem.

'''The signs''' of a problem will be physical manifestations of the pest or disease, such as caterpillars on a cabbage leaf. It is only possible to see these signs when the pest or disease is visible to the naked eye, so viruses and bacteria do not show signs, only symptoms.

'''The symptoms''' will be the effect on the host plant, such as the destruction of the cabbage leaf by the caterpillar, or the brownish-black, foul smelling lesions caused by Bacterial Soft Rot – Erwinia carotovera on Allium spp.

'''Prevention''' can be defined as avoiding the pest or disease by anticipating it and taking action. Planting resistant cultivars is a form of prevention. By preventing the problem in the first place, costly treatments can become unnecessary.

'''Treatment''' can be defined as the action taken against the pest or disease to help restore the plant to full health or prevent the pest or disease from establishing itself.

For plant disorders, such as nutritional deficiencies, applying the correct type of feed will be an effective treatment, or where a plant is wilting due to lack of water, irrigation.

Treatments can be preventative, such as in the application of fungicide when watering seedlings, to help prevent damping-off caused by Pythium spp. of fungus.

Treatments and controls must be appropriate and timely to be effective.

'''Control''' can be defined as taking action to limit the effect of the pest or disease, and can take several forms.

Physical and cultural controls include using barrier methods such as ‘Enviromesh’ to prevent insect pests reaching plants and regular weeding to remove plant hosts.

Pesticides include biological methods in which particular predators are introduced expressly to attack pests, and chemical applications such as spraying infested plants with approved products.

Legislation controls the spread of certain pests and diseases by restricting the movement of host plants and requiring producers to operate quality control measures.

Integrated pest management uses a blend of methods in a complementary manner to control pests and diseases, with the aim of doing so effectively, without wasting resources and with minimal impact upon the environment.

Plant health care - An overview

2006-03-20T08:32:32Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

[[Diagnosis, treatment, prevention and control]]

=='''''Plant healthcare - principles, general prevention and specific methods.'''''==

Plants that are healthy are less susceptible to attack by pests and diseases, and the health of the plant can be maintained in a number of ways.

•'''Quality of plants.''' Where a plant certification system is applicable, purchasing certified stock will give the best chance that the plant is healthy and free from problems such as viral diseases. This means that not only is the purchased plant of good quality, but there is less likelihood that diseases will be introduced into any existing stock that is being grown. On a general basis, plants should be examined when being purchased. They should have a good fibrous root system, and be free from obvious physical damage, and signs of pests and diseases. The plant should be well established and appear healthy.

•'''Selection of resistant plants.''' Where certain pests or diseases are known to be a problem, the selection of resistant cultivars can reduce the risk. The carrot, Daucus carota is prone to attack by carrot root fly Psila rosea, and there are some resistant varieties available, like Sytan, available from Marshalls or Flyaway from Thompson & Morgan.

•'''Selection of suitable plants for the available site.''' It is necessary to assess the needs of the plant in conjunction with the growing conditions, for example shade loving plants would not grow well in hot, sunny sites. Plants that need high light levels and sharp drainage, like the alpine Cobweb Houseleek, Sempervivum arachnoideum would not grow well in shady, boggy, conditions.

•'''Timing.''' Plants should be purchased at the optimum time for planting so that they can establish themselves easily. For example, planting shrubs in the autumn means that the soil is still warm and there is a better chance that a good root system will ensue. Bare root trees should only be purchased during their dormant period during winter. Certain pests and diseases have particularly active phases within their lifecycle, and an example would be to grow early varieties of potato to avoid the effects of potato blight, the fungus Phytopthera infestans, as the crop would be harvested before the disease has a chance to affect it.

•'''Soil texture and structure.''' The characteristics of the soil affect plant health. In an ideal garden soil the constituent proportions would be: water 25%, air 25%, organic matter 5%, and mineral particles 45%. Some plants prefer a very free-draining soil, whilst others such as bog plants prefer much moister conditions. A clay soil will tend to hold water and nutrients,
although can be prone to water-logging in winter, whilst a sandy soil holds less water and nutrients are likely to leach out in winter rains. The addition of organic matter can improve all types of soil.

•'''Soil pH and nutrients.''' Most plants do well at a pH level of around 6.5, however some have different requirements. Shrubs such as Rhododendron sp. need acidic soils, with a pH of 5.5 – 6.0. The pH level of the soil will affect the uptake of nutrients in the plant. Where it is intended to grow crops on a commercial scale, it is necessary to identify their exact pH and nutritional needs, and get a soil analysis test done. DEFRA booklet RB209 gives useful advice.

•'''Temperature.''' Temperature affects enzymes within the plant and most plants will only photosynthesise efficiently in the range 0 – 36o C. Growth processes are affected as respiration increases with temperature, as does transpiration. Excessively high temperatures during the day can mean that the plant loses more water than is available to it, and so it will suffer. Temperature will affect the germination process.

•'''Light levels.''' The duration and intensity must be sufficient for photosynthesis. Levels of light between 1000 and 30,000 lux in the wavelength range 400 nm to 700nm are required, and this can be particularly critical for plants under indoor cultivation. They can be affected adversely by dirty glass reducing light levels, or a positive effect induced by the use of lamps that emit the correct wavelength and intensity of light. Plants in the outdoor environment can be affected by their situation. If the aspect is open, or south-facing, the light levels will generally be high, but if the plant is sited under trees or shrubs, the light levels will be reduced.

•'''Air movement.''' Hot drying winds should be avoided as leaves may become desiccated, and a sheltered site will assist this. Rose powdery mildew, Spaerotheca pannosa, thrives in hot dry conditions, so these should be avoided for Rosa spp. Good air circulation is important however, as humid conditions can promote the growth of other fungal diseases like downy mildew Perenospora destructor on Allium spp. and bacterial diseases.

•'''Pollution.''' Where air quality is poor due to pollution, or salt laden winds in coastal areas, and soil becomes contaminated, plants with good tolerance to these conditions can be selected, such as thrift, Armeria maritime which is tolerant to salt, and trees like Alnus and Betula spp. which are tolerant of roadside pollution.

•'''Plant management and cultivation.''' Pests and diseases can be deterred in a number of ways, and good hygiene practices and cultivation methods will help to increase plant health.

•'''Remove plant debris''', as this can provide shelter and breeding grounds for pests and diseases.

•'''Prune''' away dead, damaged and diseased wood to remove sources of disease and help to prevent the spread of disease.

•'''Clean tools''' thoroughly after use to help to prevent the spread of viral disease from plant to plant.

•'''Weed regularly''' to remove host plants.

•'''Add organic matter''' to the soil to improve structure and fertility and ensure that plants nutritional needs are met.

•'''Irrigate''' when necessary. Watering once a week thoroughly to moisten the soil to a depth of at least 15cm is more effective than light sprinklings on the surface, which will evaporate more quickly and also encourage shallow rooting.

•'''Apply the principles of crop rotation''' to lessen the risk of building up pests and diseases. For example, when planting a new rose, don’t plant where an old rose was sited. Don’t grow potatoes on the same part of your allotment year after year; choose a different part, following a three or four year cycle.

•'''Walk around''' the growing area on a regular basis and look carefully for signs of pests and diseases. Regular inspections can detect problems at an early stage, which makes them easier to tackle when dealt with promptly.

•'''Encourage natural predators''' by providing habitats for them to supply their needs for shelter and food.

=='''''How the knowledge of the biology of pests and diseases enables effective control techniques.'''''==

Possessing knowledge of the biology of a pest or disease makes it possible for the horticulturalist to choose the most effective ways to combat them.

Many pests and diseases become more active as temperature increases. If action is taken at the start of this period, it can be more successful than after the pest or disease has become more established.

Knowing the times when pests start to become a problem is important for growers. Where chemical control is used in agriculture, commercial growers make use of forecasting techniques so that they get to know when Carrot root fly, Psila rosea is prevalent and can time their spraying operations to maximise effect.

The way that a pest or disease feeds can determine the type of chemical method that will have the best results.

Sap-sucking insects such as Myzus persicae can be controlled with a systemic insecticide. This type of insecticide is absorbed into the sap of the plant, so the insect will ingest it when feeding.

Insects that bite and chew such as the larvae of Pieris brassica do not digest so much sap in proportion to their body size, and so are better controlled with a stomach poison.

The predators of pests are commonly used as biological control, and making sure that these are applied in optimum conditions – at the best temperature to ensure activity including feeding and reproduction – means they will be more effective. Sometimes these conditions are similar to the needs of the pest, sometimes they differ, as in the case of predatory mite Phytoseiulus persimilis, used as a biological control for Tetranychus urticae, the glasshouse red spider mite. The pest prefers low humidity, and the predator prefers high humidity, so this is a case in which introducing the predator and increasing the level of humidity to suit the predator will have the best effect of controlling the pest.

Knowing the lifecycle of pests and diseases can determine cultivational methods. If a pest or disease over-winters under debris, then by clearing away debris the habitat is removed and the pest or disease controlled.

Similarly, it is important to know the lifecycle of any predators that are used for control. Aphidoletes aphidimyza, used as a biological control for Myzus persicae, pupates only when day lengths exceed 15 hours, so needs to be used between late spring and early autumn if the population is to be sufficient to deal with the pest.

Virus infected plants cannot be cured. This means that there is little point applying products in an effort to remedy the symptoms of the virus, the only way to destroy that batch of virus is to destroy the plant.

