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Wobbly fork

Started by PJW_Letchworth, March 17, 2008, 21:32:15

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PJW_Letchworth

I wonder if anyone can help and suggest?

My fork has developed a wobbly handle which I'd like to say is because of excessive use ;) but I think it may be due to the wood drying out.  It looks like the wooden handle has shrunk inside the stainless steel fork and it is pivoting on the pin.  I've tried putting water in the gap to make the wood swell, but this doesn't last very long.  I keep my fork in the boot of my car so it's not going from a hot, dry environment to cold.

Any ideas what I can do to stop the wobble?  It's not so bad that it stops me using the fork, it's just annoying and I don't want to cause an damage by using it.

Thanks,

Phill. ‹(•¿•)›
"I will be really pleased when I've had enough of this"

PJW_Letchworth

"I will be really pleased when I've had enough of this"

DenBee

Well as a joiner's daughter, I'd suggest shimming it.

That means you get narrow tapers of wood and push them into the gap to wedge it all into place.

But that's theoretically speaking.  I'm very good at theory, but no doubt someone with a lot more practical experience will be along in a minute with a probably far more sensible suggestion.  ;)
Tread softly, for you tread on my greens.

Uncle Joshua

Maybe worth buying a new handle?

PJW_Letchworth

Thanks DenBee, I'm not sure the gap will be big enough to put a piece down the side, but I'll take another look.  I was wondering if I should try and soak the joint in linseed oil or something similar.  The idea being it will not dry out as quickly as water.
"I will be really pleased when I've had enough of this"

debster

gosh as this is in edible plants i thought it was some kind of shrub ! :-[

redimp

Quote from: DenBee on March 17, 2008, 21:36:27
Well as a joiner's daughter
There must be a joke in that somewhere.

I treat my handles regularly with Danish oil to stop this happening.  In fact, they are due another treatment this month.
Lotty @ Lincoln (Lat:53.24, Long:-0.52, HASL:30m)

http://www.abicabeauty

DenBee

Quote from: redclanger on March 17, 2008, 21:50:24
There must be a joke in that somewhere.

I can think of at least 2 or 3.  And they'd probably all get me banned.  :o
Tread softly, for you tread on my greens.

Vortex

Were it me I'd drill or drive out the pin, cut an inch off the pointy end, shave down the handle, knock it back onto the head, drill a new hole and re-rivet using a cut wire nail. Saves buying a new handle when it isn't broken. It'll also be more secure and better lasting than shimming it. I keep my tools in my shed at home where the air remains at least 18% humidity.

ninnyscrops

I see a new dibber in the making for huge leeks  ;D
If I ever get it all right - then that's the time to quit.

sheddie

I agree! - sounds like you have a nice new dibber and a new handle is needed! ;D
When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.

Eristic

Before you do anything else make sure the rivit/s are in good condition. Sometimes these problems can be solved with a big hammer.

Well as a joiner's daughter
she new she didne aughter.
But with joiner away
She had a great day,
Until her mother caught her.

kenkew

You could follow Vortex's idea providing the rest of the handle is in good condition, but a new handle might be the best long term solution.

A joiner's daughter is happy and gay....

(rest of it is in the 'Watershed'...!)

djbrenton

Quote from: Eristic on March 18, 2008, 02:06:20
Before you do anything else make sure the rivit/s are in good condition. Sometimes these problems can be solved with a big hammer.


I find most problems can be solved with a big hammer.

rbull

Warm it all up gently until it feels quite warm, say 40-50C, then mix up some epoxy resin and keeping ithe fork vertical, run it as best you can into the gap.  Wait for it to set for 24 hours if using the slow-setting stuff.

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