sick tips on James Grieve apple tree

[peanuts]

We have a James Grieve apple tree on dwarf stock, planted 10 years ago.  It gives a good harvest usually.  But some springs (not every one), after the blossom has set, many of the new tips go floppy and then turn brown and die.  The weather has been fairly standard, not particularly cold, or dry or wet.  I've attached some photos.  Should I cut them off immediately I see the problem?  What might be the cause?  Any other advice?   Thank you!

[peanuts]

[peanuts]

two more photos

[Tee Gee]

I am no expert but my first thoughts were; What is your pruning routine?

I ask because the most affected branches seem to me on long leaders which do not look as if they have been cut back to the " basal cluster"

Up here in the wild and woolly north we call these long growths"water wood" so the clue is in this name. My guess is this softwood has been hit by frost.

I haven't had this problem with my apple trees but I have had it with my Hydrangeas,that is the tip growth has been affected by frost.

As I said " I am no expert" but from what I can see this is the best suggestion I have to offer!

[peanuts]

Good question, Tee Gee!  And you're right in observing that we don't really have a pruning routine!  This tree never grows that strongly, unlike all the other fruit trees, so we are gentle with it.  However, there hasn't been any frost for a month, so I wouldn't have thought that was the problem.  It has been looking in the peak of health, full of blossom.  Then some tips, not only the ones less protected, start to go floppy, and then brown and dead.  And it is only this tree that is affected.  Other older apple trees nearby, and a  similar age bramley that we planted at the same time are never affected. 

[Tee Gee]

Looking at the affected areas it would seem that only the long spindly growths are affected. Add  to that there are large leafless areas on each of these branches. Personally I would trace each of those branches back to the main branch they emanate from and cut them a couple of buds away from the said branch/s

I also think had these branches not bee affected in any way I would have thought they might have broken off had fruit grown on them.

My opinion........bite the bullet and cut them back......but as I said previously " I'm no fruit expert"

[peanuts]

Thank you again!  Will go out and follow your advice this morning! it's a sunny day here.

[ancellsfarmer]

Tee Gee, You are doubtlessly correct. I'm not an expert either, but pre '87 hurricane,  had a garden with 24 established apples, of assorted varieties.  Faced with the depicted tree, which has a good open situation,
I would : mow now, beneath the diameter of the tree, mulch with cardboard and apply 6" of woodchip(ideally pine , oak or non fruit) or bark chip.Remove any withered, or broken twigs.You may be inclined to feed the tree once you are not growing the grass!

In late July, identify all 'leggy' ,barren growth and remove. Cut back to a pair of buds. Clear all fallen fruit and leaves away from the tree.
In early January, view the tree from all sides and identify any damaged branches, any showing signs of canker. Mark with twine or wool. Also any branches that cross the tree through its centre. Create the classic "leave a space such as a blackbird needs to fly" through the tree.
These should be cut back to the trunk and the cuts painted with Arbrex or stockholm tar.
Consider all remaining branches and prune, ideally to the first two buds on last years new wood.These will likely develop into next years flower/fruit.
Review your work during the summer and repeat. It is unlikely that you will harm the tree, indeed, great improvements to both quality of fruit and subsequently ,quantity should result.
Remember, not every tree gives bountifully every year but proactive care surely helps.

[peanuts]

Wow, thank you for such helpful clear advice. All our apple trees, with the exception of this one, grow like the clappers down here.  Weeds similarly, and eg forsythia, which we have to cut back three times a year.  So we always find it hard to keep on top of the pruning.  But as you describe it, I can do that, and the tree is small enough to reach as well.  James Greve is my favourite apple, so we want to care for it properly.
Thank you for all the advice.

[peanuts]

Thought I'd post a couple of photos of our now pruned James Grieve, trying to follow the much appreciated advice from Ancellsfarmer.  it seems to look much better. 
Interestingly, it is now producing lots of blooms!

[woodypecks]

Many thanks for the excellent advice Ancellsfarmer ...I also need to sort out my Apple trees .