However, vectors like insects and mites transmit viruses, and pruning knives, wind and water also transfer them. It is possible to use means to control these, for example sterilising pruning knives, controlling the insects and mites by chemical, biological or barrier methods.

Many biological controls need to be used immediately they are purchased, so consideration needs to be given about making available resources to administer them at the correct time.

Chemical controls may need to be used, for example in the case of the larvae of vine weevil, Otiorhynchus armadillo, which may be active in container grown plants over the winter period, when biological controls may not be effective at low temperatures.

=='''''The main points of health and safety and other legislation that applies to pest and disease control in the UK.'''''==

Many countries all over the world adhere to the International Plant Protection Convention, which sets standards for plant health quality assurance, called International Standards for Phytosanitary Measures. These countries have inspection bodies, National Plant Protection Organisations, who can issue a phytosanitary certificate to accompany the plants all the way through their transportation to the retailer, and which verifies that the plants have been produced under conditions and inspected to a level that ensures that the risk of infestation with pests and diseases is very low. The certificates ensure traceability of the plants back to the third party originators, and are used for countries outside the EU. For trade wholly within the EU, plant passports are used instead for certain types of plant, including plants like seed potatoes, fruit and ornamental trees of Malus spp. and other ornamentals such as Viburnum spp.

The Plant Health Act 1967 gave powers for authorities to impose restrictions to protect plants from attack by pests and diseases which may be prevalent in foreign countries, and to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

The Plant Health (Great Britain) Order 1993 as amended, deals with current requirements under UK law, covering the powers of government officials to enter and inspect production and storage facilities and to prohibit the movement of plants that are suspected to be contaminated with pests and diseases. It lists specific banned insect, mites and nematode pests together with fungal, viral and bacterial diseases. It mentions import restrictions on many plants and plant materials, which include seed potatoes, certain citrus fruits and timber products, strawberry plants, plum and apple trees, and also covers contaminants which could be found on used agricultural machinery for re-sale. A list of plants that require phytosanitary certification is shown, and includes cultivars and species of plants such as Narcissus and Begonia.

The Health and Safety at Work provided powers for governments to issue regulations and orders to ensure that employers meet their responsibilities for ensuring the health and safety of those involved in the business, whether they are staff, subcontractors, customers or the general public.

The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health Regulations 2002 requires that employers ensure that employees are protected from exposure to hazardous substances such as chemicals that may be found in pesticides, or microorganisms. They must undertake risk assessments to help them decide what steps to take to prevent harm by eliminating or reducing the risk, control the risk, monitor the control measures and any exposure to employees, and carry out health checks on employees where appropriate. Employers are responsible for training employees properly, and for preparing plans to deal with any accidents that may happen involving hazardous substances.

The Control of Pesticides Regulations (COPR) 1986 as amended shows types of pesticides which are approved for use, the application methods, and it aims to protect the health of people, creatures, plants and the general environment, whilst controlling pests efficiently and humanely. It demands that users follow codes of practice to administer pesticides safely, that suppliers and employers store pesticides safely. The Control of Pesticides [Amendment] Regulations, 1997 requires that users such as employees and contractors undergo formal training through bodies like Lantra and achieve a certificate of competence, and levels of competence that can be achieved include PA1, PA2 and PA6 certification.
The Plant Protection Products Regulations 2003 covers the approval procedures for manufacture and regulation of plant protection products including pesticides and also lays down rules on the labelling and other health and safety information which must be provided by the manufacturer to the consumer.

The Contaminants in Food (England) Regulations 2003 sets out requirements for the control in levels of contaminants such as pesticides including incorporating EC Directive No. 194/97 which sets maximum levels for nitrates in Lactuca sativa (lettuce) and Spinacia oleracea (spinach). Different levels apply to indoor crops, and to processed spinach, and also vary by season. There is a review underway, and the UK is monitoring the levels. Data is collected for this review (EC Regulation No. 864/99). This legislation also covers disposal of foodstuffs which do not comply with the legislation but which is not deemed to be harmful to countries outside the EC, and makes it an offence to mix crops that do comply with crops that don’t.

The UK Pesticides Guide Blue Book shows a list of all approved products at date of publishing; it is now possible to access updated information via the internet www.pesticides.gov.uk. It is illegal to use unapproved products. The Green book shows information on pesticides direct from the pesticide manufacturers.

Newline

2006-03-17T10:25:34Z

Mikeb:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newline

Text commands

2006-03-17T09:51:07Z

Mikeb: /* Images */

==Wiki markup==
The '''wiki markup''' is the syntax system you can use to format a Wikipedia page.

In the left column of the table below, you can see what effects are possible. In the right column, you can see how those effects were achieved. In other words, to make text look like it looks in the left column, type it in the format you see in the right column.

You may want to keep this page open in a separate browser window for reference. '''If you want to try out things without danger of doing any harm, you can do so in the [[Wikipedia:Sandbox|Sandbox]]'''. Try opening the Sandbox in a separate window or tab and keeping this page open for reference.

===Examples===

{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|
Start your [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style (headings)|sections]] as follows:




'''New section'''

'''Subsection'''

'''Sub-subsection'''

* Start with a second-level heading (<tt><nowiki>==</nowiki></tt>); don't use first-level headings (=).
* Don't skip levels (for example, second-level followed by fourth-level).
* A [[#Placement_of_the_Table_of_Contents_.28TOC.29|Table of Contents]] will automatically be added to an article that has four or more sections.
*If appropriate, place subsections in an appropriate order. If listing countries, place them in alphabetical order rather than, say, relative to population of [[OECD]] countries, or some random order.
|
<pre><nowiki>
==New section==

===Subsection===

====Sub-subsection====
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A single [[newline]]
generally has no effect on the layout.
These can be used to separate
sentences within a paragraph.
Some editors find that this aids editing
and improves the function ''diff''
(used internally to compare
different versions of a page).

But an empty line
starts a new paragraph.

* When used in a list, a newline ''does'' affect the layout ([[#lists|see below]]).
|
<pre><nowiki>
A single [[newline]]
generally has no effect on the layout.
These can be used to separate
sentences within a paragraph.
Some editors find that this aids editing
and improves the function ''diff''
(used internally to compare
different versions of a page).

But an empty line
starts a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can break lines 
without starting a new paragraph.

* Please use this sparingly.
* Close markup between lines, do not start a [[link]] or ''italics'' or '''bold''' on one line and close it on the next.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can break lines 
without starting a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="lists" valign="top"
|
* It's easy to create a list:
** Start every line with a star ([[asterisk]]).
*** More stars means deeper levels.
**** A newline in a list
marks the end of a list item.

* An empty line starts a new list.
|
<pre><nowiki>
* It's easy to create a list:
** Start every line with a star.
*** More stars means deeper levels.
**** A newline in a list
marks the end of a list item.

* An empty line starts a new list.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
# Numbered lists are also good
## very organized
## easy to follow
### easier still
|
<pre><nowiki>
# Numbered lists are also good
## very organized
## easy to follow
### easier still
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top" id="definition"
|
; Definition list : list of definitions
; item : the item's definition
; another item
: the other item's definition

* Begin with a semicolon. One item per line; a newline can appear before the colon, but using a space before the colon improves parsing.
|
<pre><nowiki>
; Definition list : list of definitions
; item : the item's definition
; another item
: the other item's definition
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* You can even create mixed lists
*# and nest them
*#* like this
*#*; can I mix definition list as well?
*#*: yes
*#*; how?
*#*: it's easy as
*#*:* a
*#*:* b
*#*:* c
|
<pre><nowiki>
* You can even create mixed lists
*# and nest them
*#* like this
*#*; can I mix definition list as well?
*#*: yes
*#*; how?
*#*: it's easy as
*#*:* a
*#*:* b
*#*:* c
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
: A colon indents a line or paragraph.
A manual newline starts a new paragraph.

* This is primarily for displayed material, but is also used for discussion on [[Wikipedia:Talk page|Talk page]]s.
|
<pre><nowiki>
: A colon indents a line or paragraph.
A manual newline starts a new paragraph.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign=top
|
When there is a need for separating a block of text
<blockquote>
the '''blockquote''' command will indent both margins when needed instead of the left margin only as the colon does.
</blockquote>
This is useful for (as the name says) inserting blocks of quoted (and cited) text.
|
<pre><nowiki>
<blockquote>
The '''blockquote''' command will indent
both margins when needed instead of the
left margin only as the colon does.
</blockquote>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign=top
|
(See formula on right):

*This is useful for:
** pasting preformatted text;
** algorithm descriptions;
** program source code;
** [[ASCII art]];
** chemical structures;
* '''WARNING''': If you make it wide, you [[page widening|force the whole page to be wide]] and hence less readable, especially for people who use lower resolutions. Never start ordinary lines with spaces.
|
<pre><nowiki>
IF a line starts with a space THEN
it will be formatted exactly
as typed;
in a fixed-width font;
lines will not wrap;
ENDIF
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
<center>Centered text.</center>

* Please note the American spelling of "center".
|
<pre><nowiki>
<center>Centered text.</center>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A [[horizontal dividing line]]:
this is above it
----
and this is below it.

* Mainly useful for
**disambiguation - but to be used sparsely, only when separating completely different, unrelated (groups of) meanings
**separating threads on Talk pages.
|
<pre><nowiki>
A [[horizontal dividing line]]:
this is above it
----
and this is below it.
</nowiki></pre>
|}

===Links and URLs===
{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|- style="width=100%"
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|
London has [[public transport]].

* A link to another Wikipedia article.
* Internally, the first letter of the target page is automatically capitalized and spaces are represented as underscores (typing an underscore in the link has the same effect as typing a space, but is not recommended).
* Thus the link above is to the [[URL]] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_transport, which is the Wikipedia article with the name "Public transport". See also [[Wikipedia:Canonicalization]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
London has [[public transport]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
San Francisco also has
[[public transport|
public transportation]].

* Same target, different name.
* This is a [[piped link]].
* The "piped" text must be placed first, the text that will be displayed, second.
|
<pre><nowiki>
San Francisco also has
[[public transport|
public transportation]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
San Francisco also has
[[public transport]]ation.

Examples include [[bus]]es, [[taxi]]s,
and [[streetcar]]s.

* Endings are blended into the link.
* Preferred style is to use this instead of a piped link, if possible.
|
<pre><nowiki>
San Francisco also has
[[public transport]]ation.

Examples include [[bus]]es, [[taxi]]s,
and [[streetcar]]s.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
See the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style]].

* A link to another [[Wikipedia:namespace|namespace]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
See the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style]].
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="link-to-section" valign="top"
|
[[Economics#See also]] is a link
to a section within another page.

[[#Links and URLs]] is a link
to a section on the current page.

[[#example]] is a link to an
anchor that was created using
<div id="example">an id attribute</div>

* The part after the number sign (#) must match a section heading on the page. Matches must be exact in terms of spelling, case, and punctuation. Links to non-existent sections are not broken; they are treated as links to the top of the page.
* Identifiers may be created by attaching an <code>id="..."></code> attribute to almost any HTML element. This doesn't work with legacy browsers.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Economics#See also]] is a link
to a section within another page.

[[#Links and URLs]] is a link
to a section on the current page.

[[#example]] is a link to an
anchor that was created using
<div id="example">an id attribute
</div>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Automatically hide stuff in parentheses:
[[kingdom (biology)|kingdom]].

Automatically hide namespace:
[[Wikipedia:Village Pump|Village Pump]].

Or both:
[[Wikipedia:Manual of Style (headings)|Manual of Style]]

But not:
[[Wikipedia:Manual of Style#Links|]]

* The server fills in the part after the pipe character (|) when you save the page. The next time you open the edit box you will see the expanded piped link. When [[Wikipedia:Show preview|preview]]ing your edits, you will not see the expanded form until you press '''Save''' and '''Edit''' again. The same applies to links to sections within the same page ([[#link-to-section|see previous entry]]).
|
<pre><nowiki>
Automatically hide stuff
in parentheses:
[[kingdom (biology)|]].

Automatically hide namespace:
[[Wikipedia:Village Pump|]].

Or both:
[[Wikipedia:
Manual of Style (headings)|]]

But not:
[[Wikipedia:
Manual of Style#Links|]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[Agriculture in London]] is a page
that does not exist yet.

* You can create it by clicking on the link (but please do not do so with this particular link).
* To create a new page:
*# Create a link to it on some other (related) page.
*# Save that page.
*# Click on the link you just made. The new page will open for editing.
* For more information, see [[Wikipedia:How to start a page|How to start a page]] and check out Wikipedia's [[Wikipedia:Naming conventions|naming conventions]].
* Please do not create a new article without linking to it from at least one other article.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Agriculture in London]]
is a page
that does not exist yet.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[Wikipedia:How to edit a page]] is this page.

* [[Self link]]s appear as bold text when the article is viewed.
* Do not use this technique to make the article name bold in the first paragraph; see the [[Wikipedia:Manual of Style#Article titles|Manual of Style]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Wikipedia:
How to edit a page]]
is this page.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
When adding a comment to a Talk page,
you should sign it by adding
three tildes to add your user name:
: [[User:Brockert|Ben Brockert]]
or four to add user name plus date/time:
: [[User:Brockert|Ben Brockert]] 00:18, Nov 19, 2004 (UTC)
Five tildes gives the date/time alone:
: 00:18, Nov 19, 2004 (UTC)

* The first two both provide a link to your [[Wikipedia:user page|user page]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
When adding a comment to a Talk page,
you should sign it by adding
three tildes to add your user name:
: ~~~
or four for user name plus date/time:
: ~~~~
Five tildes gives the date/time alone:
: ~~~~~
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* [[Wikipedia:Redirect|Redirect]] one article title to another by placing a directive like the one shown to the right on the ''first'' line of the article (such as at a page titled "[[USA]]").
* Note that, while it is possible to link to a section, it is not possible to redirect to a section. For example, "<nowiki>#REDIRECT [[United States#History]]</nowiki>" will redirect to the [[United States]] page, but not to any particular section on it. This feature may be implemented in the future - see [[MediaZilla:1837|feature request 1837]] (it appears as a bug).
|
<pre><nowiki>
#REDIRECT [[United States]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* Link to a page on the same subject in another language by using a link of the form: <nowiki>[[language code:Title]]</nowiki>.
* It does not matter where you put these links while editing as they will always show up in the same place when you save the page, but placement at the end of the edit box is recommended.
* Please see [[Wikipedia:Interlanguage links]] and the [[Wikipedia:Complete list of language wikis available|list of languages and codes]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[fr:Wikipédia:Aide]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''What links here''' and '''Related changes'''
pages can be linked as:
[[Special:Whatlinkshere/Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
and
[[Special:Recentchangeslinked/Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]

|
<pre><nowiki>
'''What links here''' and
'''Related changes'''
pages can be linked as:
[[Special:Whatlinkshere/Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
and
[[Special:Recentchangeslinked/Wikipedia:How to edit a page]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A user's '''Contributions''' page can be linked as:
[[Special:Contributions/UserName]]
or
[[Special:Contributions/192.0.2.0]]
|
<pre><nowiki>
A user's '''Contributions''' page
can be linked as:
[[Special:Contributions/UserName]]
or
[[Special:Contributions/192.0.2.0]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* To put an article in a [[Wikipedia:Category]], place a link like the one to the right anywhere in the article. As with interlanguage links, it does not matter where you put these links while editing as they will always show up in the same place when you save the page, but placement at the end of the edit box is recommended.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[Category:Character sets]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
* To ''link'' to a [[Wikipedia:Category]] page without putting the article into the category, use an initial colon (:) in the link.
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[:Category:Character sets]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- id="link-external" valign="top"
|
Three ways to link to external (non-wiki) sources:
# Bare URL: http://www.nupedia.com/ (bad style)
# Unnamed link: [http://www.nupedia.com/] (only used within article body for footnotes)
# Named link: [http://www.nupedia.com Nupedia]

:See [[MetaWikiPedia:Interwiki_map]] for the list of shortcuts.

* Square brackets indicate an external link. Note the use of a ''space'' (not a pipe) to separate the URL from the link text in the "named" version.
* In the [[URL]], all symbols must be among: '''A-Z a-z 0-9 . _ \ / ~ % - + & # ? ! = ( ) @ \x80-\xFF'''
* If a URL contains a character not in this list, it should be encoded by using a percent sign (%) followed by the [[hexadecimal|hex]] code of the character, which can be found in the table of [[ASCII#ASCII printable characters|ASCII printable characters]]. For example, the caret character (^) would be encoded in a URL as '''%5E'''.
* If the "named" version contains a closing square bracket "]", then you must use the [[HTML]] special character syntax, i.e. '''&#93;''' otherwise the [[MediaWiki]] software will prematurely interpret this as the end of the external link.
* There is a class that can be used to remove the arrow image from the external link. It is used in [[Template:Ref]] to stop the URL from expanding during printing. It should '''never''' be used in the main body of an article. However, there is an exception: wikilinks in Image markup. An example of the markup is as follows:
** Markup: <nowiki>
[http://www.sysinternals.com
/ntw2k/freeware/winobj.shtml
WinObj]</nowiki>
** Display: <nowiki>
[http://www.sysinternals.com/
ntw2k/freeware/winobj.shtml WinObj]
</nowiki>
* See [[Wikipedia:External links]] for style issues.
|
<pre><nowiki>
Three ways to link to
external (non-wiki) sources:
# Bare URL:
http://www.nupedia.com/
(bad style)
# Unnamed link:
[http://www.nupedia.com/]
(only used within article
body for footnotes)
# Named link:
[http://www.nupedia.com Nupedia]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Linking to other wikis:
# [[Interwiki]] link: [[Wiktionary:Hello]]
# Named interwiki link: [[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]
# Interwiki link without prefix: [[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]

* All of these forms lead to the URL http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Hello
* Note that interwiki links use the ''internal'' link style.
* See [[MetaWikiPedia:Interwiki_map]] for the list of shortcuts; if the site you want to link to is not on the list, use an external link ([[#link-external|see above]]).
* See also [[Wikipedia:How to link to Wikimedia projects]].

Linking to another language's wiktionary:
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|fr:bonjour]]

* All of these forms lead to the URL http://fr.wiktionary.org/wiki/bonjour
|
<pre><nowiki>
Linking to other wikis:
# [[Interwiki]] link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello]]
# Named interwiki link:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|Hello]]
# Interwiki link without prefix:
[[Wiktionary:Hello|]]

Linking to another
language's wiktionary:
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|bonjour]]
# [[Wiktionary:fr:bonjour|]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
ISBN 012345678X

ISBN 0-12-345678-X

* Link to books using their [[Wikipedia:ISBN|ISBN]]. This is preferred to linking to a specific online bookstore, because it gives the reader a choice of vendors. However, if one bookstore or online service provides additional free information, such as table of contents or excerpts from the text, then a link to that source will aid the user and is recommended.
* ISBN links do not need any extra markup, provided you use one of the indicated formats.
|
<pre><nowiki>
ISBN 012345678X

ISBN 0-12-345678-X
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Text mentioning RFC 4321 anywhere

* Link to [[Internet Engineering Task Force]] [[RFC]]s.
|
<pre><nowiki>
Text mentioning RFC 4321 anywhere
</nowiki></pre>

|- valign=top
|
Date formats:
# [[July 20]], [[1969]]
# [[20 July]] [[1969]]
# [[1969]]-[[07-20]]
# [[1969-07-20]]

* Link dates in one of the above formats, so that everyone can set their own display order. If [[Special:Userlogin|logged in]], you can use [[Special:Preferences]] to change your own date display setting.
* All of the above dates will appear as "[[20 July|20 July]] [[1969|1969]]" if you set your date display preference to "15 January 2001", but as "[[20 July|July 20]], [[1969|1969]]" if you set it to "January 15, 2001", or as "[[1969|1969]]-[[July 20|07-20]]" if you set it to "2001-01-15".
|
<pre><nowiki>
Date formats:
# [[July 20]], [[1969]]
# [[20 July]] [[1969]]
# [[1969]]-[[07-20]]
# [[1969-07-20]]

</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Special [[WP:AO]] links like [[As of 2006|this year]]
needing future maintenance
|
<pre><nowiki>
Special [[WP:AO]] links like [[As of 2006|this year]]
needing future maintenance
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
[[media:Sg_mrob.ogg|Sound]]

*To include links to non-image uploads such as sounds, use a "media" link. For images, [[#Images|see next section]].

Some uploaded sounds are listed at [[Wikipedia:Sound]].
|
<pre><nowiki>
[[media:Sg_mrob.ogg|Sound]]
</nowiki></pre>
|}

===Images===
Only images that have been uploaded to Wikipedia can be used. To upload images, use the [[Special:Upload|upload page]]. You can find the uploaded image on the [[Special:Imagelist|image list]].

{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- valign="top"
|A picture:
[[Image:wiki.jpg]]
|<pre>A picture:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.jpg]]</nowiki></pre>

|- valign="top"
|With alternative text:
[[Image:wiki.jpg|jigsaw globe]]
|<pre>With alternative text:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.jpg|jigsaw globe]]</nowiki></pre>
* Alternative text, used when a mouse hovers over the image or when the image is not loaded in a text-only browser, or when spoken aloud, is '''strongly''' encouraged. See [[Wikipedia:Alternate text for images|Alternate text for images]] for help on choosing it.

|- valign="top"
|Floating to the right side of the page and with a caption:
[[Image:wiki.jpg|frame|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]] 
|<pre>Floating to the right side of the page
and with a caption:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.jpg|frame|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]</nowiki></pre>
* The frame tag automatically floats the image right.
* The caption is also used as alternate text.

|- valign="top"
|Floating to the right side of the page ''without'' a caption:
[[Image:wiki.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]
|<pre>Floating to the right side of the page
''without'' a caption:
<nowiki>[[Image:wiki.jpg|right|Wikipedia Encyclopedia]]</nowiki></pre>
* The help topic on [[En:Wikipedia:Extended image syntax|Extended image syntax]] explains more options.

|- valign="top"
|Linking directly to the description page of an image:
[[:Image:wiki.jpg]]
|<pre>Linking directly to the description page
of an image:
<nowiki>[[:Image:wiki.jpg]]</nowiki></pre>
* Clicking on an image displayed on a page
(such as any of the ones above)
also leads to the description page

|- valign="top"
|Linking directly to an image without displaying it:
[[media:wiki.jpg|Image of the jigsaw globe logo]]
|<pre>Linking directly to an image
without displaying it:
<nowiki>[[media:wiki.jpg|Image of the jigsaw globe logo]]</nowiki></pre>
* To include links to images shown as links instead of drawn on the page, use a "media" link.

|- valign="top"
|Using the div tag to separate images from text (note that this may allow images to cover text):
|<pre><nowiki>Example:
<div style="display:inline;
width:220px; float:right;">
Place images here </div></nowiki></pre>

|- valign="top"
|Using wiki markup to make a table in which to place a vertical column of images (this helps edit links match headers, especially in Firefox browsers):
|<pre><nowiki>Example: {| align=right
|-
|
Place images here
|}
</nowiki></pre>

|}

See the Wikipedia's [[Wikipedia:Image use policy|image use policy]] as a guideline used on Wikipedia.

For further help on images, including some more versatile abilities, see the topic on [[En:Wikipedia:Extended image syntax|Extended image syntax]].

===Character formatting===
{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|- valign="top"
! What it looks like
! What you type
|- id="emph" valign="top"
|
''Emphasized text'' '''Strong emphasis'''
|
<pre><nowiki>
''Emphasized text''
'''Strong emphasis'''
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
A typewriter font for <tt>monospace text</tt>
or for computer code: <code>int main()</code>

* For semantic reasons, using <code><code></code> where applicable is preferable to using <code><tt></code>.
|
<pre><nowiki>
A typewriter font for <tt>monospace text</tt>
or for computer code: <code>int main()</code>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can use small text for captions.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can use small text for captions.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
Better stay away from <big>big text</big>, unless
 it's <big>within</big> small text.
|
<pre><nowiki>
Better stay away from <big>big text</big>, unless
 it's <big>within</big> small text.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
You can <s>strike out deleted material</s>
and underline new material.

You can also mark <del>deleted material</del> and
<ins>inserted material</ins> using logical markup.
For backwards compatibility better combine this
potentially ignored new <del>logical</del> with
the old <s><del>physical</del></s> markup.

* When editing regular Wikipedia articles, just make your changes and do not mark them up in any special way.
* When editing your own previous remarks in talk pages, it is sometimes appropriate to mark up deleted or inserted material.
|
<pre><nowiki>
You can <s>strike out deleted material</s>
and underline new material.

You can also mark <del>deleted material</del> and
<ins>inserted material</ins> using logical markup.
For backwards compatibility better combine this
potentially ignored new <del>logical</del> with
the old <s><del>physical</del></s> markup.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Suppressing interpretation of markup:'''
 
<nowiki>Link → (''to'') the [[Wikipedia FAQ]]</nowiki>
* Used to show literal data that would otherwise have special meaning.
* Escape all wiki markup, including that which looks like HTML tags.
* Does not escape HTML character references.
* To escape HTML character references such as <tt>&rarr;</tt> use <tt>&amp;rarr;</tt>
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
<nowiki>Link &rarr; (''to'')
the [[Wikipedia FAQ]]</nowiki>
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Commenting page source:'''
 
''not shown when viewing page''
* Used to leave comments in a page for future editors.
* Note that most comments should go on the appropriate [[Wikipedia:Talk page|Talk page]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>

</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Diacritical marks:'''
 
À Á Â Ã Ä Å 
Æ Ç È É Ê Ë 
Ì Í
Î Ï Ñ Ò 
Ó Ô Õ
Ö Ø Ù 
Ú Û Ü ß
à á 
â ã ä å æ
ç 
è é ê ë ì í 
î ï ñ ò ó ô 
&oelig; õ
ö ø ù ú 
û ü ÿ

* See [[meta:Help:Special characters|special characters]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&Agrave; &Aacute; &Acirc; &Atilde; &Auml; &Aring;
&AElig; &Ccedil; &Egrave; &Eacute; &Ecirc; &Euml;
&Igrave; &Iacute; &Icirc; &Iuml; &Ntilde; &Ograve;
&Oacute; &Ocirc; &Otilde; &Ouml; &Oslash; &Ugrave;
&Uacute; &Ucirc; &Uuml; &szlig; &agrave; &aacute;
&acirc; &atilde; &auml; &aring; &aelig; &ccedil;
&egrave; &eacute; &ecirc; &euml; &igrave; &iacute;
&icirc; &iuml; &ntilde; &ograve; &oacute; &ocirc;
&oelig; &otilde; &ouml; &oslash; &ugrave; &uacute;
&ucirc; &uuml; &yuml;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Punctuation:'''
 
¿ ¡ § ¶ 
&dagger; &Dagger; • – — 
&lsaquo; &rsaquo; « » 
‘ ’ “ ”
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&iquest; &iexcl; &sect; &para;
&dagger; &Dagger; &bull; &ndash; &mdash;
&lsaquo; &rsaquo; &laquo; &raquo;
&lsquo; &rsquo; &ldquo; &rdquo;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Commercial symbols:'''
 
™ © ® ¢ € ¥ 
£ ¤
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&trade; &copy; &reg; &cent; &euro; &yen;
&pound; &curren;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Subscripts:'''
 
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x₀ x₁ x₂ x₃ x₄
 
x₅ x₆ x₇ x₈ x₉

'''Superscripts:'''
 
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x⁰ x¹ x² x³ x⁴
 
x⁵ x⁶ x⁷ x⁸ x⁹

*The latter methods of sub/superscripting cannot be used in the most general context, as they rely on Unicode support which may not be present on all users' machines. For the 1-2-3 superscripts, it is nevertheless preferred when possible (as with units of measurement) because most browsers have an easier time formatting lines with it.

ε0 =
8.85 × 10−12
C² / J m.

1 [[hectare]] = [[1 E4 m²]]
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x&#8320; x&#8321; x&#8322; x&#8323; x&#8324;
 
x&#8325; x&#8326; x&#8327; x&#8328; x&#8329;
</nowiki></pre>

<pre><nowiki>
x1 x2 x3 or
 
x&#8304; x&sup1; x&sup2; x&sup3; x&#8308;
 
x&#8309; x&#8310; x&#8311; x&#8312; x&#8313;

&epsilon;0 =
8.85 &times; 10&minus;12
C&sup2; / J m.

1 [[hectare]] = [[1 E4 m&sup2;]]
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Greek characters:'''
 
α β γ δ ε ζ 
η θ ι κ λ μ ν 
ξ ο π ρ σ &sigmaf; 
τ υ φ χ ψ ω 
Γ Δ Θ Λ Ξ Π 
Σ Φ Ψ Ω
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&alpha; &beta; &gamma; &delta; &epsilon; &zeta;
&eta; &theta; &iota; &kappa; &lambda; &mu; &nu;
&xi; &omicron; &pi; &rho; &sigma; &sigmaf;
&tau; &upsilon; &phi; &chi; &psi; &omega;
&Gamma; &Delta; &Theta; &Lambda; &Xi; &Pi;
&Sigma; &Phi; &Psi; &Omega;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Mathematical characters:'''
 
∫ ∑ ∏ √ − ± ∞ 
≈ &prop; &equiv; ≠ ≤ ≥ 
× · ÷ ∂ ′ ″ 
∇ &permil; ° &there4; &alefsym; ø 
∈ ∉ ∩ ∪ ⊂ ⊃ &sube; &supe; 
¬ &and; &or; ∃ ∀ ⇒ ⇔ 
→ ↔ 
* See also [[Wikipedia:WikiProject Mathematics|WikiProject Mathematics]].
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
&int; &sum; &prod; &radic; &minus; &plusmn; &infin;
&asymp; &prop; &equiv; &ne; &le; &ge;
&times; &middot; &divide; &part; &prime; &Prime;
&nabla; &permil; &deg; &there4; &alefsym; &oslash;
&isin; &notin; &cap; &cup; &sub; &sup; &sube; &supe;
&not; &and; &or; &exist; &forall; &rArr; &hArr;
&rarr; &harr;
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
<math>\sin x + \ln y</math> 
sin''x'' + ln''y''


<math>\mathbf{x} = 0</math> 
'''x''' = 0

Ordinary text should use [[#emph|wiki markup for emphasis]], and should not use <code></code> or <code></code>. However, mathematical formulas often use italics, and sometimes use bold, for reasons unrelated to emphasis. Complex formulas should use [[Help:Formula|<code><math></code> markup]], and simple formulas may use <code><math></code>; or <code></code> and <code></code>; or <code><nowiki>''</nowiki></code> and <code><nowiki>'''</nowiki></code>. According to [[Wikipedia:WikiProject Mathematics#Italicization and bolding|WikiProject Mathematics]], wiki markup is preferred over HTML markup like <code></code> and <code></code>.
|
<pre><nowiki>
<math>\sin x + \ln y</math>
sin''x'' + ln''y''

<math>\mathbf{x} = 0</math>
'''x''' = 0
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Spacing in simple math formulas:'''
 
Obviously, ''x''² ≥ 0 is true.
*To space things out without allowing line breaks to interrupt the formula, use non-breaking spaces: <tt>&nbsp;</tt>.
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
Obviously, ''x''&sup2;&nbsp;&ge;&nbsp;0 is true.
</nowiki></pre>
|- valign="top"
|
'''Complicated formulas:'''
 
: <math>\sum_{n=0}^\infty \frac{x^n}{n!}</math>
* See [[Help:Formula]] for how to use <tt><math></tt>.
* A formula displayed on a line by itself should probably be indented by using the colon (:) character.
|
 
<pre><nowiki>
: <math>\sum_{n=0}^\infty \frac{x^n}{n!}</math>
</nowiki></pre>
|}
''(see also: [[Chess symbols in Unicode]])''

===None or limited Formatting - showing exactly what is being typed===

A few different kinds of formatting will tell the Wiki to display things as you typed them - what you see, is what you get!

{| border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
! style="width:8em" |
!What it looks like
!What you type
|-
|'''<nowiki> tags'''
|
<nowiki>
The nowiki tag ignores [[Wiki]] ''markup''.
It reformats text by removing newlines and multiple spaces.
It still interprets special characters: →
</nowiki>
|<pre><nowiki>
<nowiki>
The nowiki tag ignores [[Wiki]] ''markup''.
It reformats text by removing newlines and multiple spaces.
It still interprets special characters: &rarr;
</nowiki>
</nowiki></pre>
|-
|'''<pre> tags'''
|
<pre>
The pre tag ignores [[Wiki]] ''markup''.
It also doesn't reformat text.
It still interprets special characters: →
</pre>
|<pre><nowiki>
<pre>
The pre tag ignores [[Wiki]] ''markup''.
It also doesn't reformat text.
It still interprets special characters: &rarr;
</pre>
</nowiki></pre>
|-
|'''Leading spaces'''
|
Leading spaces are another way to preserve formatting.

Putting a space at the beginning of each line
stops the text from being reformatted. It still
interprets [[Wiki]] ''markup'' and special
characters: →
|<pre><nowiki>
Leading spaces are another way to preserve formatting.

Putting a space at the beginning of each line
stops the text from being reformatted. It still
interprets [[Wiki]] ''markup'' and special
characters: &rarr;
</nowiki></pre>
|}

=== Table of Contents ===

At the current status of the wiki markup language, having at least four headers on a page triggers the TOC to appear in front of the first header (or after introductory sections). Putting <nowiki>__TOC__</nowiki> anywhere forces the TOC to appear at that point (instead of just before the first header). Putting <nowiki>__NOTOC__</nowiki> anywhere forces the TOC to disappear. See also [[Wikipedia:Section#Compact_TOC|compact TOC]] for alphabet and year headings.


===Tables===
There are two ways to build tables:
*in special Wiki-markup (see [[Help:Table]])
*with the usual HTML elements: <table>, <tr>, <td> or <th>.

For the latter, and a discussion on when tables are appropriate, see [[Wikipedia:How to use tables]].

===Variables===
''(See also [[Help:Variable]])''
{|
|-
! Code
! Effect
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTWEEK}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTWEEK}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDOW}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDOW}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTH}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTMONTH}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}</nowiki>
| {{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}</nowiki>
| {{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDAY}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDAY}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTDAYNAME}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTDAYNAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTYEAR}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTYEAR}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{CURRENTTIME}}</nowiki> || {{CURRENTTIME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}</nowiki>
| {{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{PAGENAME}}</nowiki> || {{PAGENAME}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{NAMESPACE}}</nowiki> || {{NAMESPACE}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{REVISIONID}}</nowiki> || {{REVISIONID}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{localurl:pagename}}</nowiki>
| {{localurl:pagename}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{localurl:</nowiki>''Wikipedia:Sandbox''<nowiki>|action=edit}}</nowiki>
| {{localurl:Wikipedia:Sandbox|action=edit}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{fullurl:pagename}}</nowiki>
| {{fullurl:pagename}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{fullurl:pagename|</nowiki>''query_string''<nowiki>}}</nowiki>
| {{fullurl:pagename|query_string}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{SERVER}}</nowiki> || {{SERVER}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:1}}</nowiki> || {{ns:1}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:2}}</nowiki> || {{ns:2}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:3}}</nowiki> || {{ns:3}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:4}}</nowiki> || {{ns:4}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:5}}</nowiki> || {{ns:5}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:6}}</nowiki> || {{ns:6}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:7}}</nowiki> || {{ns:7}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:8}}</nowiki> || {{ns:8}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:9}}</nowiki> || {{ns:9}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:10}}</nowiki> || {{ns:10}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:11}}</nowiki> || {{ns:11}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:12}}</nowiki> || {{ns:12}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:13}}</nowiki> || {{ns:13}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:14}}</nowiki> || {{ns:14}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{ns:15}}</nowiki> || {{ns:15}}
|-
| <nowiki>{{SITENAME}}</nowiki> || {{SITENAME}}
|}

'''NUMBEROFARTICLES''' is the number of pages in the main namespace which contain a link and are not a redirect, in other words number of articles, stubs containing a link, and disambiguation pages.

'''CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN''' is the genitive (possessive) grammatical form of the month name, as used in some languages; '''CURRENTMONTHNAME''' is the nominative (subject) form, as usually seen in English.

In languages where it makes a difference, you can use constructs like <nowiki>{{grammar:case|word}}</nowiki> to convert a word from the nominative case to some other case. For example, <nowiki>{{grammar:genitive|{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}}}</nowiki> means the same as <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}</nowiki>. 

===Templates===
The [[Wikipedia:MediaWiki|MediaWiki]] software used by Wikipedia has support for templates. This means standardized text chunks (such as [[Wikipedia:Template messages|boilerplate]] text) can be inserted into articles. For example, typing {{tl|stub}} will appear as "''This article is a [[Wikipedia:Stub|stub]]. You can help Wikipedia by [[Wikipedia:Stub|expanding it]].''" when the page is saved. See [[Wikipedia:Template messages]] for the complete list. Other commonly used templates are: {{tl|disambig}} for disambiguation pages, {{tl|spoiler}} for spoiler warnings and {{tl|sectstub}} like an article stub but for a section. There are many subject-specific stubs for example: {{tl|Geo-stub}}, {{tl|Hist-stub}}, and {{tl|Linux-stub}}. For a complete list of stubs see [[WP:WSS/ST]].

===Hiding the edit links===
Insert '''<nowiki>__NOEDITSECTION__</nowiki>''' into the document to suppress the edit links that appear next to every section header.

Bird feeder basics

2006-03-17T08:40:35Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Wildlife]]

Bird Feeder Basics

Author: Louise Desmarteau

Bird Feeders The fastest way to a bird's heart is definitely through their stomach. Put up a backyard bird feeder and birds will certainly come to feed in your yard. Where you live
determines what you'll see because of differences in birds' range and habitat preferences. As words spread about your feeder, the kinds of birds and the size of crowd will increase. Even if you live in the city where it seems pigeons and house sparrows are the only birds on earth, you'll get surprise visitors that find your food or stop in on migration.

Bird Feeder Basics When you shop for bird feeders, you'll find your choices are almost limitless. You may wonder how to decide what to buy. Here are some hints.

Ease of use - The most important factor in choosing a feeder is how easy it is to use - for both the owner and the birds. You want a feeder that's easy to fill and that holds a reasonable amount of seed. If you are just getting started, look for a feeder that displays seed in full view because birds are attracted by the sight of food and by the sight of other birds eating. An open tray is great for starters.

Make sure your bird feeder has plenty of room for birds to eat without protrusions or decorations getting in the way. Birds also like a feeder with a raised ledge or perch that they can grasp while eating.

Size - When birds come to a bird feeder, they want food, and they want it fast. Choose a main tray feeder that's big enough for at least a dozen birds to eat at once. Supplement that with hopper- and tube-type bird feeders. Domed feeders are great for small birds like Blue Tits. Feeders inside wire cages give small birds a place to eat and peace without competition from starlings or other larger birds. Once you have one or two large bird feeder you can add as many smaller feeders as you like.

Quality - Make sure your bird feeder is well made. A sturdy, simple, but beautiful feeder costs more than you'd think.

A must have for any backyard is a simple wooden tray feeder. It's big, it's easy to fill, and it accommodates several birds. The other feeders pick up the overflow and they can be stocked with treats. Cardinals, finches, jays, grosbeaks, bluebirds, blackbirds,
nuthatches, chickadees, titmice, and buntings all prefer an open tray feeder. The only birds reluctant to use a tray feeder mounted on a post are ground-feeding birds. A very low tray on stumped legs will accommodate these birds, which include native sparrows,
quail, towhees, and doves. You can put any kind of seed in a tray except for small Niger, lettuce, and grass seeds, which are prone to blow away or get wasted. Platform feeders are also good places to put out doughnuts, bread crumbs and fruit.

Platform feeders with a roof are often called fly-through feeders. One problem with tray feeders is that plenty of seed gets kicked to the ground. Adding raised edges to a platform feeder transforms it into tray feeder.

Tray feeders can be hung. A popular hanging model, the Droll Yankees X-l Seed saver is protected by a dome to keep seed dry and prevent squirrels from raiding. This feeder works especially well as a mealworm feeder.

Hopper-style bird feeders with plastic or glass enclosures that dole out seed as they're needed, are an efficient choice because seed is used as needed and large amounts aren't exposed to wet or snowy weather, or kicked out by scratching birds. Many birds, including chickadees, nuthatches, titmice, cardinals, jays, and woodpeckers, eat eagerly at a hopper feeder. Make sure the tray of a hopper-style bird feeder
has enough room for more than two or three birds to gather and eat, and check to see if the feeder will be easy to clean if seed spoils in bad weather. Be especially careful if you mount your hopper feeder permanently in the garden. If the hopper or frame blocks the tray, the feeder may be very hard to clean.

Hopper feeders are not always rectangular. They can be many-sided or tubular, resembling a gazebo, lantern, or silo, and may be called by those names. A popular round hopper design is the Sky Cafe by Arundale, a hanging feeder made entirely of
clear polycarbonate. The hopper and feeding platform are protected by a large, steeply sloped hood designed to detour squirrels. The idea of a large dome above a feeder to protect it from squirrels is incorporated in a number of feeder designs, including Droll Yankees' Big Top.

One of the most significant innovations in hopper feeders has been the "squirrel-proof" models created by Heritage Farms, such as The Absolute II. Birds must sit on a rail to reach the seed tray. The rail has a counterweight that can be adjusted so that a squirrel's weight or that of a jay or blackbird will cause the shield to lower in front of the tray.

Perfect for holding shelled peanuts wire-mesh feeders are fun to watch. Blue jays, woodpeckers, and chickadees can cling to the mesh and pick seeds out one at a time. Squirrels can pick seeds too, but one seed at a time can be painfully slow. Wire-mesh
feeders work equally well dispensing black oil sunflower seeds and most other larger seeds. Small, round millet grains pour through the openings and are not a good choice for these feeders.

Most commercial wire-mesh feeders are tubular, but some are shaped like hoppers and may be attached to a platform where birds can perch to feed, rather than having to cling to the mesh.

Mesh bags, often called thistle socks, are also available for dispensing Niger seed. Refillable socks made of fabric and disposable ones made of plastic are available. Squirrels or rain can quickly ruin thistle socks, so hang them in a protected place.

Years ago, before the fancyscreens and storm windows, many people simply scattered ahandful of crumbs or seeds for the birds on their windowsills. You can mount a simple shallow tray feeder on the outside of a window, mounting it like a window box (but higher and closer to the pane). You can use wooden or metal brackets that attach
below the sill or on the sill. Perfect for kids and indoor cats - many window feeders attach with suction cups. Typically made of clear plastic, models by Aspects, Duncraft and K-Feeders are among those available.

The most popular window feeders are made by the Birding Company. A one-way mirror allows the feeding activity to be observed while keeping the birds from being disturbed. The feeders need to be placed in a sunny spot for the one-way mirror to work. The feeder can be cleaned and food replaced from inside the house.

Simple tube feeders are a perfect example of form matching function.
They're self-contained, so seed stays dry; they hold a good quantity of seed, so they don't need refilling too often; and they can accommodate several birds at one time. Not all tube feeders are created equal though. You should invest a few extra dollars in the more expensive feeders such as Duncraft or Droll Yankees. The tube itself is sturdier, the feeding holes are designed better so there's less spillage or feeds as birds eat, and the heavier metal used on top and bottom makes the feeder much more stable. Being heavier they don't swing as easily in the wind scattering seed on the ground.

Tube feeders are welcomed by goldfinches, purple finches, pine siskins, chickadees, and house finches, who seem to know they can eat in peace there without being disturbed by the bigger birds. The size of the hole (port) determines whether you have a
feeder that should be filled with Niger, birdseed mix or sunflower seeds.

There are two styles of tube feeders. One is designed with small feeding ports for the tiny Niger seeds; the other has larger ports for such seeds as black oil sunflower, safflower, or mixed seed.

Not all tube feeders are cylinders. There are tube feeders with three, four, or more sides. It is the idea of feeding ports built into the elongated seed container that makes a feeder a tube feeder.

Droll Yankee feeders have a lifetime guarantee. Other variations include Perky Pet's Upside-Down Thistle Feeder. Perches are placed above the feeding ports so that seed can be accessed only by finches that can feed upside down, a design that excludes house finches.

Two or three tubes are sometimes ganged together, as the Opus Top Flight Triple Tube Feeder. With a total of 12 ports, it can feed more birds than a single tube, and it also has the option of being filled with a different seed type in each tube.

Most tube feeders are made of transparent plastic, but Vari-Craft makes particularly attractive tube feeders of white PVC. Ports are made of a hard plastic. A squirrel-proof model is available with stainless steel ports.

Most tube feeders can be fitted with round trays underneath that catch spillage from birds like finches, which are notoriously messy eaters. The tray serves double duty as a small platform feeder for such birds as cardinals and doves, which benefit from the slung seed.

Tube feeders are sometimes placed inside a wire-mesh cage for protection from squirrels. Cages also keep large birds like grackles from perching on a tray and reaching up to the feeder ports.

Sweet sugar water, or nectar, is a huge draw for hummingbirds. Put up a nectar feeder and you're practically guaranteed to get hummers. The birds search for red and deep orange-red flowers, and anything that color will bring them in for a closer look. Your nectar feeder may also attract other birds with a sweet tooth, including orioles, house
finches, and woodpeckers. In the wild these birds would satisfy that craving with real nectar from flowers, or a sip of sugary tree sap or fruit juice. The sugar boost gives them quick calories and the energy needed to live.

As with other bird feeders, look for a nectar feeder that's easy to fill and easy to clean. Make sure you can remove the base to clean out the feeding holes. Bee guards of gridded plastic over the feeder openings are a necessity unless you like to watch constant battles between wasps and hummingbirds.

Suet feeders are not nearly as complex as some seed feeders. They can be as simple as a mesh sack - the kind often used for onions and potatoes. Toss a chunk of raw suet in an empty mesh sack and hang it on a tree trunk or from a branch or pole.

A popular way of presenting suet is in homemade suet logs. Perches are not necessary and if used will attract grackles and starlings. Woodpeckers and small clinging birds can get a grip on the rough wood. Stuffed with suet, these logs have woodpeckers as regular visitors. Standing dead trees can be drilled and filled like giant suet logs. If meant to attract woodpeckers, a suet feeder is likely to be found most quickly if it is attached initially to a tree trunk. Once the woodpeckers have found it, the feeder can be moved to other spots and the birds will follow.

Suet cages are sometimes combined with bird feeders. Health Manufacturing makes a beautiful redwood hopper feeder with suet cages at either end, the Classic Suet 'n Seed Feeder. Woodlink makes a similar model with a copper roof.

Wildlife

2006-03-17T08:40:03Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Bird feeder basics]]

Potato Diseases

2006-03-17T08:21:10Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Pests, Diseases & Disorders]]

''Coutesy of North Dakota State University''

==Virus Diseases==
Certification readings are the best gauges of virus content. Virus symptoms are generally not visible in tubers, except for leaf roll, which causes net necrosis in certain cultivars, notably russets. Some varieties, notably Shepody and Russet Norkotah, do not readily express visible mosaic symptoms, and virus can be present without detection. Serological tests (ELISA) are often conducted for PVY mosaic in these varieties, either in the production or winter grow-out fields. Such tests are routinely used for PVX.

==Rhizoctonia==
The black scurf stage on the tubers should not exceed 5% of the tuber surface (Figure 1 – 47KB color photo). Coverage greater than this can result in yield and quality losses in the field. This disease is most active in cool soil and causes damage by pinching off the developing sprouts, which must regrow. This process delays emergence, lowers yield and increases off-grade tubers.

==Fusarium Dry Rot==
The seed should not have many tubers with symptoms of Fusarium dry rot (Figure 2 – 86KB color photo). A 1 to 2% level is reasonable and should not be exceeded in most years; federal regulations allow 1% dry rot at shipping. Fusarium inoculum on tubers without dry rot can be determined by cutting 20-30 tubers in half, placing them in a large paper bag or box, and shaking. Read dry rot after 10-14 days incubation at 50-60°F in high humidity. This will indicate the potential for Fusarium seed piece decay and the possible necessity for a seed treatment. In recent years, many isolates of Fusarium sambucinum (synonym = F. sulphureum), the agent responsible for dry rot, from throughout the US and Canada have become resistant to thiabendazole, the active ingredient in Mertect, resulting in reduced disease control. A modification of this test to determine resistance is to treat cut tubers with TBZ prior to incubating the seed in paper bags or boxes.

==Bacterial Ring Rot==
Look for external symptoms of cracks in the skin (Figure 3 – 59KB color photo); cut the stem end of suspect tubers for internal symptoms of ring rot. If no external symptoms are seen, cut the stem end of 100 or more tubers selected at random and look for characteristic ring rot discoloration in the vascular ring (Figure 3 – 91KB color photo). Because other diseases (Fusarium) or disorders (freeze injury) may resemble ring rot, squeeze suspect tubers and look for cloudy bacterial ooze from the vascular ring. Suspect tubers should be sent to a competent official for confirmation of ring rot. Do not use seed lots known to be infected with ring rot; seed lots with ring rot are not eligible for certification. The bacteria causing ring rot may be latent in a seed lot without causing symptoms for up to two years, and may be at such a low incidence as to avoid detection during visual inspections. Tests are available to index seed lots for the presence of latent ring rot bacteria. This testing can be done at the Seed Health Testing Lab at NDSU for a fee.

==Soft Rot/Blackleg==
If more than 1% of the tubers show symptoms of soft rot or tuber blackleg (Figure 4 – 61KB color photo), seed may have the potential for excessive seedpiece decay. Erwinia bacteria cause soft rot and wet seedpiece decay and can be latent. Because Erwinia can reside in the lenticels of the tuber, the number of tubers infested with (carrying) the bacterium gives an estimate of the potential for seed decay. This can be determined by wrapping 40-50 tubers in wet paper towels, and plastic wrap over that for 5-7 days at 50-60°F. A more severe test is to puncture 10 lenticels per tuber with a toothpick prior to wrapping. Soft rot should be odor free, mushy and wet but not sticky and stringy. A sticky, stringy decay with a bad odor indicates Clostridium decay and should not be scored. These tests will indicate the potential for soft rot seed piece decay if conditions are favorable for decay. Research results indicate that extra care is needed for seed lots with more than 50% tuber soft rot. If handled properly (see seed handling and planting recommendations), acceptable stands and yields can be obtained. Reducing bruising of seed during handling is the most important consideration for reducing soft rot in the seed.

==Verticillium and Fusarium==
These two fungal pathogens can cause wilt and early dying. They are easily visible as vascular discoloration in the stem end of the tuber (Figure 5 – 94KB color photo). Internally borne inoculum is not as important as inoculum on the surface of the tuber or in the soil. For the Red River Valley, the amount of Verticillium or Fusarium in the seed does not contribute greatly to the amount of wilt that results in the field. However, tuber borne inoculum does act as a source of Verticillium that will contaminate the soil.

==Scab==
This disease, caused by soil borne Streptomyces, is soil borne. Infected seed serves to introduce the scab organism into the field but does not provide inoculum for infected progeny tubers. Scab infection comes from scab in the soil, not the seed tubers. Excessively scabby seed is unattractive (Figure 6 – 54KB color photo).

==Silver Scurf==
This is primarily a seed-borne disease, although low levels of inoculum may survive in the soil from one season to the next. It is best to purchase seed with minimum amounts of visible scurf, but in reality, most seed lots have some silver scurf, and the disease may not be observed because many silver scurf lesions are too small to be seen. Silver scurf occurs as scattered golden/silver patches on the skin of the potato, primarily at the stem end (Figure 7 – 48KB color photo). The fungus causing silver scurf, Helminthosporium solani, sporulates on seedpieces shortly after planting and moves to progeny tubers during the growing season. Silver scurf-affected tubers are sources of inoculum in storage, and the disease spreads in storage, even at seed holding temperatures. Selection of disease-free seed is desirable, but impractical. The use of seed treatment fungicides is a better option for managing seed-borne inoculum.

==Late Bligh==t
Presence of late blight in seed can be serious and lead to epidemics later in the season. Late blight can overwinter in infected seed and appears as irregular purplish lesions externally (Figure 8 – 33KB color photo), and, if cut about 1/4 inch deep, as granular rust colored areas internally (Figure 9 – 36KB color photo). Late blight tubers do not break down when stored cold (38F) and can act as one source of blight in the field when planted. Greater than 90% of late blight affected seed tubers decay due to secondary soft rot in the field at planting, but the few infected seed pieces that grow can start an epidemic under favorable conditions. Preliminary research has shown that late blight can be spread during cutting which can lead to infected plants early in the season. Seed treatment fungicides have been shown to reduce this infection. Federal regulations allow 1% late blight at shipping. If late blight is suspected, send a sample to a competent pathologist for confirmation. Late blight free seed is the best option.

==Early Blight==
This is a soil-borne disease caused by Alternaria solani and is sometimes found in seed lots. It is not considered a seed-borne disease, but a severely infected seed lot may suffer stand and emergence problems due to secondary soft rot and dead eyes.

==Nematodes==
Generally not a serious problem in the Red River Valley. However, certain areas may contain nematodes and more surveys are necessary to determine economic importance. Seed infected with nematodes should not be planted. Planting of nematode infested seed can be the initial source of field infestation which will increase in future years and be difficult to control.

==Pink Rot and Leak==
Most seed affected by these diseases, collectively called water rots, usually decays during the storage season and does not persist until spring for planting. However, affected seed should be removed at grading and not planted. Affected seed is watery and has a pink to charcoal black discoloration. Application of metalaxyl in the field when tubers are nickel to quarter in size provides excellent control of these diseases.

==Planting==
The three main points of planting are: 1) get good seed, 2) handle it carefully, and 3) use cultural practices that encourage quick emergence. The following checklist of cultural practices to follow at planting seed potatoes will minimize disease and maximize emergence and stand:

seed and soil should be the same temperature; 50°F is optimum
avoid wet, soggy soils
handle seed gently
do everything possible to encourage quick emergence
plant shallow and hill plants as they emerge

Magic words

2006-03-15T09:20:50Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Wiki Commands]]

== <nowiki>#redirect</nowiki> ==
Indicates a [[Help:Redirect|redirect]]

== <nowiki>__NOTOC__</nowiki> ==
Hides the table of contents.

== <nowiki>__FORCETOC__</nowiki> ==
Always show the table of contents.

== <nowiki>__TOC__</nowiki> ==
Place the table of contents here.

== <nowiki>__NOEDITSECTION__</nowiki> ==
Hide the edit links.

== <nowiki>__START__</nowiki> ==
<nowiki>__START__</nowiki> does nothing, and it is considered a magic word only because it has an ID in <tt>MagicWord.php</tt> (<code>MAG_START</code>).

== <nowiki>CURRENTMONTH</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTMONTH}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTMONTHNAME</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTDAY</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTDAY}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTDAYNAME</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTDAYNAME}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTYEAR</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTYEAR}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTTIME</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTTIME}}

== <nowiki>NUMBEROFARTICLES</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{NUMBEROFARTICLES}}

== <nowiki>CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{CURRENTMONTHNAMEGEN}}

== <nowiki>PAGENAME</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{PAGENAME}}

== <nowiki>PAGENAMEE</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]]. Like PAGENAME but with full language expansion to URL safe coding; see [[w:ASCII|US-ASCII]]. If used in multiply-nested template, will be expanded in the context of the page you're actually looking at (the highest level page in the template stack); this is likely true for all magic words.

{{PAGENAMEE}}

== <nowiki>NAMESPACE</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{NAMESPACE}}

== <nowiki>MSG:</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Template|template]] modifier, i.e. <nowiki>{{msg:stub}}</nowiki> shows

<nowiki>{{Stub}}</nowiki>
----
The use of msg has an effect when a template name clashes with a magic word. For example, if <nowiki>[[Template:CURRENTMONTHNAME]]</nowiki> contained "Test", then <nowiki>{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}</nowiki> would display "{{CURRENTMONTHNAME}}" but <nowiki>{{msg:CURRENTMONTHNAME}}</nowiki> would display "Test".

== <nowiki>SUBST:</nowiki> ==
A template modifier. Replaces the reference to the template (e.g. <nowiki>{{subst:template}}</nowiki>) with the content of the template.

e.g. <nowiki>{{subst:stub}}</nowiki> copies the <nowiki>{{stub}}</nowiki> contents below to the article, without using the template.

''This article is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Stub stub]. You can [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Find_or_fix_a_stub help] Wikimedia by [http://en.wikipedia.org/w/wiki.phtml?title=Template:Stub&action=edit expanding it].''

SUBST: can be helpful to avoid the overuse of meta-templates.

== <nowiki>MSGNW:</nowiki> ==
A template modifier. Causes the template source to be pasted.

So <nowiki><pre>{{msgnw:stub}}</pre></nowiki> outputs:
----
<nowiki>{{msgnw:stub}}</nowiki>
----

== <nowiki>__END__</nowiki> ==
Allows for trailing whitespace to be deliberately included in the page save.

== <nowiki>INT:</nowiki> ==
A special [[Help:Template|template]]. Used for UI messages, works the same as "MediaWiki:".

<code><nowiki>{{INT:mainpage}}</nowiki></code> gives the content of [[MediaWiki:mainpage]]: 
{{INT:mainpage}}

== <nowiki>SITENAME</nowiki> ==
A [[Help:Variable|variable]].

{{SITENAME}}

Wiki Commands

2006-03-15T09:03:39Z

Mikeb:

*[[Main Page]]
*[[Magic words]]
*[[Image commands]]
*[[Text commands]]

Image Sandbox

2006-03-14T11:44:57Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Wiki Commands]]

==Gallery format==

<gallery>
image:Calabrese.jpg
image:Purple.jpg</gallery>

==Table format==

{|
|+'''Flowers'''
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Basil.jpg|thumb|left|150px,Basil]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Bartonia.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Balsam HHA.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]
|-
|
|-
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Acroclinium HA.jpg|thumb|left|100px|]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Achillea (Yarrow) HP.jpg|thumb|left|100px|,xxx]]
| valign="top"|
[[Image:Abutilon.jpg|thumb|left|50px|]]
|}

==More details and examples on embedding internal images into articles==

To include an uploaded image in a page, use a link in the form
<nowiki>[[image:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.jpg]]</nowiki> or <nowiki>[[image:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.png|</nowiki>''alt text''<nowiki>]]</nowiki>.
For uploaded sound files, you can include the download link in a page with <nowiki>[[media:</nowiki>''filename''<nowiki>.ogg]]</nowiki>.

'''Example:''' Using <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.png]]</nowiki>, the image Broccoli-thumbnail.png is included ([[Wiktionary:en:broccoli|broccoli]] is an edible vegetable):

[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg]]

If the wiki is set to another language than English, the name of the "Image:" namespace might be changed. For German, for example, it's <nowiki>[[Bild:Broccoli-thumbnail.png]]</nowiki>

===Alternate Text===
By specifying alternate text, you can make the article accessible to the blind, too. You can specify an alternate text after a "|"-sign, e.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.png|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki>, which will look like this:

[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]
===Layout and resizing===
[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|Canterbury Tales|80px|left|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]
Several options can be set when including an image. Those affect the placing of the image, its size or the way the image will be presented. The options are <tt>right</tt>, <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, <tt>none</tt>, <tt>''size''px</tt>, <tt>thumbnail</tt> (<tt>thumb</tt>), <tt>frame</tt>, and <tt>''alternate (caption) text''</tt>.

The options can be combined, and vertical bars ("|") are used to separate options from each other. The options can be put in any order. An unknown option is taken as the caption text. If there are two or more unknown options, the last one upstages the rest: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|Canterbury Tales|80px|left|A cartoon drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki>. This is shown on the left; the caption is "A cartoon drawing of broccoli", not "Canterbury Tales".{{clr}}

Here is the description of the options other than the caption text:

; <tt>right</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|70px|]]makes the image right-aligned, and text floats to the left: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).
; <tt>left</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|left|70px|]]The image is left aligned, and text floats to the right of the image: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|left|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left).{{clr}}
; <tt>center</tt> : The image is centered, and...[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|center|70px|]]the following text starts below it: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|center|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown above).{{clr}}
; <tt>none</tt> : The image is put at the left, and...[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|70px|]]the following text does not float to the right or (naturally) to the left, and starts below it: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown above).{{clr}}

:: '''Notes:'''
::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|right|center|left|70px|]]The above four options are incompatible. When used combined, the last one overrides the rest: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|none|right|center|left|70px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left).{{clr}}

::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|70px|right]]What is between the last vertical bar and the closing brackets ("]]"), void or not, is taken as the last option, and works as usual. For instance, when the last option is <tt>right</tt>, the image is right-aligned, and text floats to the left: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|70px|right]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}

::[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is not displayed.|70px|left|]][[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is displayed.|70px|right]]In particular, if the last option is the void text (that is, if there is nothing between the last vertical bar and the closing brackets), the caption is not displayed: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is not displayed.|70px|left|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left) and <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|This text is displayed.|70px|right]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}

; <tt>''size''px</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|]]renders a version of the image that's ''[size]'' pixels wide (e.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|]]</nowiki> shown on the right). Height is computed to keep [[En:aspect ratio (image)|aspect ratio]] (i.e. the shape of the image).{{clr}}

:: '''Note:''' [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|80px]]When there are two or more "size" options, only the last one is valid: <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|right|50px|80px]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}

; <tt>thumbnail</tt>, <tt>thumb</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumbnail|left|100px|]][[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|The Palace of Westminster]]The <tt>thumbnail</tt> (<tt>thumb</tt>) option generates a [[En:thumbnail|thumbnail]] image. It is automatically resized when the "size" attribute is not specified. Without the options <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, and <tt>none</tt>, the image is normally on the right. If the image has a caption text, it is displayed in the lower margin. E.g. <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumbnail|left|100px|]]</nowiki> (shown on the left) and <nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|thumb|The Palace of Westminster]]</nowiki> (shown on the right). {{clr}}
[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|right|thumb|100px|This is a globe, and take a look at it in [[Media:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|the actual size]]]]An "enlarge"-icon is put also in the lower margin of the thumbnail. Both the image itself and the icon link to the image description page with the image in its actual size. The icon shows the link title "Enlarge" in its hoverbox, even in cases where this term does not apply, because it leads from the enlarged image to the one with the actual size. E.g. <nowiki>[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|right|thumb|100px|This is a globe, and take a look at it in [[Media:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|the actual size]].]]</nowiki> (shown on the right).{{clr}}
; <tt>frame</tt> : [[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|frame|thumbnail|50px|A drawing of broccoli]]With this option, the embedded image is shown with its actual size enclosed by a frame, regardless of the "thumb" or "size" attribute, and the caption, if any, is visible in the frame. Without the options <tt>left</tt>, <tt>center</tt>, and <tt>none</tt>, the image is normally on the right: <tt><nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|frame|thumbnail|50px|A drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki></tt>.{{clr}}

With none of the options other than <tt>''size''px</tt> and <tt>''alternate (caption) text''</tt>, an embedded image is rendered inline. Note that the size of the inline images can be reduced but they can not be enlarged.

<pre>
text text text text text text
<nowiki>[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|150px|A drawing of broccoli]]</nowiki>
text text text text text
<nowiki>[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|100px|This is a globe.]]</nowiki>
text text text text
</pre>

gives

text text text text text text
[[Image:Broccoli-thumbnail.jpg|150px|A drawing of broccoli]]
text text text text text
[[Image:The Earth seen from Apollo 17.jpg|100px|This is a globe.]]
text text text text

Z

2006-03-14T10:54:39Z

Mikeb:

[[Main Page]]

[[Non edible plants]]

[[Flowers]]

[[A]] [[B]] [[C]] [[D]] [[E]] [[F]] [[G]] [[H]] [[I]] [[J]] [[K]] [[L]] [[M]] [[N]] [[O]] [[P]] [[Q]] [[R]] [[S]] [[T]] [[U]] [[V]] [[W]] [[X]] [[Y]] [[Z]]

Y

2006-03-14T10:54:31Z

Mikeb:

X

2006-03-14T10:54:23Z

Mikeb:

W

2006-03-14T10:54:03Z

Mikeb:

V

2006-03-14T10:53:55Z

Mikeb:

U

2006-03-14T10:53:48Z

Mikeb:

T

2006-03-14T10:53:40Z

Mikeb:

S

2006-03-14T10:53:33Z

Mikeb:

R

2006-03-14T10:53:24Z

Mikeb:

Q

2006-03-14T10:53:17Z

Mikeb:

P

2006-03-14T10:53:09Z

Mikeb:

O

2006-03-14T10:53:00Z

Mikeb:

N

2006-03-14T10:52:46Z

Mikeb:

M

2006-03-14T10:52:37Z

Mikeb:

L

2006-03-14T10:52:29Z

Mikeb:

K

2006-03-14T10:52:17Z

Mikeb:

J

2006-03-14T10:52:09Z

Mikeb:

I

2006-03-14T10:52:01Z

Mikeb:

H

2006-03-14T10:51:53Z

Mikeb:

G

2006-03-14T10:51:44Z

Mikeb:

F

2006-03-14T10:51:35Z

Mikeb:

E

2006-03-14T10:51:26Z

Mikeb: